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raywaller · 08-18-2019, 03:05 PM

I have a Norcold Model 1210ACIM that had the cooling system replaced 12 months ago, but the power plug and associated outlet box melted just recently. My coach, which is a 2007 Travel Supreme ME, is kept in my airconditioned barn. I'm going to replace the melted components, but I don't know what part of the Norcold might be bad or might cause so much current draw. I'm wondering if the muffin fans, which I'm assuming are located at the top back of the fridge, have failed and caused the fridge cooling system to try and compensate for too much heat. Can someone please tell me how to confirm that the fans are working, and to please make suggestions about other things I should consider. The 20 amp circuit breaker did trip, but I'm concerned about how much damage occurred. Now I know why I sleep near the exit door, when we take trips.

akpd · 08-19-2019, 04:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raywaller

I have a Norcold Model 1210ACIM that had the cooling system replaced 12 months ago, but the power plug and associated outlet box melted just recently. My coach, which is a 2007 Travel Supreme ME, is kept in my airconditioned barn. I'm going to replace the melted components, but I don't know what part of the Norcold might be bad or might cause so much current draw. I'm wondering if the muffin fans, which I'm assuming are located at the top back of the fridge, have failed and caused the fridge cooling system to try and compensate for too much heat. Can someone please tell me how to confirm that the fans are working, and to please make suggestions about other things I should consider. The 20 amp circuit breaker did trip, but I'm concerned about how much damage occurred. Now I know why I sleep near the exit door, when we take trips.

Do you have a amp meter to check the current draw (load) if so check the current at receptacle first in AC mode then in propane mode. If memory serves me correctly in AC mode mine current draw is about 5 amps,(heating elements).

mule · 08-19-2019, 05:12 AM

Has anyone add a third A/C to the forest river 415 thunderbolt amp 2015 need more air

fcbbob15 · 08-19-2019, 05:41 AM

May not be high amp draw from refrigerator. A loose connection anywhere at your outlet or plug can cause over heating, happens a lot. (bad connection amps go up) Start by replacing all of the burnt components. Do not use the receptacle that the wires push in, use screw terminals only. When done check amp draw at breaker as AKPD suggest in electric mode. As far as fans if they are at the top of the vent you can remove the cover to check operation. Good time to make sure the screen is clean also. If you have an ARP control the fans may not start until hot enough. The control does allow you to do a manual test. If you don't have an ARP I recommend getting one for your safety. Hope this helps.

akpd · 08-19-2019, 05:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fcbbob15

May not be high amp draw from refrigerator. A loose connection anywhere at your outlet or plug can cause over heating, happens a lot. (bad connection amps go up) Start by replacing all of the burnt components. Do not use the receptacle that the wires push in, use screw terminals only. When done check amp draw at breaker as AKPD suggest in electric mode. As far as fans if they are at the top of the vent you can remove the cover to check operation. Good time to make sure the screen is clean also. If you have an ARP control the fans may not start until hot enough. The control does allow you to do a manual test. If you don't have an ARP I recommend getting one for your safety. Hope this helps.

Let me add to this, according to my elec. schematic the 12xx is fused at 8 amps, surprised it didn't blow the fuse. My unit has the optional ice maker that is fused separately, you're right most likely a loose wire at receptacle.

raywaller · 08-19-2019, 06:47 AM

I have a multi-meter that measures amperage, so after I get and install the new parts I'll try measuring the current draw. I guess (and hope) the plug has just failed due to age and hours of usage, and that the Norcold is ok. Do I need to try and replace the dual-receptacle with what came with the coach (supports push-in wire connections only), or cant I use a standard "outdoor" dual-receptacle box (if it will fit in the space allowed)? Since I don't have any vents on the outside of the coach that would be about where the fans would be located, maybe there aren't any fans (or the vent on the roof). I'm too old to get up there. I turn 80 at the end of this month. Can still ride my HDs though! Any way, thanks for all your suggestions, and I'll keep you posted.

fcbbob15 · 08-19-2019, 07:07 AM

Just use a standard 15 or 20 amp receptacle like your home uses. Since you have a 20 amp breaker 20 would be fine and a little heavier duty. The important thing in my opinion is screw terminals, much more secure in an RV. The box can be your choice, I prefer metal. When your done if the amp draw is good don't worry about the fans as much. You may be able to tell if they are working from below. Mine didn't come with fans I added them when I installed the ARP control. Please keep us posted.

Old-Biscuit · 08-19-2019, 12:44 PM

Norcold Model 1210ACIM--------120VAC model with Ice Maker

No propane/no DC heater elements
Just 2 AC heater Elements with DC for controls

5A AC fuse to protect AC circuits ON the circuit board and elements
5A DC fuse to protect DC circuits/controls

AC Power Cord/plug protected by RV AC Circuit Breaker

Fridge Power cord/outlet melted.........loose connections/bad wiring/worn out cord plug
Nothing to do with fridge components.

