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Old 05-08-2016, 06:06 AM   #15
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I just have never ever seen a switch with any kind of timer internal so here is what is happening with your switch.

The jumpers etc are to provide power to the light bulb inside. There will be an incoming 12 volts supplied for that purpose. The switch is also probably sending a ground to the solenoid that controls the latch,.

Grab your voltmeter and take some measurement on the switch,. You should find a steady 12 volts coming in that does not change with the switch being activated. You will then either see a 12 volt output on one of the pins with the switch toggled OR you will see 12 volts and then when the switch is toggled it will go to zero volts.

I suspect your latch release mechanism is crusty and needs some serious cleaning. Much like a hood latch that is released by a pull cable it could easily be released by a pulling solenoid. This is how door locks work on vehicles. Once the hood is released it relatches mechanically when closed.
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Old 05-08-2016, 11:31 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phays View Post
Just curious Dean. On my 2000 Magna, it appears that a solenoid releases a latch and a spring pushes the generator slide out about 1/2 inch or so. I can hear a definite click as the solenoid releases the generator. I haven't crawled under the coach to see how the release works but this is the way it behaves. No time delay in the circuitry.

If yours is similar then have you tried pushing the switch closed while someone pulls on the slide to see if it will open? If not, then perhaps there is a solenoid that is bad.

Yes, I have to prop the toggle switch in the on position to then open the generator slide hatch. The latch can be heard opening and closing repeatedly.

I see a spring but have not recently had the genset slide pop out the 1/2" you refer to. That spring is in picture #4 of the post #13 above.
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Old 05-08-2016, 12:06 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by YC1 View Post
I just have never ever seen a switch with any kind of timer internal

I do not believe there is any timed function.


I suspect your latch release mechanism is crusty and needs some serious cleaning.

Currently the latch opens and closes rapidly and repeatedly if the toggle switch is held in the "on" position. I have to time my tug on the hatch cover to open it during the cycling.

It nevers fails to latch or unlatch. Only to remain unlatched.




Much like a hood latch that is released by a pull cable it could easily be released by a pulling solenoid.

This is how door locks work on vehicles. Once the hood is released it re-latches mechanically when closed.

Aha! That is a great observation. The same as Phays comment about his rig.

I see a heavy spring in there, but I have not notice the hatch popping ajar when the toggle is pushed on. The latch releases but no automatic hatch movement.

So maybe this is not an electrical failure but a "spring" problem.





I will get back to everybody with new info about the spring or lack of spring.
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Old 05-08-2016, 12:18 PM   #18
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I think that 9418 might mean that it was manufactured on the 18th week of 1994.
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Old 05-08-2016, 12:45 PM   #19
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I think that 9418 might mean that it was manufactured on the 18th week of 1994.
Ah! someone who actually knows a bit about electrical marking. You are correct.
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Old 05-08-2016, 05:50 PM   #20
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In case someone want to decode one of those Carling switches you can go to Allied Electronics and find their chart. They can be incredibly complicated or very simple.

It the problem was mine I would have the latching mechanism out and on my work bench. Heck, you can ever supply your own battery power to engage it.
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Old 05-24-2016, 11:54 AM   #21
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Problem Identified - It is not the switch!

Thanks to all for the attempts to help me solve the unlatching problem.

I now know the generator slide closes upon two coil springs. One of the springs is visible in the earlier posted pictures.

The springs have lost their tension. So when the toggle switch releases the latch, the springs do not push the generator slide past the latch mechanism.

I tested the concept with a temporary 1/4 inch chunk of plywood set in the path. The switch and springs then did their job properly.

So my solution will be to insert a coil spring extender into each spring. This is about a $10 solution and hopefully much simpler.

Your responses that alluded to the release action of a car hood when the remote release is used set me on this path.

Thanks to all. I apologize for aiming the question in the wrong direction from the get go.......
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Old 05-24-2016, 04:05 PM   #22
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Dean...Look for an automotive machine shop that performs valve jobs.

They usually have buckets full of harvested valve springs and these come in many different sizes and strengths.

Usually free or dirt cheap for a hand full.

These are suitable for compression spring application.

Photo is from a foot switch supported by Perkins spring.
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