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Carolina Fun · 10-07-2014, 11:03 PM

I was able to look inside of those aluminum channels and found no evidence of wiring. All of the cabling looks to be above where I've drilled. The only other thing that may have effected those systems is RF from the wireless cameras I was going to install. The wireless camera system I was going to install was the Uniden UDS655 four Cameras Wireless Security System. If anyone has any experience with RF and the Bounder system please let me know.

Carolina Fun · 10-07-2014, 11:15 PM

In response to YC1, It isn't a low voltage battery problem. The coach is hooked up to 120 volts and I had to pull the 12volt fuse to stop the furnace blower from running. I am baffled. None of the fuses are blow. Thanks for your help.

Carolina Fun · 10-07-2014, 11:18 PM

I did pick up one of those snake cameras. It is helping me see into the holes I drilled. Thanks.

YC1 · 10-08-2014, 07:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carolina Fun

In response to YC1, It isn't a low voltage battery problem. The coach is hooked up to 120 volts and I had to pull the 12volt fuse to stop the furnace blower from running. I am baffled. None of the fuses are blow. Thanks for your help.

Thanks for the feedback. I am an RF technician with 40 yrs in the industry. A Motorola two way radio tech. FCC first class license, Certified Electronic Tech. The RF involved in a camera system is such a low energy there is no way it could effect your systems.

I am inclined to think you have a circumstantial and coincidental issue with twelve volts. Even though you are plugged in to shoreline your 12 volts for those systems could be low due to a common connection.

A continuously running fan on a propane heater is a symptom of low voltage. Low voltage will not allow the fan to run fast enough to create sufficient air to engage the sail switch which in turns allows the propane to flow. You did not indicate if the heater was producing heat when running.
That alone is a big clue that would help.

Some times fixing the one thing that is obvious solves multiple problems. Now I don't mean obvious as being easy. Just that chasing dead lights is not as easy as chasing a voltage that is there because the fan is running.

Before you spend a bunch of money on a scope I suggest taking a few voltage measurements.

One other thing to visualize. Does it make any sense that the lights and the heater would have wires running through that area? It might be possible but if the heater is on one wall and the lights on the other then no.

A few more pictures would help. One of the bottom of the pillar as close to the floor as possible. You may also be able to hold the camera with the flash turned on up inside areas you cannot see under the dash.

bamaboy473 · 10-09-2014, 03:18 PM

...to stumble in YC1's path, would the OP be able to confirm low voltage at the fan (or not) by just using a continuity tester for 12V?

If it isn't low at the fan (12.2V+), then what would be his next test?

YC1 · 10-09-2014, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bamaboy473

...to stumble in YC1's path, would the OP be able to confirm low voltage at the fan (or not) by just using a continuity tester for 12V?

If it isn't low at the fan (12.2V+), then what would be his next test?

My approach would be to start right at the batteries and check the voltage across the batteries right on the center posts. Then scratch a clean and shiny place on some metal place to connect the negative lead of the meter. Then use that spot while making all other measurements. Using a known good ground is critical on a vehicle. I have actually installed a small jumper that I can plug in to and then have a couple of long pieces of wire with spade lugs on so I can reach anywhere on the rv.

Once a good ground is established then measure from there to the center of the negative post of the battery. Then measure a few inches away from the center post of the positive lead on the battery. Sharpen the probe so making contact is easy. Try not to push or pull on wires or connections. You need to find the voltage drop so you can be sure of the fix.

Carolina Fun · 10-10-2014, 10:27 AM

Could a revered 30amp neutral and hot hook up caused those kind of problems?

Steve Ownby · 10-10-2014, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carolina Fun

Could a revered 30amp neutral and hot hook up caused those kind of problems?

If you measure 120vac between the neutral and ground then either the neutral or ground is hot.

Steve Ownby
Full time since '07

YC1 · 10-10-2014, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carolina Fun

Could a revered 30amp neutral and hot hook up caused those kind of problems?

The devices you listed run on 12 volts and not 110 volts. IF your converter/charger tripped or smoked then the batteries were not getting charged and the voltage slumped from over discharge.

Since you mention 30 amp you didn't happen to plug into an existing outlet that you have never been plugged into before? A dryer outlet is not a 30 AMP RV outlet.

wa8yxm · 10-10-2014, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carolina Fun

Could a revered 30amp neutral and hot hook up caused those kind of problems?

While I can not state that it impossible.

I would be very very very very very suprised,, Odds are very low.

The only thing likely to be damaged by a polarity reversal on the 30 amp side of life is... YOU.

TQ60 · 10-10-2014, 08:17 PM

Have you looked at the top and bottom of the piller and observed any wires?

Usually they are not inside the steel tube from factory and rv maker adds them along post under trim unless tube is large and open at ends.

You may need to remove psnels at floor and overhead to see.

If wires are seen then insert a piece of coat hanger into the drilled holes snd probe for wires.

Next leave wire in hole snd try to move the wires in the post to see if the wire in the hole moves.

If it moves then possible for damage.

If not then maybe not.

YC1 gives good advise to chase your voltage as well.

Carolina Fun · 10-10-2014, 11:36 PM

The closer I look at the holes I drilled the less likely those holes are the problem. I've got one more hole to look into to see if there are any wires present. I can check my main and aux batteries from the console in the front dash board. The main read 12.2 and the aux read 13.5. I need to determine which battery is the main and which is the aux. I'll let you all know what I find. Thanks again for the help.

Carolina Fun · 10-14-2014, 03:44 PM

It appears no wiring is in the piller I drilled through. My battery voltages are 12.2 for the chassis battery and 13.5 for the coach battery. I am at a loss for what may be the problem. Thanks for your help.

YC1 · 10-14-2014, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carolina Fun

In response to YC1, It isn't a low voltage battery problem. The coach is hooked up to 120 volts and I had to pull the 12volt fuse to stop the furnace blower from running. I am baffled. None of the fuses are blow. Thanks for your help.

The low voltage is why your furnace kept running. Pulling the fuse killed it of course. The low voltage is not enough to turn the fan fast enough to push the sail switch which then allows the gas to start. If the voltage is low and it is as you stated then the fan just keeps going and going.

You need to fix the obvious first. Fix the low voltage. For a test just jumper the battery banks together or put a standalone charger on the low ones.