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Norcold 1200 to Amish cooling unit
07-02-2011, 03:34 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 7
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This is a how to video on changing out my Norcold 1200 with a new Amish cooling unit from RV cooling unit warehouse. M/H is a 1999 Monaco Diplomat, with a two year old Norcold 1200.
Willie
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07-02-2011, 07:28 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 50
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Great install video.
Pretty fast install to, just a little over 13 minutes!
Thanks for the video.
CoryP
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2000 Monaco Windsor -tugging on a 26' stacker full of toys.
1100 watts of solar, feeding 6 AGM's, which run the Samsung RF197.
Banks PowerPack pumping up the 8.3l to 425hp. Koni's & sway bars keep it straight.
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07-03-2011, 07:05 AM
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#3
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Community Moderator
Nor'easters Club Newmar Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Salisbury,Ma. 01952
Posts: 13,621
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Welcome snowsurfer56 to irv2.
Excellent presentation & video for your first post to irv2.
Why was it necessary on fairly new fridge to replace cooling unit?
Were you following posts on irv2 that may have cause you to make the decision to make the move.
If your first post is any indication will be looking forward to your future posts.
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07-03-2011, 10:47 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Full Timers - Where ever we're parked.
Posts: 509
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Willie,
Great video thanks. I have a Norcold 1200LRIM and a new Amish CU waiting to be installed and your video helps a lot. I do have a few questions.
1. Did you re-install the same fans or different ones, the bracket looks different.
2. Can you do the install without removing the doors?
3. Did you install the dino board because the old one failed or you just wanted to upgrade?
4. How long did the job take from removing the old to powering up the new?
Great idea to insulate the DC leads, I planned on doing the same thing
Thanks again for the video.
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Paul - WA1IWH
Margaret - She who must be obeyed.
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07-03-2011, 01:28 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 22
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Yes, snowsurfer56 made a great video.  His install was done the hardest way. I have replaced a lot of 1200 Norcold cooling units. I never remove the doors and I always lay refrigerator down to remove and install cooling unit, this way it will lay in place rather trying to hold it up inplace. As he shows it does not take $100 PLUS PER HOUR SERVICE TECH to do a change out. Of course there's more to a change out than just set in place screw down, that's what most RV tech's will do an blame the cooling unit when the cooling is not were it belongs.
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07-03-2011, 02:02 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,023
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BRAVO.That was incredible. Thank you
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 2008 35e Bounder F53 V-10 Ford, 2009 HHR LT2 ,SMI stay-n-play duo, TST tpms.
Cliff,Tallulah and Buddy( 13 year old Shih-tzu )
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07-06-2011, 03:07 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 43
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Great Video Snowsurfer56,
Good choice on the Dinosaur Control Bd too. You can sleep soundly tonight!
Thanks for the fantastic video, it really brings home how easy it can be!
Mike
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2003 Chevy 3500 Dually LT Duramax/Allison LB7
2006 KZ Escalade 37' Sportsman ToyHauler
2002 Fatboy ~ Julie's; 2006 RoadGlide ~Mike's
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07-07-2011, 06:24 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by "007"
Welcome snowsurfer56 to irv2.
Excellent presentation & video for your first post to irv2.
Why was it necessary on fairly new fridge to replace cooling unit?
Were you following posts on irv2 that may have cause you to make the decision to make the move.
If your first post is any indication will be looking forward to your future posts. 
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Thank you 007. Looking forward to participating in the forums.
The M/H we purchased had a fridge fire, it was replaced with a refurbished fridge that never worked right, and after several visits to two different repair shops, this is what we were told.
First repair shop visit: Reset control board, $260.00, fridge did not work.
Second visit to same repair shop: Was told the control board was bad, $800.00 estimate, researched and decided on the Dinosaur board. Fridge still did not work.
Third visit to different repair shop: Was told the cooling unit was bad. Estimate, $2400.00,
purchased the new c/u and installed myself.
This decision was made after reading many forums posts here ans elsewhere.
Willie
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07-07-2011, 06:33 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dforce1
Yes, snowsurfer56 made a great video.  His install was done the hardest way. I have replaced a lot of 1200 Norcold cooling units. I never remove the doors and I always lay refrigerator down to remove and install cooling unit, this way it will lay in place rather trying to hold it up inplace. As he shows it does not take $100 PLUS PER HOUR SERVICE TECH to do a change out. Of course there's more to a change out than just set in place screw down, that's what most RV tech's will do an blame the cooling unit when the cooling is not were it belongs.
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David, I agree that the doors do not have to be removed, I removed them so that I had more room to get around the fridge, easier access to interior screws, and it was very easy to remove them. As far as laying the fridge down, It is very heavy,and I did the job myself with no help, it would take up more floor space, it would limit access to interior screws. It was very easy to line up the screw holes and keep the c/u in place while doing so. The important thing is, that my fridge finally works, and it works well. I'm a very happy camper.
Willie
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07-07-2011, 06:47 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tincup
Willie,
Great video thanks. I have a Norcold 1200LRIM and a new Amish CU waiting to be installed and your video helps a lot. I do have a few questions.
1. Did you re-install the same fans or different ones, the bracket looks different.
2. Can you do the install without removing the doors?
3. Did you install the dino board because the old one failed or you just wanted to upgrade?
4. How long did the job take from removing the old to powering up the new?
Great idea to insulate the DC leads, I planned on doing the same thing
Thanks again for the video.
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@Tincup in answer to your questions,
1. I installed new fans, ten dollars each from radio shack, and a new bracket made from 1" x 1" aluminum angle.
2. The job can be done without removing the doors, I thought it would easier to get around the fridge, and have easier access to the screws inside.
3. After a visit to a RV repair shop, I was told the control board was bad, and an estimate of about 800 dollars, I decided to replace the board myself, the fridge still did not work, but decided a new board couldn't hurt.
4. Over the course of 2 days, I worked about 8 hours, I did take my time, to make the video and also to keep the job clean by zip tying all wires, replacing some of the electrical connectors, installing a new ice maker water shut off valve and new lp supply line and shut off valve.
I know that holding take at the bottom of the c/u gets warm, and the ac wires lay across that tank, so decided to insulate.
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07-13-2011, 03:39 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Lakeside RV Park, Livingston LA
Posts: 555
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I think my DW can do this next time my fridge goes out. Great job!!!
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07 Pace Arrow 38P & 07 Liberty 4x4
How's that hope and change working for you???
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07-13-2011, 04:03 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 765
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Snowsurfer, thanks for the vid. I also have the same fridge, mine works great till we move down the interstate. Within 45 miles the temp starts to rise. I'm curious if you also had this problem. After the Amish upgrade, did it help while on the move? I and many more are at my limit on this. I just want to fix the problem for good. Thanks in advance.
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07-13-2011, 05:12 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 336muffin
Snowsurfer, thanks for the vid. I also have the same fridge, mine works great till we move down the interstate. Within 45 miles the temp starts to rise. I'm curious if you also had this problem. After the Amish upgrade, did it help while on the move? I and many more are at my limit on this. I just want to fix the problem for good. Thanks in advance.
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You have an air leak. The foam pack was not installed correct. If you private message me with an email address I can go into more details and email back a picture. Most all RV Tech's will not seal it correct. A replacement cooling does not go back the same way a OEM cooling unit is removed.
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07-14-2011, 04:17 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 765
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PM sent, thanks
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