Itasca Basement AC

[rjfox]

2006 Itasca Basement AC update info from previous thread its plugged into 50 amp at my home and Generator makes no difference in Compressor 2 coming on as it is pulling 15 to 16 amps Electric has been checked from Breaker and both Fans come on. Does anybody have link to Pictures or Drawing of these units or where to look,these Basement units are they rechargeable?? or can ports be added to charge current air output is cool but not cold seems ridiculous that no provision to charge or is it just designed for high dollar replacement

[BFlinn181]

Not sure about your units, you've not identified make or model. Self contained A/C systems, unlike 'split' systems that use an outside compressor and condenser with a remotely located evaporator and fan, are often sealed units. Any leak of refrigerant would indicate a failed component that requires replacement. Charging valves can be added, but unless the leak is repaired, you better have an HVAC tech on retainer or traveling with you. The valves often leak and only delay replacement of the A/C.

Plugged into 50 amp RV service, you have two hot legs off 50 amp service. A circuit breaker, bad plug, or shore cord could cause power to only half the breaker panel. Verify that both legs of the 50 amp service are hot by testing multiple circuits in the RV or on both sides of the breaker panel.

Have you directly applied 12v power to the thermostat connection and tried to operate the 2nd unit independently of the first? Wires to #2 could be switched at the thermostat with #1, or a jumper at the units themselves.

[rjfox]

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

Not sure about your units, you've not identified make or model. Self contained A/C systems, unlike 'split' systems that use an outside compressor and condenser with a remotely located evaporator and fan, are often sealed units. Any leak of refrigerant would indicate a failed component that requires replacement. Charging valves can be added, but unless the leak is repaired, you better have an HVAC tech on retainer or traveling with you. The valves often leak and only delay replacement of the A/C.

Plugged into 50 amp RV service, you have two hot legs off 50 amp service. A circuit breaker, bad plug, or shore cord could cause power to only half the breaker panel. Verify that both legs of the 50 amp service are hot by testing multiple circuits in the RV or on both sides of the breaker panel.

Have you directly applied 12v power to the thermostat connection and tried to operate the 2nd unit independently of the first? Wires to #2 could be switched at the thermostat with #1, or a jumper at the units themselves.

Thaks will do some more checking

[Lt Dan]

Originally Posted by rjfox

2006 Itasca Basement AC update info from previous thread its plugged into 50 amp at my home and Generator makes no difference in Compressor 2 coming on as it is pulling 15 to 16 amps Electric has been checked from Breaker and both Fans come on. Does anybody have link to Pictures or Drawing of these units or where to look,these Basement units are they rechargeable?? or can ports be added to charge current air output is cool but not cold seems ridiculous that no provision to charge or is it just designed for high dollar replacement

Here is a service manual for the AirExcel/Coleman basement air units, which I had in my '06 Itasca also. They are serviceable and any AC tech can work on them, but you may have to remove it from the coach to get them to do so. It could be a couple of things, either a bad start capacitor or bad relay. The electronics can be accessed without removing the unit through a small side panel on the left end of the unit behind the exterior grill. If I remember correctly, the ambient temperature has to be greater than 4-5 degrees higher than the call temperature set on the thermostat before the second compressor will start.

Are you on true 50amp, 240v service, or is this just a single leg 50amp 120v breaker? It makes a difference because compressor #2 pulls its power from the second leg of the shore power.

I have a PDF file on the removal of the basement air, but it's too large to post here. If you need it, just PM me with an email address and I'll email it to you.

[70ChevelleSS]

If you open the electrical panel mentioned by Lt Dan you'll the start caps, run caps and relays. Power comes in at the bottom so you can see if you have 120v on both hots coming in. There are several LEDs on the circuit board, upper left that give an indication of what's going on with the 2 compressors. Refer to the service manual above, has flow charts to diagnose different problems. If the start cap on the #2 compressor is fried, seems to happen often, it may try to start the compressor several times then give up. Watch your EMS when you first turn on the A/C. It may spike up over 20 amps when it first starts up. After the fans and #1 compressor are up and running it should try to start #2 compressor and you'll see the amps spike up again.

[LookAtUSNow]

I've given this response to a few post about the basement air, so here goes.
The unit is 10 years old, if you haven't replaced the control board on it, that may fix some of your problems. The new board is about $250 if I recall. You can put charging valves in it, there are some well written instructions for that and changing the hamster wheel. We had problems with ours for about a year, wouldn't heat well in winter or cool well in summer, after about $500 worth of repairs over a period of time only to have more issues arise later, I threw in the towel and spent about $3,500 for a new unit, installation and removal of old system and have no regrets.
At 10 years the appliance is ready. This does not in no way discount any of the other replies which may still be an issue.
Not to mention our unit will now freeze us out if we're not careful and the heat pump has gone down to 29 degrees before it became effective. As you can tell I'm in favor of replacement as opposed to sinking the money into fixing something of that nature even though I tried.

