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Old 10-28-2014, 11:27 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfire1339 View Post
Pretty obvious photo above was "NOT" a refer fire...
Mike
That's my impression too, pretty much everything burned but the refrigerator.
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Old 11-06-2014, 02:38 PM   #30
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[QUOTE=mfire1339;2284068]Pretty obvious photo above was "NOT" a refer fire...

I had 36 + years with the Philadelphia Fire Department and I couldn't determine a cause of fire from a picture ever. This could have been a norcold fire.
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Old 11-06-2014, 03:58 PM   #31
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I am new to this whole Norcold mess. However; I have recently bought a 2008 Bounder with a 4 door 1200 series refer. Curious about improving my odds of staying alive. Are the fires more prevalent while on Gas or 120V operation? I added the computer fan exhaust to my Dometic refer and made a tremendous improvement on operation, does this help on the Norcold?
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Old 11-06-2014, 04:13 PM   #32
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Curious about improving my odds of staying alive.
If not replacing with residential unit,

IMO Top two items to help:
1) Make sure all recall fixes have been applied AND
2) buy and install a Halon fire extinguisher behind the fridge.
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Old 11-06-2014, 07:30 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Brockx View Post
I am new to this whole Norcold mess. However; I have recently bought a 2008 Bounder with a 4 door 1200 series refer. Curious about improving my odds of staying alive. Are the fires more prevalent while on Gas or 120V operation? I added the computer fan exhaust to my Dometic refer and made a tremendous improvement on operation, does this help on the Norcold?
Be smart about it. It's your life and others....

IMO every norcold cooing unit in the 1200 series refer will fail. The numbers I've been seeing over the last 10 years I'd say most fail while on electric. But that being said I believe the reason is because 98% of the time the coach and/or 5'er is plugged into shore power and the refer is on. Either can be the option chosen and if/when the cooling unit fails ignition can happen. The reason these fail imo is because the cooling unit is undersized, both capacity of the solution and the for amount of heat transferability, thus making the cooling unit run at an absorbent high heat amount. Once the coating on the exposed tubing flakes off from the heat, the metal is now unprotected and the rusting process starts. IF/WHEN the tubing breaks open and IF the unit is at a high temp it appears to be enough for ignition - regardless of which option the heat source was (AC or LP). I also should say that almost all of the failures I've heard of that caused a fire, the recall was up to date. I don't know the actual number that the recall devise (which is only a temp sensor that when the temp hits the set point shuts off the DC power to the control box) shuts off at, but if the unit gets to that point and the temp sensor does in deed kill the power but the cooling unit had sprung a leak while the temp was climbing or shortly after shutting down ignition can happen.

Bottom line, if you are willing to chance it, chance it. IF your not (as I believe all should be) do one of the following.

1) Shut it off and don't use it, or at least shut it off while you sleep.

2) Replace it with the Amish unit.

3) Replace it with a household unit.
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Old 11-08-2014, 09:56 AM   #34
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Check the great claims on the Norcold site

Norcold Inc. Refrigerators

The 1200 is the most reliable...............
http://www.thetford.com/Home/Product...5/Default.aspx
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Old 11-09-2014, 07:32 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Brockx View Post
I am new to this whole Norcold mess. However; I have recently bought a 2008 Bounder with a 4 door 1200 series refer. Curious about improving my odds of staying alive. Are the fires more prevalent while on Gas or 120V operation? I added the computer fan exhaust to my Dometic refer and made a tremendous improvement on operation, does this help on the Norcold?
Install an ARP controller.
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:21 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Brockx View Post
I am new to this whole Norcold mess. However; I have recently bought a 2008 Bounder with a 4 door 1200 series refer. Curious about improving my odds of staying alive. Are the fires more prevalent while on Gas or 120V operation? I added the computer fan exhaust to my Dometic refer and made a tremendous improvement on operation, does this help on the Norcold?

I am not an engineer, so my comments should be taken with that in mind.

It is my understanding from reading the depositions and evidence that I have seen that the fires occur regardless of whether you are on gas or 110. The issue is a weakened weld inside the tube as a result of corrosion and when it lets loose it lets loose - regardless of whether you are on 110 or gas.

I would highly recommend that you add a very good fire extinguisher of the correct type and store it in your bedroom. Additionally, I would make sure that I knew how to operate my emergency window and checked to make certain that it does in fact open properly. Also, I would make a plan with my spouse of what we were going to do if a fire broke out - e.g. - after you open the emergency window put blankets / sheets over the metal extrusion of the window casing so that you can get out with minimal injury to yourselves.

I've had two Norcold units rupture and fail - both right at the 4 to 5 year mark.

Not all cooling units will fail, but many have in the past (e.g. - thousands). According to Norcold's employee testimony in depositions they indicate (and their incident logs evidence) that the fires have continued EVEN AFTER the installation of the High Temperature Sensor Recall Kits.

As stated, not all cooling units will fail, but it appears that all of the cooling units have the potential to fail at some point as a result of this internal corrosion.

I don't believe that there is any visual inspection that you can do beforehand that will give you any indication if there is - or isn't - a problem.

I've ready that many people have installed Halon systems behind their Norcold cooling units, and some have put in automatic fire extinguishers. What a total PAIN IN THE BUTT.

