Looking for replacement toilet

[user293]

I tried searching but something slowing my connection to the irv2.com forum. I guess too much overhead or something?

Anyway I'm looking for a new low profile toilet to replace my aging & broken low profile Thetford.

I looked at some Dometic 300, 310 & 311s which appear to be ok. But also found Some Thetford low profile Aqua-Magic Style II and Aqua-Magic Residence with water saver. Some have come with an optional hose spray attachment.

I'm leaning towards the Thetfords with the ceramic china bowls, However I've read good things about the Dometic 300 series such as the 310 and 311.

What is a water saver? Is this something good to have when boondocking? and/or save water that comes from the city or well?

Why would I need a hose sprayer attachment? My toilet is separate from the shower and could not really stand water spilling onto the floor.

How do the Dometic and Thetford toilets (mentioned models) compare when flushing, servicing, durability, etc.? One is sturdier, than another, less likely parts will break?

Both appear to have fairly sturdy toilet seats with china bowls. The Dometics bottom half is made from plastic I'm not certain about the Thetford Aqua-Magics.

I really wanted a standard flush toilet but read unless you have a large black water tank (40+ gallons) or remove the black water tank not really worth the trouble converting to a standard flush toilet.

[hivoltage98]

I had the plastic thetford toilet and was not very happy with it since it smelled all the time. It was hard to clean since it had so many crevices. We just upgraded to a dometic 320 with sprayer. Very happy with it. It has the China bowl and plastic bottom.

[ransil]

I installed a Dometic 320 low profile with sprayer, wife likes the sprayer when cleaning.
Cost for the low profile and sprayer was quite a bit more than standard without sprayer.

Check your clearances, mine is a tight fit, 1/8 to the back wall and the low profile was taller than the one I too out.

But it's a nice upgrade from the standard plastic one.

[user293]

Exactly what are the benefits of having a china bowl?

My old plastic toilet though the toilet seat & lid, the flush lever and overflow valve are broken still works ok after many years of use. The plastic bowl and base are still in good condition.

I also notice their a significant differences in prices. There seems to a be a price range for a set of toilets with cost of just over ~$100.00 to around ~$175.00. Then prices jump up to around ~$500.00+.

[JFXG]

Originally Posted by user293

.......I'm leaning towards the Thetfords with the ceramic china bowls, However I've read good things about the Dometic 300 series such as the 310 and 311.

What is a water saver? Is this something good to have when boondocking? and/or save water that comes from the city or well?

Why would I need a hose sprayer attachment? My toilet is separate from the shower and could not really stand water spilling onto the floor.......

293..... My comments are made from the Fulltimers point of view. If you are a part-time camper your requirements may differ.

I prefer the Dometic toilets for a variety of reasons. I just last summer installed a Dometic 320. The 320 gives you the elongated residential shape- far more comfortable.

1. The china bowl makes it much easier to keep things clean. The plastic will stain or darken over the years, and is also vulnerable to scratching if some kind of abrasive is used in cleaning. The plastic bowl models usually also come with a plastic seat instead of good solid wood. Cheap goods.

2. A water saver feature may seem attractive to those who boondock often, or like to seem eco-friendly. And so it may be, but in my opinion and experience there are many times and places to actively conserve water, and your RV toilet is not one of them. Trying to operate your waste system with minimal water will quite possibly lead to ineffective tank flushing, clogs, and blockages that can be expensive to resolve. In an RV toilet, water is your friend.

3. The spray hose is there to thoroughly rinse all residual paper and waste down the gravity hole during the flush. These toilets do not flush the same way a residential unit does, and sometimes need a little help. I'm sure you've noticed your RV toilet has no tank mounted on the back of the bowl. There is no rush of water in the flush, it relies solely on the regular flow of water to do the job, and in many circumstances that flow is not very robust. Hence the sprayer. It is a good option to have.

Good Luck!!

[ElvistheKing]

I was always under the impression that the sprayer *was* the water saver?

[user293]

Originally Posted by ElvistheKing

I was always under the impression that the sprayer *was* the water saver?

That's what I was told by a RV toilet seller.

Some RV toilets do have a water-saver design. While others may half way add water with a full activation that provides a full-bowl coverage flush.

