Norcold 1200, near the end??

[smlranger]

My nearly 10 yr old Norcold 1200LRIM is acting up (just before heading out for a weekend trip, no less). Freezer temp was up to 28F 3 days ago, fridge temp seems OK. Next day, freezer temp down to about 3F. Now this evening as we are loading the beans and skivvies in the coach, freezer is up to 30F.

I'm thinking it must/might be a control board??? If the cooling unit was heading south, would think it would just quit cooling at all or at least freezer temp would stay up.

Any ideas, suggestions? Oh, have already checked on residential fridge to replace the thing if necessary and have found a local custom coach shop that will do the work .

[Sammie]

Quote:

Originally Posted by smlranger My nearly 10 yr old Norcold 1200LRIM is acting up (just before heading out for a weekend trip, no less). Freezer temp was up to 28F 3 days ago, fridge temp seems OK. Next day, freezer temp down to about 3F. Now this evening as we are loading the beans and skivvies in the coach, freezer is up to 30F. I'm thinking it must/might be a control board??? If the cooling unit was heading south, would think it would just quit cooling at all or at least freezer temp would stay up. Any ideas, suggestions? Oh, have already checked on residential fridge to replace the thing if necessary and have found a local custom coach shop that will do the work .

smlranger, I've been told that if you disconnect the 110 volt heating elements at the control board and wire them direct to a 110 volt source you will be bypassing the control board. By doing this your fridge should work full time and get to it's coldest point unless of course the cooling unit is going bad. You may have a floating blockage.



You can see the 110 volt heating element wires on the left side of the board. Two yellow and two black.

Good Luck,
Sammie

[Gerall]

"Near the end" is a statement that can likely me made on any Norcold 1200 series. Even ones with the factory recalls done seem to have more issues functioning properly.

["007"]

It could be the control board but before the change clean with a contact spray all wire connections and and power lugs and give it a try. Check the 12V power connections at board and fuse panel.
My 1200 works great just watching the cooling coils so next move will be Amish cooling unit change out.

[smlranger]

Update: It was simple. There was some ice left in the ice maker from a previous trip and, even though the bail was up, the ice remained in the tray. So, the ice maker was periodically trying to heat up that ice prior to dumping it. Not sure why it did not dump. This is a new ice maker I installed this summer.

So, I turned on my pump and lowered the bail. Ice maker dumped the load of ice and proceeded to make good ice overnight. It seems to be working fine for now.

[RV Wizard]

Not enough water in the mold will allow the rake (Fingers that rotate ice out) to bind up on top of the ice at about the 6 O clock position thus stalling the motor and keeping the heating element on for harvest. When the ice melted enough the rake would finish its rotation; the cycle would end and the water would refreeze. You do have a problem in the module if the ice maker continues to go into harvest cycles with the arm up. Since the water supply was not on the ice maker added no water and the same low water level would stall out the rake at every harvest cycle; thus bringing the freezer temperature up.