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Old 10-14-2016, 08:34 AM   #1
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Leaky Dump Valves

Hey all!
On my shakedown cruise out here boondocking in the badlands of New Mexico, and loving it.
Wifi through my little mobile hotspot lets me post and get email. :-)

Hey question. What do you guys do about leaky dump valves? My graywater dump valves leak just a bit, so inevitably, when I pull off the cap to dump graywater I get deluged by all the leakage in the drain pipe. Gross...
Is there a quick fix for this kind of problem?
I assume these are knife valves. They are operated by push/pull handles near the drainpipes.

Any direction much appreciated.
Thanks
Dave
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Old 10-14-2016, 09:11 AM   #2
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One of the first repairs on my previous motorhome was to replace these valves. They are inexpensive ($12-15 if I remember correctly). They are knife valves and come with short push-pull handles. There are 2 sizes so you need to know the diameter of the pipe. An easy install requiring no special tools. My unit had long cables so the short push-pull handles wouldn't work.... I just took the rubber seals from the new ones and installed them on the old . Regards, Warren
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Old 10-14-2016, 09:11 AM   #3
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You can get a portable gate valve that connects to the end of your sewer line just like your sewer hose. I carry one as standard equipment. I would however suggest you start looking to replace the inline valve.
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Old 10-15-2016, 09:57 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoDog View Post
Hey all!
On my shakedown cruise out here boondocking in the badlands of New Mexico, and loving it.
Wifi through my little mobile hotspot lets me post and get email. :-)

Hey question. What do you guys do about leaky dump valves? My graywater dump valves leak just a bit, so inevitably, when I pull off the cap to dump graywater I get deluged by all the leakage in the drain pipe. Gross...
Is there a quick fix for this kind of problem?
I assume these are knife valves. They are operated by push/pull handles near the drainpipes.

Any direction much appreciated.
Thanks
Dave
My son just had that problem on his toy box. He disassembled the valve and it had debris jambed in the gate valve/knife valve. Just needed cleaning out.
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Old 10-25-2016, 07:05 PM   #5
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Just changed both of my knife valves today, took a couple of hours as I had one leaking when I reassembled it, it's a little difficult to get each seal in properly in that tight space.

The gray tank uses 1 1/2" and was $13, the black tank is 3" and it was $19



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Old 10-25-2016, 10:46 PM   #6
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Leaky Dump Valves

Twodog.......
When you go to install the new knives, you'll note there is a new o-ring in a groove on each side of each new valve. One of the trickiest parts of the install is keeping those o-rings in place while you position the new valve assembly.
Buy a couple of fairly firm plastic document protectors and a small tube of silicone grease. Cut the plastic to fit as a cover on each side of the new valve, leaving a longer tab protruding on the side toward the T-handle. Seal the o-ring in its groove with the grease, and smear some extra around to hold the plastic in place.
With the valves thus prepped, put them into position and then slide the plastic shield out on each side, leaving the o-ring secure in its position.
Good Luck!


John & Diane, fulltiming since '12 02 DS40, FL, Cat, '04 Element NHSO RVM103
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Old 10-25-2016, 11:25 PM   #7
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You will need an adjustable wrench and a philips screw driver. You will also need a clothes pin. Put the clothes pin on your nose and the rest is easy.
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Old 10-26-2016, 12:47 AM   #8
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Leaky Dump Valves

Apropos of billdream's comment, I'll offer these two additional suggestions:
1) be sure you drain and rinse both black and gray before commencing the job.
2) let your coach down off the jacks. Don't air up the bags, just let the box down onto the stops. Then lower the driver side jacks enough to take some weight. You don't need to pick up the wheels, just take enough load onto the jacks to put a few degrees of tilt onto the coach. This will prevent any residual tank content from slowly running out the pipes while you're working.


John & Diane, fulltiming since '12 02 DS40, FL, Cat, '04 Element NHSO RVM103
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Old 10-30-2016, 01:32 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFXG View Post
Apropos of billdream's comment, I'll offer these two additional suggestions:
1) be sure you drain and rinse both black and gray before commencing the job.
2) let your coach down off the jacks. Don't air up the bags, just let the box down onto the stops. Then lower the driver side jacks enough to take some weight. You don't need to pick up the wheels, just take enough load onto the jacks to put a few degrees of tilt onto the coach. This will prevent any residual tank content from slowly running out the pipes while you're working.


John & Diane, fulltiming since '12 02 DS40, FL, Cat, '04 Element NHSO RVM103

I like the suggestion on the jacks. Could make a difference even when tanks are thought to be empty.
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Old 10-30-2016, 07:22 PM   #10
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Watch this video on replacing your valves.



At the beginning he shows a nice way to deal with minor leakage using a sewer cap that has a garden hose outlet.

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T102...ose+connection

I replaced my black tank valve myself. It was the easiest fix I've ever done on my RV.
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Old 10-31-2016, 09:24 AM   #11
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Or steal the wife's toothbrush and clean the valve seats. NOT, the above replacement posts.

LEN
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Old 11-02-2016, 07:55 AM   #12
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We too have a garden hose outlet on ours.

Get an extra cover and a ball valve or other hose bib or faucet then drill a hole and mount it.

Mounting depends on type but that is simple.

Leave in place always and with valve closed.

Then as habit ALWAYS slowly open valve before removing cover....ALWAYS!

Because you may not have closed a valve or one may have leaked and the little bit of fluid that comes out can be easily stopped by turning valve off then hose attached to direct it away.
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Old 11-02-2016, 08:18 AM   #13
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Try and old toothbrush and a little vasalean on the seals to get you by till you can change the valve at home.

good luck

pointrow
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Old 11-04-2016, 06:01 PM   #14
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Changed out my black tank valve this morning. What a pain! Getting the valve out was the easy part. Getting the new one in was not easy. It's really tight in there and most of, maybe all of the valve is behind the plastic front of the wet bay. Watch all the videos and see them working out in the open. It's not like that! The hardest part was trying to keep the gaskets on both sides and slide the valve back in. One gasket kept coming off and jamming the valve. I needed more room to spread the two flanges apart. Tiffin put a board from front to back to strap the assembly too. Keeps things from moving. You need to remove or loosen the connection to that board so things will move a bit more. At least you will have just a bit more room to spread that flange. I tried and tried to put the new gaskets on each side and slide the valve in, I just couldn't keep the gaskets in place. After trying a bunch of times I decided to put the gaskets on each side of the valve and slide it in that way. After a couple of tries, it worked. (Did I miss something in the video?) I was able to tighten up the 4 bolts and have a tight, leak free connection. After doing the black one, the grey water valve should be a lot easier. It's just smaller, so there's more room. The suggestion of using the levelers to raise the drivers side up was a great idea. It's still a tough job because you are sitting on the ground, (or a mat) and you have your legs out in front of you and you are reaching out and behind piping to loosen and tighten nuts. I hate plumbing! There are no pictures, because well, dirty hands and an iPhone don't mix.

Jack


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