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Old 07-24-2017, 12:23 AM   #1
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Norcold blows 3 amp fuse when switched to LP

Norcold 878eg2 immediatly blows the 3 amp fuse on the circuit board when switched onto LP.

A/C side with the 5 amp fuse, works fine as long as a new 3 amp fuse is replaced onto the LP side of the circuit board.

Ideas please?
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Old 07-24-2017, 12:29 AM   #2
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Possible , shorted LP solenoid , disconnect the solenoid , and switch the fridge to LP, if fuse doesn't blow , solenoid is to blame.
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Old 07-25-2017, 02:36 PM   #3
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Skip426, thanks for replying

Currently, the DC side is running and cooling the fridge properly. Do you mean for me to bypass the gas solenoid? If so, how do I do this? thanks
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Old 07-25-2017, 04:50 PM   #4
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LP system will not work with the solenoid disconnected and there is no by-passing it . Just meant to remove the power wire from it and when you switch the control to LP, the fridge won't light because there will be no propane flow ; but if the fuse doesn't blow then the solenoid is shorted and the cause of the fuse going .
I'll look for a picture showing the wire.

EDIT: OK the solenoid is the part in the blue oval , disconnect the wires from it , then switch to LP .
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Old 07-26-2017, 12:34 PM   #5
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Skip426,

Sorry for my late reply, Just found yours and I'm slowly learning how to navigate threads and responses. And thanks for the photos, helps to confirm solenoid...

I disconnected both wires to the gas solenoid. Flipped switch to LP. Immediately popped amp. (sigh).

My reservation to spending more money on a new circuit board has been that even on the AC side, fridge isn't as cold as I suspected it would get in relation to the outside ambient temp, which makes me suspect that the unit is not gonna last long, (ie ammonia particals starting to clogged up, etc), so trying to avoid the "money-trap" issue.

The freezer works great but have read when it struggles keeping fridge temps down, that the ammonia might be starting to clog up.

Guess we'll see. thanks, Sandi
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