Community Forums

akpd · 06-03-2019, 07:57 AM

Anyone know about how often the cooling fans cycle on/off on a 80-90 degree day?

Jake21 · 06-03-2019, 08:27 AM

Not exactly, but I can tell you that mine are on almost all the time when it is in that temp range outside.

**Lt Dan** · 06-03-2019, 08:45 AM

Same with ours in our Itasca. When it was hot out the fans would run almost continuously.

akpd · 06-03-2019, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by akpd

Anyone know about how often the cooling fans cycle on/off on a 80-90 degree day?

Well guys you will find this interesting...

I purchased my MH last year from the original owner. The fridg. has worked, well ok at #9 setting so I though I would do some researching & trouble-shooting. Never knew there are two cooling fans on my unit as I have never heard them running. First thing to check was voltage from circuit board all was good, next jumpered around fan switch on the coil still nothing. I remembered reading a comment about the power to the fans having the polarity wired incorrectly, switched polarity & fans turned on.

Well this probably happened when a service center did the Norcold recall & the previous owner never realized the fans not running, I assume the polarity has been like this for many years.

Old-Biscuit · 06-03-2019, 12:22 PM

Norcold OEM Fans use a thermostat to control fans on/off

T-stat is attached to Condenser Fin and uses FIN Temp as set point

At 135*F FIN Temp t-stat closes..fans turn on
At 115*F FIN Temp t-stat opens. fans turn off

12V DC + can be from the DC Terminal Block on backside of fridge....with in-line fuse (1A or 3A)
OR the DC + can be directly from circuit board

(Depends on model/production run)

akpd · 06-03-2019, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Norcold OEM Fans use a thermostat to control fans on/off

T-stat is attached to Condenser Fin and uses FIN Temp as set point

At 135*F FIN Temp t-stat closes..fans turn on
At 115*F FIN Temp t-stat opens. fans turn off

12V DC + can be from the DC Terminal Block on backside of fridge....with in-line fuse (1A or 3A)
OR the DC + can be directly from circuit board

(Depends on model/production run)

Thermostat (bimetal snap switch) thanks yes I know was up on the roof today, removed the screen to get at the switch. I appreciate the info on the
on the temperature range, I'm going to order a different switch with a lower closing temperature.

cletesingler · 06-22-2019, 06:08 PM

akpd,

Did you find a new thermostat for the fridge and what are the temp ranges? On my Norcold 1210IM 12 cu ft 4 door gas/electric in a 2014 5th wheel, I heard on start up, the fan(s?) running and drawing air, but in the TX heat with the fridge at 40 degF and very cold freezer, I don't hear the fans. I would hope for cooler fridge if the extremely hot fins were cooler! I am about to add a set of fans in the upper access panel assuming the fridge will get cooler, especially in a normal typical 105 degF TX day. Will extra fans, that suck out the air at the upper access panel, help cool the lower fridge?

New issue: with direct sunlight on the slide with fridge, I notice that some of the FL full time RVs shade the portion of the slide with the fridge with a extra add-on tarp well tied down for the wind. And, it helps....?

akpd · 06-23-2019, 01:19 PM

Well I didn't replace the thermostat yet, I just removed it and put a jumper wire... the fans run all the time when the fridge is on. Fridge temps are about 2-3 degrees colder with the fans running (AC mode).

cletesingler · 06-23-2019, 06:15 PM

akpd,

Reading about our issue, I fear that continuously running those fans may not be the best idea, and we may need a means to turn them ON and OFF - in the winter, my fridge is very cold, in the summer it's very hot (today it hit 95 degF and the fridge (empty) was 45 degF, but the freezer was ice cold and making ice!). I also get the impression that the fins need to be an exact temperature to keep the ammonia at an exact temperature that is the most efficient. I will change out the thermostat if it's not too expensive. The fridge will cool down overnight before we hit the road, assuming the temps get below 80 degF - last night in DFW it was a low of 81 degF.

cletesingler · 06-27-2019, 06:43 PM

akpd,

Just returned from trip to Lake Waco with temps in the 90's and cool down to 75 degF at night. The fridge temp rose to 44 degF in the daytime with bright sun baking that side of the RV. But, one day with no sunshine, and the fridge stayed 37-39 degF - that is almost acceptable. RV is perfectly level, no codes and the function "4" on the diagnostic readout (fridge interior cooling fins) is "30" degF! I installed two 8-inch D-cell fans in front of the interior fins, and they do move the air around inside, but don't help cool the fridge. All this while the freezer is 16-17 degF and making lots of ice. I'm anxious to hear if running the installed exhaust fans below the cooling fins is effective day and night, and, more important, a good summer-only fix wherein I can add the jumper (around the thermostat) and forget it until winter? I assume the fans are the usual 0.5 watts each, and I can stand that battery drain (2 wet cell size 27 batteries more than 1.5 years old) while dry camping overnight at WalMart? When this Norcold 1210 is working well, it's enjoyable, but in this TX heat, I worry when I see 45 degF in the fridge - but there is plenty of ice! Maybe cut a hole in the freezer and draw freezer air into the fridge?