As for me, when this case is over with I will be removing my Norcold unit and replacing it with a residential electric unit. However, I have chosen to preserve my unit as it currently exists in case it would ever be needed as evidence in this case.
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:44 AM   #37
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I am not an engineer, so my comments should be taken with that in mind.

It is my understanding from reading the depositions and evidence that I have seen that the fires occur regardless of whether you are on gas or 110. The issue is a weakened weld inside the tube as a result of corrosion and when it lets loose it lets loose - regardless of whether you are on 110 or gas.

I would highly recommend that you add a very good fire extinguisher of the correct type and store it in your bedroom. Additionally, I would make sure that I knew how to operate my emergency window and checked to make certain that it does in fact open properly. Also, I would make a plan with my spouse of what we were going to do if a fire broke out - e.g. - after you open the emergency window put blankets / sheets over the metal extrusion of the window casing so that you can get out with minimal injury to yourselves.

I've had two Norcold units rupture and fail - both right at the 4 to 5 year mark.

Not all cooling units will fail, but many have in the past (e.g. - thousands). According to Norcold's employee testimony in depositions they indicate (and their incident logs evidence) that the fires have continued EVEN AFTER the installation of the High Temperature Sensor Recall Kits.

As stated, not all cooling units will fail, but it appears that all of the cooling units have the potential to fail at some point as a result of this internal corrosion.

I don't believe that there is any visual inspection that you can do beforehand that will give you any indication if there is - or isn't - a problem.

I've ready that many people have installed Halon systems behind their Norcold cooling units, and some have put in automatic fire extinguishers. What a total PAIN IN THE BUTT.

As for me, when this case is over with I will be removing my Norcold unit and replacing it with a residential electric unit. However, I have chosen to preserve my unit as it currently exists in case it would ever be needed as evidence in this case.
I have not taken ownership of my Nu2Me 08 Bounder, will get it next week (I had a punch list of items including all recalls on the Norcold). No way to tell hours on refer, 5300 miles on speedo, 60 hours on Genny, so who knows may have been full-timers. Anyway I'm researching the Amish unit or Res. unit, one thing I don't know right now is if it has an inverter, will know that next week at the 4 hour orientation. If no inverter I'm leaning to the Amish, I visit relatives very close to Shipshewana so I would likely try to arrange installation there. If I did not like this coach so much, I would have walked due to the Norcold.

Thank you for your response

Brock
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:52 AM   #38
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Quote:
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Install an ARP controller.

I read thru their site, may consider that as an interim, but at some point the Norcold becomes Amish or replaced with residential. With my floorplan I can use a std. vs counter depth residential which makes things a little easier $$.

Thanks for the reply

Brock
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Old 11-10-2014, 04:18 PM   #39
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my little fix went on the unit so what fridge should I look at purchasing to replace tis POS ?
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Old 11-11-2014, 07:50 PM   #40
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Norcold says my N821 is NOT part of their recall. Should I still be concerned? Is it any Norcold fridge regardless of model?
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Old 11-12-2014, 06:35 AM   #41
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Norcold says my N821 is NOT part of their recall. Should I still be concerned? Is it any Norcold fridge regardless of model?
In May of 2005 I saw the Norcold recall notice in Motorhome Magazine for the first time. I was quite concerned, so I checked my serial numbers against the ad in the magazine and it said I wasn't in the recall. However, to make sure I called Norcold (they were supposed to be giving out $50 gas cards if you called). When I called they told me that my serial number was not in the recall and told me there was no problem or reason to worry. My unit was supposed to be OK - no recall needed!

A few days later my N1200 quit working. We were preparing to take it on a long trip so we took the coach to the RV repair shop to see what the problem was and left it to be fixed. The RV tech was working on the fridge to see what the problem was - had the exterior cover off and walked away to get something. At that time he heard what he described to the "damnedest explosion he had ever heard" turned around to see flames shooting out of the side of the coach what he described to be "20 to 30 ft". He quickly ran to turn off the propane and got the fire extinguished. When we talked later he told me (in his opinion) that if he had been standing in front of the refrigerator when it exploded he would have been "killed".

Shortly thereafter Norcold expanded the serial numbers involved in their recall and then it included the serial number for my unit.

So I don't know what to say to you regarding your case, but personally I wouldn't be comfortable in anything that Norcold said to me.

Also, as a side note, even though I called two of three times to follow up on the $50 Gas Card they offered, they never sent it. The last time I called they told me that they had run out of the gas cards and didn't have any more to send out. I've heard that same story from numerous people. In fact, while I've spoken with five or six who didn't receive the gas card, I've never spoken with anyone who said that they did receive the gas card.

And lastly regarding your question (again, I am not an engineer so this is an opinion based upon what I have read in the depositions of Norcold engineers and expert witnesses who are engineers in this case) the defect is a design defect that is inherent in the design of the N6, N8 and N12 units. Not every unit will necessarily rupture or explode, as time goes on the corrosive materials in the boiler solution causes corrosion inside the tubes which can weaken the welds, which then lead to the leak, explosion and / or potential fire.

So while it is an opinion, based upon my personal experience, I don't think that it should bring you a lot of comfort that Norcold has told you that your refrigerator isn't in their recall. They did the same to me and then within days it quit working and subsequently exploded and caught on fire.
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Old 01-09-2015, 11:18 PM   #42
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I wonder if dometic refrigerators have or will have similar problems? I couldn't find any posts about leaks or fires.
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