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Old 09-28-2015, 11:30 PM   #1
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Is there a way to turn off 6A DC charging from generator?

My Powertech works fine - producing 120vac for utilities and 12vdc to charge batteries simultaneously. Well, since I am using a lithium battery pack, I'd like to turn off the DC charging function but remain the 120vac portion. i tried to turn it off with the following tests:

1) Turn off battery master cut off, generator dies immediately
2) Turn off the Main Switch on generator, generator won't start
3) Turn any one of the two breakers, the generator stops producing 120vac as well as 12vdc.
4) In expectation of a fuse on Voltage Regulator, I checked, nothing from outside and inside is sealed.
5) There are two fuses on front and on the side of the control box. Pull them out one at a time, engine runs but no outputs.

I am at wit's end now. Does anyone know if it's feasible to do it to my liking? Please refer to the below schematic:

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Old 09-28-2015, 11:32 PM   #2
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Wire cutters or add a switch to cut it off.
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Old 09-28-2015, 11:44 PM   #3
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Wire cutters or add a switch to cut it off.
Thank you Mr D!! That could be a real option But not sure which wire/s can be cut on the above chart
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Old 09-29-2015, 07:46 AM   #4
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On your schematic it shows a gray wire connecting to optional "DC Alternator".

So first look for that wire.

When you find it or where it is connected at either end first start unit and verify charging voltage.

Next carefully disconnect it and tape it up then repeat test as well as confirming operation.

If genny works but no charging voltage then correct action.

Locate a suitable toggle switch of locking kind preferred as well as location to install it and place switch between where wire was and wire you disconnected so you have easy control for later.
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Old 09-29-2015, 09:34 AM   #5
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Sharp eyes, Tony!! Yeah the gray wire for DC Alt (funny the name being used ) is branched out from fuel pump wire. Great spot, I will dig in...
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Old 09-29-2015, 01:23 PM   #6
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Sharp eyes, Tony!! Yeah the gray wire for DC Alt (funny the name being used ) is branched out from fuel pump wire. Great spot, I will dig in...
I'm going to predict that your fuel pump doesn't work when you cut that wire.

I think you might find that a large diode on the other side of that Alternator (between the battery and alternator) might be a better option.
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Old 09-29-2015, 07:36 PM   #7
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Cut gray wire at alternator point of connection.

Opening it anyplace else could be issue as it is a supply buss line distributing power to supplemental items.

Locating the connection at the optional as drawn in the box above would be the place to disconnect the wire.

And as advised...Locate connection and test unit then disconnect and re test to be sure only the charging is now off.
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Old 09-29-2015, 11:10 PM   #8
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thank you again Old Bounder and Tony!!

i probed around during daytime. begin at the fuel pump, the wire is coming from one of the three relays (confusing why it is NC?). from there the wire was split into multiple wires to the bundle which i lost the trace. just re-read the schematic, i am now not sure if the power for fuel pump is from left rout (start from the red from the battery-->DC Alt-->Gray-->Gray), or from the right rout (red-->blue-->solenoid-->gray-->gray. the solenoid is for fuel cutoff). if it's latter, cutting off between DC Alt and the point it meets the gray line from right rout would be valid.

i also tried to get an idea from the battery end, well, two cables (2/0 gauge) are coming from behind the compartment. i will go under the vehicle to see if i can figure out where the connections are.
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Old 09-30-2015, 06:18 AM   #9
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Old Bounder, I actually like your idea of a diode. if i can get a large one, i mean a real large one like 200a at 12v, i would just connect it to the terminal of the battery; that would be much simpler. i actually don't need any source of electricity from the vehicle (alternator, generator and converter for grid power) to charge the battery as my solar provides enough inflow for it.

i googled heavy duty diodes and didn't get the results for the size of 175a or higher (the reason i need that high is - my battery outputs very close to 175a occasionally). any info on the diodes? thanks.

Edit: checked on ebay, a few from china, about $25 a piece.
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Old 09-30-2015, 08:13 AM   #10
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If this is not a portable generator then your diagram is less than complete. However there is a solution.

A large value capicator (Say one farad) on the generator side of the battery cut off switch may "Simulate" a battery well enough to keep it running. You can get these at high end automotive audio shops.

NOTE: I can not guarantee,, but it may work.

It may also trip a breaker or blow a fuse. (if it is too big) there is a way to prevent this.
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Old 09-30-2015, 11:07 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
If this is not a portable generator then your diagram is less than complete. However there is a solution.

A large value capicator (Say one farad) on the generator side of the battery cut off switch may "Simulate" a battery well enough to keep it running. You can get these at high end automotive audio shops.

NOTE: I can not guarantee,, but it may work.

It may also trip a breaker or blow a fuse. (if it is too big) there is a way to prevent this.
thanks. it's an onboard generator i got the schematic from the service manual. you remind me i should also look at the coach electrical diagrams on the section for generator. good point.

i will try the diode first; it's easy. if not working, i will look into the capacitor thing. regards.
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Old 09-30-2015, 12:30 PM   #12
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Old Bounder, I actually like your idea of a diode. if i can get a large one, i mean a real large one like 200a at 12v, i would just connect it to the terminal of the battery; that would be much simpler. i actually don't need any source of electricity from the vehicle (alternator, generator and converter for grid power) to charge the battery as my solar provides enough inflow for it.

i googled heavy duty diodes and didn't get the results for the size of 175a or higher (the reason i need that high is - my battery outputs very close to 175a occasionally). any info on the diodes? thanks.

Edit: checked on ebay, a few from china, about $25 a piece.
You don't need a high current diode. The only current passing through the diode will be the low draw for/from the fuel pump. Just because your system is capable of producing 175 amps, doesn't mean it can send that high current to a load that isn't requesting it. This diode may work quite well.
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Old 09-30-2015, 01:01 PM   #13
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You don't need a high current diode. The only current passing through the diode will be the low draw for/from the fuel pump. Just because your system is capable of producing 175 amps, doesn't mean it can send that high current to a load that isn't requesting it. This diode may work quite well.
since i couldn't determine which wire is at the "optional dc alt" toward the battery (the harness is kinda messy, bundled or loose), to sort them out is a challenge. so i am thinking just to use one big diode at the battery lead to block any charging from generator, alternator or converter/inverter for good. currently i manually turn off charging from alternator and converter. blocking all three sources works better for me i think.

the other way around - when inverter comes to work, sometimes it draws big, near 175a. that is the reason i am looking at the big one at 200a or up. making sense?

on ebay, i saw this Powerex 1N3737R Standard Diode 250A 300V do 9 | eBay. any good?
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Old 09-30-2015, 03:33 PM   #14
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In the tin box on the Powertech generator there should be a gizmo called the DC Rectifier.

Evidently that produces the DC charge for my dedicated generator battery.

Since my Inverter also charges that battery, I elected not to have the DC Rectifier replaced at a cost of $130 for the part about 5 years ago. It appeared to be a redundant feature in my case.

The generator shop did not argue with my logic.

So, if you can find that component in your electronics box, perhaps you could disable its connection and maybe achieve your goal.
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