akpd · 06-28-2019, 04:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cletesingler

akpd,

Just returned from trip to Lake Waco with temps in the 90's and cool down to 75 degF at night. The fridge temp rose to 44 degF in the daytime with bright sun baking that side of the RV. But, one day with no sunshine, and the fridge stayed 37-39 degF - that is almost acceptable. RV is perfectly level, no codes and the function "4" on the diagnostic readout (fridge interior cooling fins) is "30" degF! I installed two 8-inch D-cell fans in front of the interior fins, and they do move the air around inside, but don't help cool the fridge. All this while the freezer is 16-17 degF and making lots of ice. I'm anxious to hear if running the installed exhaust fans below the cooling fins is effective day and night, and, more important, a good summer-only fix wherein I can add the jumper (around the thermostat) and forget it until winter? I assume the fans are the usual 0.5 watts each, and I can stand that battery drain (2 wet cell size 27 batteries more than 1.5 years old) while dry camping overnight at WalMart? When this Norcold 1210 is working well, it's enjoyable, but in this TX heat, I worry when I see 45 degF in the fridge - but there is plenty of ice! Maybe cut a hole in the freezer and draw freezer air into the fridge?

From what Jake21 said earlier in this tread, his fans run all the time when the temp. is 80-90 degrees outside.

1. I would temporarily place a fan blowing upwards in your assess panel to see how the added exhaust effects
the temp.
2.You could also test the thermistor that is attached to the fins inside the fridg. if you unplug it from the control board fridg. will go to 100% output, however I would try one test at a time to see results.

cletesingler · 06-28-2019, 05:57 PM

Just talked with James at Norcold, nice fellow who listened to our story,and my usual complaints about the TX heat. If the external fans are running/operating then adding more fans to the intake or exhaust access panels probably won't help much - and add a full watt of load on old batteries while parked at Walmart overnight. The OEM external fans are NOT designed to run continuously and will very soon fail (earlier than designed). James heard my plea about sunlight baking the slideout that houses the fridge, and he agrees that it's probably at least 5 degF increase for just a few hours of direct sunlight, and yes a means to shade the slideout would mean 5 less degF! His recommendation: disconnect but don't remove the thermostat on the inside fins so they cool continuously day and night during the summer and reconnect it in the winter (winter in TX is any temp below 80!) The temps for external fin cooling are really only to avoid extremely hot temps in the ammonia, and the ammonia can easily withstand cooler temps (from more cooling of the external fins) almost down to freezing, when ammonia will not work in the fridge. James agrees that my adding 2 8-inch D-cell fans in front of the internal fins will not help cool the fridge. And, lock the fridge doors, as one opening will add 10 degF in a hurry to the fridge temp!

akpd · 06-29-2019, 05:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cletesingler

Just talked with James at Norcold, nice fellow who listened to our story,and my usual complaints about the TX heat. If the external fans are running/operating then adding more fans to the intake or exhaust access panels probably won't help much - and add a full watt of load on old batteries while parked at Walmart overnight. The OEM external fans are NOT designed to run continuously and will very soon fail (earlier than designed). James heard my plea about sunlight baking the slideout that houses the fridge, and he agrees that it's probably at least 5 degF increase for just a few hours of direct sunlight, and yes a means to shade the slideout would mean 5 less degF! His recommendation: disconnect but don't remove the thermostat on the inside fins so they cool continuously day and night during the summer and reconnect it in the winter (winter in TX is any temp below 80!) The temps for external fin cooling are really only to avoid extremely hot temps in the ammonia, and the ammonia can easily withstand cooler temps (from more cooling of the external fins) almost down to freezing, when ammonia will not work in the fridge. James agrees that my adding 2 8-inch D-cell fans in front of the internal fins will not help cool the fridge. And, lock the fridge doors, as one opening will add 10 degF in a hurry to the fridge temp!

Thanks for your research, I think I will replace my exhaust fans when/if they fail with ones with bearings instead of bushings, I use these fans in industrial electrical control cabinets all the time & they run for years 24/7.
The internal D-cell fans will not cool any better but your temperature uniformity will improve especially if your fridg. is loaded heavily.

rrtribble · 06-29-2019, 07:30 AM

cletesingler,

"disconnect but don't remove the thermostat on the inside fins so they cool continuously day and night during the summer and reconnect it in the winter"

Just went out and checked my unit. It is 76F right now and sun shines on rear of coach. It is empty and set on 9 with fridge temp at 37*. With it rising to 90+ today it will climb to 48*.

Sooooooo, my inside thermistor (thermostat) is direct wired to the fridge light. The light cover was stuck so I didn't remove it. My assumption is that it is plugged in (hope so). Is this where you unplugged it? OR is there a plug on the control board?

Thanks in advance - Richard