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toneumanns · 08-31-2013, 02:50 AM

My unit has failed. For the life of me I can't figure out how to remove it. It is a Sharp convection unit. Any help would be appreciated.

94-Newmar · 08-31-2013, 04:45 AM

hehe.. they are quite a puzzle aren't they? Remove any light covers, grease filters, etc etc. On the bottom, you will see two 7/16" or 3/8" headed inch bolts that are threaded up into the chassis at an angle. These are generally within about 6" of either side and more towards the front of the unit. Remove those and the unit will hinge downward from the back. Those bolts are as long as your unit is tall.. they're long :-)

"007" · 08-31-2013, 05:34 AM

In this link, this forum you will find info to remove your micro.
GO to bottom of link.

Wizard · 08-31-2013, 05:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94-Newmar

hehe.. they are quite a puzzle aren't they? Remove any light covers, grease filters, etc etc. On the bottom, you will see two 7/16" or 3/8" headed inch bolts that are threaded up into the chassis at an angle. These are generally within about 6" of either side and more towards the front of the unit. Remove those and the unit will hinge downward from the back. Those bolts are as long as your unit is tall.. they're long :-)

On mine those bolts are about 12" long

dsbike · 08-31-2013, 05:54 AM

Before you remove it have you checked to see if there is a inline fuse under the light cover. I had my microwave of a different brand (don't remember what brand now, sold that motor home) that quit & after I removed it I found a fuse that was easily accessible without removing the microwave that had blown.

toneumanns · 08-31-2013, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94-Newmar

hehe.. they are quite a puzzle aren't they? Remove any light covers, grease filters, etc etc. On the bottom, you will see two 7/16" or 3/8" headed inch bolts that are threaded up into the chassis at an angle. These are generally within about 6" of either side and more towards the front of the unit. Remove those and the unit will hinge downward from the back. Those bolts are as long as your unit is tall.. they're long :-)

I found those bolts and loosened them but the unit wouldn't swing down. I loosened them until the were loose in the unit but I didn't remove the completely. Do they need to be removed completely?

toneumanns · 09-01-2013, 03:04 PM

Anybody have any other ideas? This thing won't budge. I just hope I can find a fuse as this thing costs $550.

clyon51 · 09-01-2013, 04:06 PM

The top 2-3 inches should be a removable cover. Getting that off should reveal the bolts that go vertical into an upper cabinet. Or go into the above cabinet and remove the 'floor' to expose the bolt ends and nuts. You'll have to eventually do both anyway. (Unless the nuts are secured, then you can just un-screw bolts from the bottom).

The back bottom of the MW is resting on a plate bolted to the wall. Removing the verticle bolts will allow the top of the MW to fall aweay from the wall and it will be out.

Any fuses are behind the control panel on the MW. At least all this was true on the 2 I have had to R&R.

rpk · 09-01-2013, 07:34 PM

My GE failed. It was held in by being clipped to an upper rear shelf - had to be lifted up to clear the lip. Problem was the very last relay I checked - the one that protects against overheat. Found it by tried and true wire tracing from power input to whatever stopped the electricity. $1.50 part.

Good luck.

toneumanns · 09-02-2013, 03:46 PM

Well it's finally out. Winny had added a couple of "L" brackets for added security. It was hidden by a filler piece which was a floater above the microwave. Checked the fuses & they were good. Hope a repair shop can help.

Muddypaws · 09-02-2013, 04:07 PM

But did you check the plug?

I thought my convection oven was fried and found it was one of the breakers on my converter/inverter.

Not to worry, GE is fairly good with replacement parts.

toneumanns · 09-02-2013, 07:17 PM

The plug had power. I wish it had been that simple.

toneumanns · 09-04-2013, 11:48 AM

My last post on this thing. Low voltage relay on control board inop. $150 for new control board which is better than buying a new unit for $550. Last trip we did encounter a low voltage problem that also caused the A/C breakers to trip. Have now ordered a Progressive monitor that I had procrastinated in buying. Don't hesitate, buy one!