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Old 07-03-2016, 08:42 PM   #15
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Did the same install as you described, including the wheels about 5 years to our previous coach. Wish I had room to do it in the " new to us" coach we have now. Best mod I ever did.

Looks good, good job.

To secure it in place, on back and sides I made wooden chocks on the platform prior to sliding it in. For the front, behind the refrigerator grille, put in 1 1/2" bolts standing as a post.
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Old 07-05-2016, 01:27 PM   #16
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Fastening to floor

I had removed all wheels and bent the tabs in making a foot but had room to insert wood screw in hole roller pin was in the front. I did remove the front adjuster feet to help access. I did not use the adjuster feet and was able to eliminated the front grill and trim it out on the bottom with one of the filler piece removed earlier in project. I also took a 3/8 lag with a large washer from the back access panel and was able to screw through hole roller was in down into 2x4 installed under floor for support to anchor the back. I did have to modify the fridges rear access panel a little to get behind it to install lag. All in all was a success and waiting to reap the benefits soon on our next journey end of month.
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Old 07-05-2016, 02:43 PM   #17
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Thanks.
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Old 07-06-2016, 04:39 PM   #18
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samsung fridge

I unplug coach to get new fridge to run on inverter and noticed that it was drawing 39 amps on the monitoring panel. We have MAgnum 2000 series and four 6 volts batteries. I s this the draw expected for this unit?
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Old 07-07-2016, 09:43 AM   #19
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That RF18 is supposed to to run at 1600 watts which should be about 13.5 amps. If it has a locked rotor in the compressor the amp draw will go way up trying to unlock itself. Do you have everything else in the coach turned off? At 1600 watts the samsung will be pulling a large portion of the 2000 watts the inverter has. I would try to plug it in to an AC outlet if you can and let it run for several hours then try the inverter circuit.
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Old 07-08-2016, 06:11 AM   #20
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Mark, just went out and looked on the tag inside the fridge and it states the unit uses 1.1 Amps at 110VAC. I'm sure that is the normal running current draw, not including any defrosting or ice making cycles. 1.1A at 110VAC is approx. 11 Amps on the batteries.
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Old 07-08-2016, 06:25 AM   #21
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Quote:
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Mark, just went out and looked on the tag inside the fridge and it states the unit uses 1.1 Amps at 110VAC. I'm sure that is the normal running current draw, not including any defrosting or ice making cycles. 1.1A at 110VAC is approx. 11 Amps on the batteries.
That's about right for most energy efficient models. Typical running draw is 1.1 to 1.6 amps at 120vac and locked rotor (start-up) is around 6 amps at 120vac. There is usually a sticker on the compressor with the locked rotor spec.
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Old 07-08-2016, 12:12 PM   #22
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I should clarify where I got the 1600 watt usage figure from. I am looking at same install and don't want to replace inverter (2000w) or 4 12v batteries and so I called Samsung and spoke to a tech guy who gave me the 1600 watt figure which seems way high I asked to clarify and he told me that is start up draw. If wagonmaster has one with a tag saying otherwise it seems the tech gave me bad info. I would still try plugging it in to good AC source to get it running. Nice install by the way hope you get it running.
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Old 07-08-2016, 01:50 PM   #23
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Here is a pic of the tag in the refrigerator:
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Old 07-09-2016, 12:16 PM   #24
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new fridge in coach

I have installed the fridge and I sealed off the rear cover and the ceiling vent also. I have noticed the fridge seems to run a lot and the back off fridge gets fairly warm almost hot. Did anybody else close off the vents or leave partially open with the residential change out?
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Old 07-09-2016, 01:37 PM   #25
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I have installed the fridge and I sealed off the rear cover and the ceiling vent also. I have noticed the fridge seems to run a lot and the back off fridge gets fairly warm almost hot. Did anybody else close off the vents or leave partially open with the residential change out?

I have a residential (original Newmar install) reefer and it gets a bit warm at floor level. Not hot, but you can feel the warmth on your feet as you walk by. Basically, it feels exactly the same as our reefer in the S + B. Most residential reefers require side, top, and bottom space for circulation ... not much, but some. It should circulate to the INSIDE of the RV.
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Old 07-09-2016, 02:48 PM   #26
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I have had the RF18 for 1-1/2 years now. I recently installed a ME-BMK monitor and it shows 10 - 13A DC, which is pretty close to what the tag says. Some of the usage is from the inverter and maybe a few other parasitic draws. 4 batteries will work fine to get from A to B. 6 or 8 would be better for any significant dry camping.
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Old 07-09-2016, 03:03 PM   #27
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The way I understand it is the "reserve capacity" figure on a battery indicates how many minutes the battery will run with a 25A draw. I've got two 12v batteries in parallel, each with 180 reserve capacity. So, that's 360 minutes at 25A, which is 6 hours. If the fridge only pulls 10A then I should have about 12 hours of run time, I think. That would certainly get me to the next full hookup CG. I don't boondock, but I can understand it would be an issue if you did.
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Old 07-09-2016, 10:12 PM   #28
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The way I understand it is the "reserve capacity" figure on a battery indicates how many minutes the battery will run with a 25A draw. I've got two 12v batteries in parallel, each with 180 reserve capacity. So, that's 360 minutes at 25A, which is 6 hours. If the fridge only pulls 10A then I should have about 12 hours of run time, I think. That would certainly get me to the next full hookup CG. I don't boondock, but I can understand it would be an issue if you did.
Your charge wire from your truck should supplement the batteries' charge while driving down the road. It may even be able to sustain, depending on the charge rate you are getting through your 7-way plug. At the very least it should extend the amount of time you can run the fridge between hookups.
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