Replace the power cord
Replace the outlet

What I do NOT understand is WHY this fridge is in your RV????
Your RV does NOT have lower access/vent opening or a roof vent.
This Norocld although it is AC ONLY it is an absorption fridge (2 heater elements heat ammonia for cooling process)

So was this AC Only absorption fridge a replacement for a residential fridge?????

Something is NOT right?

Ray,IN · 08-19-2019, 07:15 PM

The 120VAC heating elements should be tested too. Here are the owners, parts, and installation manuals for the 1210ACIM unit.

Old-Biscuit · 08-19-2019, 09:17 PM

OP......raywaller

Can you respond and answer......
What I do NOT understand is WHY this fridge is in your RV????
Your RV does NOT have lower access/vent opening or a roof vent.
This Norocld although it is AC ONLY it is an absorption fridge (2 heater elements heat ammonia for cooling process)
So was this AC Only absorption fridge a replacement for a residential fridge?????
Something is NOT right?

???????

raywaller · 08-20-2019, 05:45 PM

We bought our 2007 Travel Supreme ME (mid-engine) 42 foot 400 HP Cummins Diesel motorhome new and it still has the same Norcold fridge that came with it (Model 1210IM). Cummins Diesel of Atlanta repaired our Norcold last year by replacing the cooling package. I left the fridge running, while the motorhome was parked in our airconditioned barn, until I found it had stopped running. That is when I found the Norcold's power plug and associated receptacle box had melted. The 20 amp circuit breaker, located in the master bed room, was tripped. The cooling package is partially accessible via a removable louvered panel located on the outside of the motorhome and directly behind the Norcold. At this point, I do not know if the heat is dissipated via the louvered panel, or if outside air is pulled through the louvered panel by small fans that exhaust the heated air via a roof cap. I intend to have someone check the roof for any kind of breather cap on the roof directly above the back-edge of the fridge. I'm also going to ask Cummins Diesel if they found small fans at the top back edge of the fridge, when they gained full access to the back of the fridge by pulling the fridge away from the internal wall and into the kitchen area. I'll keep you posted on what we find.

Old-Biscuit · 08-20-2019, 09:56 PM

OK.....
THere ARE external vents for this AC only absorption fridge.
Lower sidewall AND roof vent

If fridge is IN a slideout then it should have fans.....they would be center mid-level (just above the absorber tubes...large slanted tubes) and controlled by a t-stat attached to Condenser Fin (at top of fridge)

If fridge is NOT in a slideout then probably doesn't have fans just relies on natural draft .......air in via lower vent and then out the roof top vent (just like a fireplace chimney)

raywaller · 09-26-2019, 12:03 PM

I've finally received a new AC power cable from Norcold (via Camping World), but have concluded that my old multi-meter is not what I want to use to measure current flow. I'm going to get a new clamp meter that will measure the current without being in-line with the wiring. However, I would like to troubleshoot the heating elements, but I'm not sure what to look for. I'm also wondering if I should be concerned about the integrity of the wiring that is between the main circuit breaker panel (which is located in the bedroom wall) and the receptacle that melted; the receptacle was located behind the Norcold and even though undercover, it was exposed to heat, dust, cold, and humidity.

raywaller · 10-28-2019, 01:57 PM

I have replaced the power receptacle box, receptacle and Norcold power cord; the receptacle box is for outside use and includes a 20 amp GFI. The Norcold is now working fine.

However, now I have drained NorthStar chassis batteries (2) that are only 18 months old. When I removed the batteries, I found one heavy gauge cable with 12 volts DC on it. I'm assuming that would be the cable carrying the charging amperage, so will still have to get a clamp meter and measure the charging amperage to see why the batteries discharged; the coach has been on shore power for 9 months. Does anyone out there know what the typical voltage range should be across the batteries when the charger is functioning properly. I realize the amperage will vary, depending on what has just occurred, but what should I expect: 1) when on shore power, 2) when generator is running, 3) when main diesel is running?

I love our TS ME, and wouldn't trade the memories it has made possible for anything. But it hasn't come without learning curves (e.g., it's all electric; it has a diesel burner for furnace heat and hot water) and surprises (e.g., the manufacturing people did not include bottom access to the generator for oil and filter changes; a hole had to be cut through a steel plate to gain access; ridiculous). I'll save the rest for RV park campfire sharing.

Many thanks to everyone out there! You guys have been extremely helpful over the years, both in addressing my specific posts, but also providing responses to others. I have spent hours reading your inputs about various subjects; it's contagious, but so interesting and useful. Great website! Great members!