[CigarBoy]

Hi Anthony, any advice on where to buy the control board. My 05' Itasca Basement AC Control board is shot also. i had to have the Tech jumper it so that the blower would come on. Problem began when 1st compressor kicked in, no blower, only when second compressor kicked in.. so overheated and tripped the breaker. Tech jumpered it so that temporarily i could put the blower on/off via the dual breakers. Looking for a control board now.
thnx
-mike

[MutinyGuy]

Originally Posted by LookAtUSNow

I've given this response to a few post about the basement air, so here goes.
The unit is 10 years old, if you haven't replaced the control board on it, that may fix some of your problems. The new board is about $250 if I recall. You can put charging valves in it, there are some well written instructions for that and changing the hamster wheel. We had problems with ours for about a year, wouldn't heat well in winter or cool well in summer, after about $500 worth of repairs over a period of time only to have more issues arise later, I threw in the towel and spent about $3,500 for a new unit, installation and removal of old system and have no regrets.
At 10 years the appliance is ready. This does not in no way discount any of the other replies which may still be an issue.
Not to mention our unit will now freeze us out if we're not careful and the heat pump has gone down to 29 degrees before it became effective. As you can tell I'm in favor of replacement as opposed to sinking the money into fixing something of that nature even though I tried.

If my Basement AC had a replacement I would have purchased in a second...unfortunately they no long make a replacement for my AC :(

[tmw188]

Originally Posted by CigarBoy

Hi Anthony, any advice on where to buy the control board. My 05' Itasca Basement AC Control board is shot also. i had to have the Tech jumper it so that the blower would come on. Problem began when 1st compressor kicked in, no blower, only when second compressor kicked in.. so overheated and tripped the breaker. Tech jumpered it so that temporarily i could put the blower on/off via the dual breakers. Looking for a control board now.
thnx
-mike

I would think your tech should be able to source that for you?

[rjfox]

Originally Posted by 70ChevelleSS

If you open the electrical panel mentioned by Lt Dan you'll the start caps, run caps and relays. Power comes in at the bottom so you can see if you have 120v on both hots coming in. There are several LEDs on the circuit board, upper left that give an indication of what's going on with the 2 compressors. Refer to the service manual above, has flow charts to diagnose different problems. If the start cap on the #2 compressor is fried, seems to happen often, it may try to start the compressor several times then give up. Watch your EMS when you first turn on the A/C. It may spike up over 20 amps when it first starts up. After the fans and #1 compressor are up and running it should try to start #2 compressor and you'll see the amps spike up again.

Thank you !!

[rjfox]

Originally Posted by MutinyGuy

If my Basement AC had a replacement I would have purchased in a second...unfortunately they no long make a replacement for my AC :(

Thanks I'm thinking I may do the same thing

[70ChevelleSS]

Originally Posted by rjfox

Thanks I'm thinking I may do the same thing

They do make a direct replacement, Airxcel is the maker of the original unit.

It could be something simple and inexpensive. I just replaced both start caps on ours for ~$20. The start caps are a common failure point. Our #2 compressor would struggle to start up. While in Fl this winter I shutoff the breaker to #2 so it wouldn't do any damage because of the bad cap. One compressor kept the MH cool with temps in the mid to upper 80's. So I figure with 2 compressors running it should be able to handle just about any temps we should have. I'm willing to sink a few dollars into it because it runs good now and does the job.

[rjfox]

Originally Posted by 70ChevelleSS

They do make a direct replacement, Airxcel is the maker of the original unit.



It could be something simple and inexpensive. I just replaced both start caps on ours for ~$20. The start caps are a common failure point. Our #2 compressor would struggle to start up. While in Fl this winter I shutoff the breaker to #2 so it wouldn't do any damage because of the bad cap. One compressor kept the MH cool with temps in the mid to upper 80's. So I figure with 2 compressors running it should be able to handle just about any temps we should have. I'm willing to sink a few dollars into it because it runs good now and does the job.

Was thinking of doing that also as you said they are cheap , Thank you

[Cooperhawk]

A couple years ago we had ours serviced. It can be dropped right down from where it resides and serviced by any AC tech. fifteen years old and it still works OK.