Community Forums

Milehghcty · 07-18-2016, 07:26 PM

Norcold 1200 LRIM .. 10 year old fridge that had the cooling unit replaced in January 2016 (by previous owner and best I can tell an aftermarket unit). I've searched this site and learned a lot on the Norcold refrigerators. I did get the "no co" (no cold) error code and learned enough to do the reset on the control board. But after turning the fridge back on and just short of 3 hours, reverts back to the "no co" error. Did this reset several times with the same results. Tried both A/C and gas. Pulled the cover off top of coach and no bird nests or bee hives -- it is clear. Placed a fan in the outside bottom blowing upwards and tried again after reset and still same thing ... just short of 3 hours goes to "no co". The freezer starts to cool but the fins in the back of the fridge do not get cool to the touch which looking at bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/reset.pdf is why the control board shuts the burner down. The control board senses the fins through the thermistor and if not below 50 degrees, shuts down the burner after 2 hours then turns burner back on for 40 more minutes where it senses the fins at 10 minute intervals and if still not below 50 degrees shuts down and shows the "no co" error. Does anyone know what else I can trouble shoot as to why the fins won't cool or something else to check before I jump to replacing the cooling unit (or fridge) again? Don't really want to go the residential route as do dry camp about a week a year, but plugged in the other 5 months that we travel.

More-Gas · 07-18-2016, 07:35 PM

My NorCold did the same thing a week ago I took it to a dealer and they showed me how to do a reset on the board, the guy told me if our MH is out of level by 3deg it will go to that error code. When I got home I made sure it was level and all was good during or 8 day trip. Pretty new at the MH thing but hope this helps.

**Lt Dan** · 07-18-2016, 10:13 PM

Try disconnecting the thermistor from the light socket area. That will put the unit in failsafe or backup operating system mode. This should let the cooling unit run without regulation to see if it is cooling at all. If it still doesn't cool the fins down after a day, then it may be the unit. If it does cool, it could be the thermistor or the control board.

Milehghcty · 07-18-2016, 10:42 PM

Thanks for the additional info. The coach is level in the garage and was level at the campsite a couple of weeks ago when it first thru the code. Haven't read anywhere about disconnecting the thermistor so will give that a try. Does this remove the safety features built in as don't want to burn down my coach and garage (and the other vehicles in the garage)?

Oldelevatorman · 07-18-2016, 11:05 PM

Chuck it and put in a residential for about a quarter of the price. We were going to do that with our Itasca Horizon but then we retired and ended up downsizing to a TT! If you have solar and plenty of batteries that imho is the way I'd go! All the new MH's have them. I just got tired of ours never working right, always having to check the temp etc, etc! Can you tell I hate them?

MSHappyCampers · 07-19-2016, 10:20 AM

Did you look behind the fridge for any yellow residue that would indicate the cooling unit is leaking? I replaced my cooling unit in 2012 and it developed a leak this year, so I'm having to replace it again! It was showing the same code as yours!

It was manufactured by JC Refrigeration and Junior was kind enough to give me a replacement, even though it was out of warranty! I bought the unit from David Force at RV Cooling Unit Warehouse!

Doc Mark · 07-19-2016, 07:06 PM

Just my 2 ¢ but it is a ten year old unit that is notorious for problems anyway (and not minor problems either - like FIRE).

You said you do not want a residential electric fridge, so expect to pay nearly triple the cost of an electric one, and you still have the potential for a life threatening fire.

For my money the electric residential fridge is the only way to go.

Mark

gatorcq · 07-20-2016, 05:04 PM

First Trouble Shooting manual - Read up on the No Co fault and do the inspection.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6...XpZeDVqYTk0ZjQ

How to do a No Co reset
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6...UxYzU1OWZkZWY0

Finally, do not blame me if your Norcold catches fire because you did not follow the instructions. You are responsible, and you alone

Sorry, for being direct. The info I have provided is freely available on the internet, if you would have done a web search by Google or Bing or Yahoo

Milehghcty · 07-20-2016, 07:37 PM

Thanks all for the info and links ... I have all the info and more. At this point I've read everything I can get my hands on and tested and reset the board, but hadn't read anywhere on unplugging the thermistor so that is something new. There is no yellow residue at the cooling unit or anywhere else. The cooling unit was replaced this past January ... trying to get a hold of the previous owner to see what the warranty may have been. He had it changed out in Mission, Texas and I'm in SD so the warranty probably won't make any difference since I can't get to the mobile unit that replaced it for him. I think is was a rebuilt unit that was installed (the best I can tell). Contacted Norcold on the recall and they said it was done on the original cooling unit and that the replacement doesn't need it (guess some safety factors must be already in place). I'm not at home at the moment, but when I return I'll try the thermistor test and hope for the best. Perhaps I should consider a RR fridge after looking at the prices of these overly priced Norcolds!! They must be made out of gold!

Milehghcty · 07-20-2016, 09:10 PM

MSHappyCampers == Thanks ... checked out RV Cooling Unit Warehouse. They do have fair prices. Wish I was closer to Shipshewana as their package deal for replacement of cooling unit is a good price. What will the labor charge be to have your cooling unit changed out after you get the new unit? Just trying to get an idea of costs.

MSHappyCampers · 07-21-2016, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Milehghcty

MSHappyCampers == Thanks ... checked out RV Cooling Unit Warehouse. They do have fair prices. Wish I was closer to Shipshewana as their package deal for replacement of cooling unit is a good price. What will the labor charge be to have your cooling unit changed out after you get the new unit? Just trying to get an idea of costs.

I will do it myself, with the help of a friend!

Milehghcty · 07-22-2016, 10:23 PM

Lt Dan. I did unplug the thermistor to put in fail safe mode ... and did not cool in the freezer (or lower fridge) after about 2-3 hours at all (it did previously cool in the freezer prior to throwing the "no co" code). I've plugged the thermistor back in and restarted the unit to see what happens now after a couple of hours and assuming it will again throw the no co code.

Next step ... but not sure how to test the heating elements, but somewhere in all my reading I read somewhere if they are only 90% of new then that would also throw the no co code as doesn't get hot enough. Still don't think it's my rebuilt cooling unit as I can't see any leaks nor is there any smell. This is frustrating trying to figure out what you need to buy to fix ... hate to get another cooling unit only to find it was the control board ... or get a new control board only to find out it is probably the cooling unit.

Milehghcty · 07-22-2016, 10:30 PM

I did find how to check the heating elements at this location. Now just need to figure out how to do this ...
https://www.arprv.com/norcold-ac-heater.php

MSHappyCampers · 07-23-2016, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Milehghcty

Lt Dan. I did unplug the thermistor to put in fail safe mode ... and did not cool in the freezer (or lower fridge) after about 2-3 hours at all (it did previously cool in the freezer prior to throwing the "no co" code). I've plugged the thermistor back in and restarted the unit to see what happens now after a couple of hours and assuming it will again throw the no co code.

Next step ... but not sure how to test the heating elements, but somewhere in all my reading I read somewhere if they are only 90% of new then that would also throw the no co code as doesn't get hot enough. Still don't think it's my rebuilt cooling unit as I can't see any leaks nor is there any smell. This is frustrating trying to figure out what you need to buy to fix ... hate to get another cooling unit only to find it was the control board ... or get a new control board only to find out it is probably the cooling unit.

You can't expect much of anything in 2-3 hours! Try it overnight and see what happens!