Some RV toilets are more expensive starting at around $500.00 I think instead of a mechanical flush they have an electric flush. What else they have for $500.00+ uncertain.

Even more expensive RV toilets start at around $1000.00 some come with waste transfer system capable of pumping 120 feet of water with an 8 foot rise. Which allows for the black water tanks to be installed in other locations besides directly underneath.

From what I've read these toilets actually are designed to save water.

Some of the more expensive toilets $1000.00+ come with a macerator and pump. I'm not really familiar with the macerator systems. I think they're capable of churning the sewage then pumping through a one inch hose.

My older 1956 trailer I once owned and lived in came standard with porcelain home type toilet and plumping fixtures. Came with Preway gas oven built into the wall was made from porcelain over steel.

Older RVs there was no plastic, mostly made from steel, wood and aluminum. The one I lived in manufactured in 1956 came from the factory with double pane windows encased in aluminum and all aluminum exterior shell.

I remember the medium size Coldspot refrigerator I believe also installed at the factory was still running well keeping food cold and frozen at the correct temperatures after more than fifty years.

I guess those were the days when manufactures manufactured household items, appliances and different types of equipment to last 30+ years. That were designed to be easily repaired and not thrown away.

[user293]

While looking at Dometic 310's I came across a couple of forum messages, one posted to a thread I created in another forum.

Both owners of a Dometic 310 had problems with a cracked ball valve. The ball that open and closes when flushing the toilet.

Both forum posters said they replaced their 310 with another toilet.

One of the owners stated there is no ball valve available for a Dometic 310 and he threw out his 310 with a cracked ball valve and replaced it with another RV toilet.

I find this rather hard to believe that a RV toilet manufacture would not have a replaceable parts such as a ball valve.

Can anyone here can confirm these claims? or perhaps these posters were just mistaken and all the parts are available same as the Thetford Toilets, such as the Aqua-Magic series Style II, Residence and others.


The RV toilet I'm considering is a Thetford Aqua Magic Style II Low Profile Bone with China bowl.

Is fairly reasonable cost similar in style and price as the Dometic 310.

The Thetford Residence is similar to the Dometic 300 with plastic base and bowl.

All have a similar design with the foot pedal flush lever to one side of the base.

[lynnmor]

Originally Posted by user293

While looking at Dometic 310's I came across a couple of forum messages, one posted to a thread I created in another forum.

Both owners of a Dometic 310 had problems with a cracked ball valve. The ball that open and closes when flushing the toilet.

Both forum posters said they replaced their 310 with another toilet.

One of the owners stated there is no ball valve available for a Dometic 310 and he threw out his 310 with a cracked ball valve and replaced it with another RV toilet.

I find this rather hard to believe that a RV toilet manufacture would not have a replaceable parts such as a ball valve.

Can anyone here can confirm these claims? or perhaps these posters were just mistaken and all the parts are available same as the Thetford Toilets, such as the Aqua-Magic series Style II, Residence and others.

Simply search for the Dometic 310 ball valve and give us the part number and source. I spent way too much time doing just that, and found nothing but others with the same problem.

[user293]

Yes I previously performed a Google search and could not find any reference to a 310 or 300 series ball valve which I assume would be the same for a Dometic 300, 310, 311 and 320.

I find this odd as the 300 series toilets are fairly popular and there are ball valves for Dometic 210 and many other Domentics RV toilets including Sealand which Dometic now owns.

Perhaps Dometic / Sealand will come out with a ball valve that fits the 310.

I believe some of the Dometic toilets are nearly or basically the same as Sealand toilets which are usually considered to be a marine toilet.

I remember asking a person who sells Marine toilets about the difference between a Sealand marine toilet and an RV toilet and was told the only different is the outlet near the ball valve is smaller for a marine toilet. He said you can install the Sealand marine toilet in an RV by swapping out the plastic outlet connector piece that fits between toilet and it's waste tank connection. He said basically there's no other difference between a Sealand marine toilet and a common RV toilet, both normally dump downward. There are exceptions of course such as toilets with macerators, etc. some which allow to relocate the waster water tank to another location.

