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02-05-2011, 10:26 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Appalachian Campers Coastal Campers
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: New Bern,NC
Posts: 2,033
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Junction box in a RV
A few days ago I posted a thread about a burnt smell when water on. I found the trouble to be with the junction that I can hardly reach. In a house AC wiring I use wire nuts in the junction box. What can I use in a rv? I am thinking about cutting the wires going in and out of the junction box and putting the box where I can reach it easier. I have some slack in the wires. I am not sure I should use wire nuts in a RV running up and down the road. I could solder the wires together.
Tom
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02-05-2011, 10:43 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,170
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I bought some stuff in a tube called Amazing Goop for RVs. It is a contact Adhesive and Sealant. I think that I would use a wire nut with a little of this stuff in it. It bonds anything together. Happy Trails, Joe
__________________
2008 Itasca Latitude 39W. Cummins ISB 6.7 Turbo 340HP. Allison 6 Speed. Freightliner XCS. Michelin XRV 255/80R 22.5 LRG. SuperSteer MCU. Safe-T-Plus.
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02-05-2011, 11:26 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 1,043
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Tom,
The box you'd like to relocate is 120 Volts AC? Then using standard electrical boxes and wire nuts is the correct way to go. No soldering needed, etc. If the box and wiring are exposed to the weather, then use a box (and entry/exit weatherproof adapters) that are certified for working in such an environment. A Lowes or Home Depot electrical rep could guide you.
Wondering: what in the current box was causing the odor? Was the box getting wet? The reason I ask is that I had a burnt insulation smell coming from the are of my hot water heater (when heating using AC power; not propane). I found some sub-standard wiring in a box there, and the wire-nuts were REALLY getting hot.
__________________
Robi & Dale ---- Go Navy ----
2016 Winnie TOUR 42'
Tow: '19 Buick Envision
or: '08 Buick Lucerne
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02-05-2011, 11:27 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,980
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Whatever you decide to use, make sure that it is approved for the type and size of the wires that you are connecting. I doubt that the "Goop" is approved for connecting electrical wires and might cause the connection to overheat or worse.
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ernieh
2019 Phaeton 37BH
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02-05-2011, 11:44 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ernieh
Whatever you decide to use, make sure that it is approved for the type and size of the wires that you are connecting. I doubt that the "Goop" is approved for connecting electrical wires and might cause the connection to overheat or worse.
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I ran a Google check and it is mentioned as safe for electrical wiring. I didn't say that you just GOOP the wires together, rather putting a little in the wire nut so you don't worry about vibrations causing it to loosen in an RV. Joe
__________________
2008 Itasca Latitude 39W. Cummins ISB 6.7 Turbo 340HP. Allison 6 Speed. Freightliner XCS. Michelin XRV 255/80R 22.5 LRG. SuperSteer MCU. Safe-T-Plus.
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02-06-2011, 12:21 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 43
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I had a similar problem last month. Very difficult location where the 30amp shore power cord connects to the motorhome. Looks like maybe the wire nut wasn't put on correctly. The wire nut and a few inches of the wires were burned, so I could not even rejoin the two pieces after cutting out the burned sections. What I did was add a short piece of wire (#10, same size as the burned wires) to join the two pieces. Also used the proper sized wire nuts to make the repair. Also wrapped the connectors with scotch #33 tape just for good measure. It was a little tough though getting it all back into the electrical box. I would definitely say to don't do any soldering.
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02-06-2011, 02:49 AM
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#7
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Moderator Emeritus
Country Coach Owners Club Appalachian Campers Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.
Posts: 12,060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tippytoe
I had a similar problem last month. Very difficult location where the 30amp shore power cord connects to the motorhome. Looks like maybe the wire nut wasn't put on correctly. The wire nut and a few inches of the wires were burned, so I could not even rejoin the two pieces after cutting out the burned sections. What I did was add a short piece of wire (#10, same size as the burned wires) to join the two pieces. Also used the proper sized wire nuts to make the repair. Also wrapped the connectors with scotch #33 tape just for good measure. It was a little tough though getting it all back into the electrical box. I would definitely say to don't do any soldering.
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Agree. This is NFPA National Electrical Code and Canada Code approved and you will not have any problem. Just make sure you cut off any wire that has turned dark and make tight, clean connections.
