New Norcold DutchAire cooling Unit Installed

[doorguy]

My 2004 Norcold 1201LRIM refer cooling unit failed. Fortunately, it did not catch fire. I've been working with JR at JC Refrigeration in Indiana. They sell and install the DutchAire aftermarket cooling unit made by the Amish. Since I am in CA, it was not practical for me to drive to their location for the install, so
I ordered one and installed it myself. JC's video and subsequent phone calls and emails to JR were invaluable to me and I was able to install it without a hitch.

A huge "shout out" to JC Refrigeration for thoroughly answering all my questions so quickly whether it be a phone call or email. They are very customer service oriented.

BTW, while I'm on the subject, I have two excellent condition lower refer doors that fit the 1210 Norcold. I bought them thinking they would fit mine since my seals are deteriorating, but they weren't compatible with my 1201. [mod edit] I have them listed on this forum under the Classifieds.

[Algonquin]

Did you have any problems lining up the screws from the inside the fridge to the cooling unit? Many posters have had problems.

[F4Gary]

Did you go the conventional compressor system or the gas absorption type?

[Chuck Q]

Mine failed in 26 months

[doorguy]

Algonquin: No, I did not have any problems "lining the screws up" inside. I did have one that the screw didn't quite catch the threads so I went to an ACE hardware and found a SS screw about 1/4" longer and it cinched right down.

F4Gary: I went with the gas absorption type. If we are limited to 30A somewhere, I like the option of switching to a non electric source to save the amps for our basement air which uses both a/c compressors. Also, for dry camping.

ChuckQ: You had an Amish unit that failed?

[Chuck Q]

Yes I did, was only 26 months old. Cost me $2500. Replaced he Norcold 1200 with a residential fridge, total cost for completion was less than $800, and the ice cream is brick hard, also runs of the the inverter. Less than 1Kw per day.

[Algonquin]

Doorguy: Thanks for the feedback on screw alignment on the Amish cooling unit. I have been trying to think of ways to maintain hole alignment as the cooling unit is lowered into the cavity of the fridge. My Norcold is on its last legs and I am contemplating an Amish replacement.

[Jake21]

I am happy with my Amish unit. I suggest the ARP controller as well.

[2 Stroker]

My Norcold died 5 years ago and I installed the Samsung 197 and the best part is Norcold paid me to do it. So far close to $500 in 2 checks and another $500 to come. Love the Samsung, way more room and everything stays cold. In 5 years it has never been turn off and we boon dock 2 to 3 weeks a year.

2 stroker

[Loren Rice]

Originally Posted by 2 Stroker

My Norcold died 5 years ago and I installed the Samsung 197 and the best part is Norcold paid me to do it. So far close to $500 in 2 checks and another $500 to come. Love the Samsung, way more room and everything stays cold. In 5 years it has never been turn off and we boon dock 2 to 3 weeks a year.

2 stroker

So how many batteries are you running .Also do you have a true sinewave inverter?

[2 Stroker]

Originally Posted by Loren Rice

So how many batteries are you running .Also do you have a true sinewave inverter?

I have 4 (6V) batteries. Run the gen-set 2 hrs in the morning then around 7pm run another 2 hrs while getting dinner ready.
I installed the Magnum 2812 PSW inverter, lots better than the Xantrex 458 Freedom that came with the coach. I will be getting new batteries this coming year because the charge time is starting to get longer.
2 stroker

[doorguy]

Algonquin: My unit kind of centered itself in the cavity, however that one hole might have been a tad off but with the longer screw I could find it and screw it in without stripping the threads. If I had it to do again, I would install the unit and have a friend hold it in place while you tip it back up so you can try the interior screws, then if it needs to be fudged a tad here and there for alignment the helper can nudge it while you get the screws started. The sealant and foam spray will be pliable enough for that adjustment, just don't try and lift it back out of the cavity. Just my thoughts if I was to do it again.

[doorguy]

JAKE 21: Glad you mentioned the ARP controller. I had the 2.0 version on my old cooling unit, I just installed it turned it on and it did its thing for the 2.5 yrs it was on there.

So, when I ordered the Amish unit, I called Paul at ARP and told him what I was doing and he said my old ARP would not be compatible; I would need the 4.0 or 4.1(with the fan). I ordered the 4.1 and got it installed, that was the easy part, as I could install the burner temp sensor while the unit was still in the box.

Thus begins my saga: I looked up the ARP website and printed out the 3 manuals. I went thru the start up mode and it "passed" which is step 1. Now, with the Amish unit, the PID(I can't even begin to explain what the PID means) has to be set manually by using the 3 buttons. I read the instructions till my eyes are crossed and they are so convoluted, I could not figure out the correct way to set the PID.

I called Paul and told him the instruction video was on his site was on my computer in the house and not near the refer where I can watch the video and follow step by step. When I try to remember the video, by the time I relocate to the motorhome, I've lost it in my mind. I emailed Paul and asked if we could just set a time to do a phone call and just have him walk me thru it while I have my fingers near the buttons. He told me he was in a bad cell phone reception area and to read the manuals. Really???? I tried that and I'm just as confused as I was before, so right now, I have a $170 ARP all hooked up but not wired in to the refer circuit yet. I'm going to try one more time when I have some alone time to concentrate.

[Jake21]

Originally Posted by doorguy

JAKE 21: Glad you mentioned the ARP controller. I had the 2.0 version on my old cooling unit, I just installed it turned it on and it did its thing for the 2.5 yrs it was on there.

So, when I ordered the Amish unit, I called Paul at ARP and told him what I was doing and he said my old ARP would not be compatible; I would need the 4.0 or 4.1(with the fan). I ordered the 4.1 and got it installed, that was the easy part, as I could install the burner temp sensor while the unit was still in the box.

Thus begins my saga: I looked up the ARP website and printed out the 3 manuals. I went thru the start up mode and it "passed" which is step 1. Now, with the Amish unit, the PID(I can't even begin to explain what the PID means) has to be set manually by using the 3 buttons. I read the instructions till my eyes are crossed and they are so convoluted, I could not figure out the correct way to set the PID.

I called Paul and told him the instruction video was on his site was on my computer in the house and not near the refer where I can watch the video and follow step by step. When I try to remember the video, by the time I relocate to the motorhome, I've lost it in my mind. I emailed Paul and asked if we could just set a time to do a phone call and just have him walk me thru it while I have my fingers near the buttons. He told me he was in a bad cell phone reception area and to read the manuals. Really???? I tried that and I'm just as confused as I was before, so right now, I have a $170 ARP all hooked up but not wired in to the refer circuit yet. I'm going to try one more time when I have some alone time to concentrate.

I would try calling him again. I talked with him last week and the reception was good. Perhaps he was on the road as he is an RVer.
J