RV toilets typically use a 3" outlet where the outlets for Marine toilets are smaller and often need to connect to a waste disposal system which is usually part of a vacuum based waste system that uses less water than a RV toilet. If your out in the ocean and off-shore there are Federal rules and regulations you can't dump un-treated sewage within 3 miles of the shore. However each state have their own rules and regulations (which must also abide by federal regulations) that can be stricter for boaters in waters under state control.

Boats with installed toilets must have an operable Coast Guard approved MSD designed either to hold sewage for pumpout ashore or for discharge in the ocean beyond the three mile limit, or to treat the sewage to Federal standard prior to discharge.

[user293]

I think because of the lack of a replaceable ball valve. I'm leaning towards purchasing a Thetford Style II which is approx. the same price and design as the Dometic 310 and provides a replaceable parts lists from it's website which includes a ball valve.

Below are a couple of pics of the non-replaceable 310 ball valve. It appears in order to replace the ball valve you would need to replace the entire unit the ball valve fits into or the entire toilet.

Dometic 310 - 320 manual: After a period of time, mineral deposits from hard water may build up on the flush ball or seal, resulting in a slow water leak. To prevent this, periodically clean the flush ball and seal.

So if you own a Dometic 310 I think it would be important to periodically clean and lube the ball valve and seal. (which should also be done on other RV toilets but perhaps more important for a Dometic 310 or the 300 series.) Some manuals show to only use a silicon base lubricant such as a silicon spray or silicon based plumber grease, or something like Thetford toilet seal and conditioner, etc.

The Dometic 310 manuals shows to clean and lubricate the flush ball and seal with silicone spray or furniture polish.

I think silicon or synthetic based lubes are recommended as silicon doesn't react the same when placed on plastic as does petroleum based lubricants such as petroleum jelly, WD-40, petroleum grease and other petroleum based lubricants. Most if not all plastics tend to deteriorate faster, weaken and the structural integrity of plastics is effected, when a petroleum based lube is used.

However most mineral based lubricants can be used on plastics. Lubricants based on esters or polyglycols are generally not compatible with plastic. Solid additives, such as graphite or molybdenum disulfide (moly), can penetrate and weaken a plastic component and should generally be avoided.

Parts list for a Dometic 310 Gravity Flush Toilet

https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/...rts%20List.pdf

Pics of the Dometic 310 ball valve. Sometimes the two plastic side tabs shear off.

[lynnmor]

Even if you could get a ball valve, (not on parts list) for the Dometic 310, the plastic and china halves would need to be separated. Then there is a gasket and a plastic part, (also not on parts list) that should be replaced. Then a hardening sealant of some kind should be applied to the seam when reassembling.

Yes, silicone lube should be applied to the ball seal, but at least the seal is easily replaceable for a ridiculous $26.

[user293]

People have tried to repair the 310's ball valve with epoxy, inserting metal parts to replace the plastic tabs. But none have reported being successful and ended up purchasing a new toilet.

I just hope the Thetford Style II will last at least as long as my old Thetford that didn't use a ball valve. Instead uses a spring loaded plate that slides across the bowls outlet. Used for many years without breaking or leaking. Eventually gave up and started to produce odor, toilet lever broke, toilet seat, cover and hinges are broken. Just could not last as long as a regular tank toilet. I use to have one that was installed in a Vintage 50's RV and still working well to this day. All tank toilets usually ever require is perhaps a new flush valve, fill valve with flapper repair kit, etc. Which can be usually found for less than 10 to 20 dollars dollars.

I was thinking of installing a porcelain tank toilet however it would required ripping up the floor box the current low profile toilet is installed on and my RV only has a 18.4 gallon black water tank. Which would mean less than 18 flushes before requiring to flush the black water tank.

I'm thinking most all RV toilets around $200.00 and less aren't going to last a long time (similar to a tank toilet) without careful use and periodic maintenance such as cleaning and lubing the ball valve. You need to be careful not to use certain chemicals, cleansers, brushes & scouring pad that will damage RV toilets. Aren't suppose to put chemicals such as Clorox, etc. in their black water tanks.

[eddndee]

Thetford Aqua-magic V complete toilet... $103 new on Amazon Thetford 31667 Aqua-Magic V Toilet, High / Hand Flush / White