__________________
Mike, RVIA & RVSA Certified Master RV Technician
Amy, Dr. Assistant - Roxie & Mei Ling, four legs each
2000 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser 450 hp & 1330# torque
06 Saturn Vue, 06 Chevy Z71 4x4 & 2014 Corvette Z51 M7
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02-06-2011, 09:09 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Appalachian Campers Coastal Campers
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: New Bern,NC
Posts: 2,033
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What Carriage used for a junction box is a box that is 2X4 with a clear plastic cover. Where the black stranded wire is the copper wire is no longer copper is is black and the insulation is bubbled up where it comes out of the box. My main problem is that I don't think I brought anything to cut wire with.
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02-07-2011, 03:31 AM
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#9
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Moderator Emeritus
Country Coach Owners Club Appalachian Campers Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.
Posts: 12,060
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Borrow some tools to get it done or wait till later. Just don't use the electrical side of the water heater until is is repaired properly. Classic result of a loose connection.
__________________
Mike, RVIA & RVSA Certified Master RV Technician
Amy, Dr. Assistant - Roxie & Mei Ling, four legs each
2000 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser 450 hp & 1330# torque
06 Saturn Vue, 06 Chevy Z71 4x4 & 2014 Corvette Z51 M7
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02-07-2011, 08:46 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Appalachian Campers Coastal Campers
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: New Bern,NC
Posts: 2,033
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I bought a wire cutter yesterday at Walmart for $1.97 great quality and made in China.
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02-07-2011, 10:00 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Buxton, North Dakota
Posts: 3,940
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Wire nuts will work fine. Cut off the damaged end of the wire, strip and install wire nut. Put two ends parallel, then twist wire nut until tight. Use a tie wrap just below the wire nut. Then tape the wire nut with electrical tape, wrapping in the clockwise tightening direction. If this is a two wire connection (hot and neutral) redo both wires, then tie wrap the pair of wires. The tie wraps provide help in preventing the loosening of the wires with vibration driving down the road. Soldering, if you can do a good job, if fine. Then wrap a wire nut on the soldered connection, tape and tie wrap.
__________________
2003 Winnebago Adventurer 38G F53/ V10 605 watts of Solar
1999 Winnebago Brave 35C F53V10 Handicap Equipped
1999 Jeep Cherokee, 1991 Jeep Wrangler Renegade and 2018 Chevrolet Equinox Diesel
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02-07-2011, 10:14 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Yuma Arizona USA
Posts: 2,996
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Wire nuts in an RV are not a real good solution to connection needs. The vibrations we get over time loosen the connection and the resistance builds up causes heat and the wires start to melt. Although things like goop or tape will help hold the wire nuts in place I don't understand why some of you seem to be so against soldering. I have done several repairs with solder and either shrink tubing or electrical tape over the years and have never had a problem with any of those connections again.
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Brian, Loretta & Lucy (Golden Retriever)
2008 HR Endeavor 40 PDQ , ISL 400
2010 Dodge Ram 1500 Toad
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02-07-2011, 01:40 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diandtom
A few days ago I posted a thread about a burnt smell when water on. I found the trouble to be with the junction that I can hardly reach. In a house AC wiring I use wire nuts in the junction box. What can I use in a rv? I am thinking about cutting the wires going in and out of the junction box and putting the box where I can reach it easier. I have some slack in the wires. I am not sure I should use wire nuts in a RV running up and down the road. I could solder the wires together.
Tom
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Well, Wire nuts work in an RV to.. Make sure you tighten them down very tight and then tape over them so they do not come loose, but wire nuts work there to.
There are other connnectors you can use as well, but that's really about the best.
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Home is where I park it!
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02-08-2011, 02:50 AM
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#14
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Moderator Emeritus
Country Coach Owners Club Appalachian Campers Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.
Posts: 12,060
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As the old saying goes, "there are many ways to skin a cat"! If done properly wire nuts are permitted and do work well even with the vibration effect. Soldering will also work, again if done correctly. It just that wire nuts are faster on the production line.
__________________
Mike, RVIA & RVSA Certified Master RV Technician
Amy, Dr. Assistant - Roxie & Mei Ling, four legs each
2000 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser 450 hp & 1330# torque
06 Saturn Vue, 06 Chevy Z71 4x4 & 2014 Corvette Z51 M7
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