Norcold code "no co"

[blindhanger]

We recently bought a 2005 Bounder and took a 2300 mile round trip (after a bumper to bumper mechanical checkout). Refer worked fine with AC but didn't seem to cool as well with LP. When we pulled into the driveway at the end of the trip the refer (running on LP) was beeping with a "no co" code. I cranked up the generator and switched to AC and received the same code. The owners manual said to shut off the unit, reset it, and try again. How do I reset the unit?

[Hitchhiker]

Here's what it says in my Norcold manual:

[1ciderdog]

This site also has reset instructions for Norcold and it resolved the "no co" for the Norcold in my 2004 Journey.

[JWatkins]

The first time you do the "reset" you will need to take the cover off of the circuit board to get at the pins. I suggest that you consider drilling a hole in that cover to allow you to insert a probe or wire end into the pin location to save a lot of time and effort. You can tape over the hole to keep dirt and bugs out. The "noco" is a three strikes and you're out type of thing. After you get that the 3rd time in one occurrence, the boards locks you out and you have to do the manual reset. Follow the instructions in the note above and you should get it reset.

The "noco" means no cooling, so you will need to check a few things. BAttery level is one. Make sure they are charged. There may be obstruction at your burner for LP or in the flue. Remove the cover over the burner and examine the flame and burner. IF the flame isn't blue or isn't fully burning, there may be debris on the burner. You can remove it and clean it or attempt to clean it without removal. There may be spiders, ect in your flue. It may also be rust. Take a metal rod and use a hammer to tap it against the flue and see what happens. IF there isn't rust falling, you may have to pull a swab through the flue. This will require you to go to the top og the MH and remove the cover over the flue and maybe remove a piece of a grateing in order to remove a spiral device from the flue ( can't remember the name of it) that is hanging in there with a chain which keeps it from falling. Once that is done the flue should be clear and you can run a swab through it.

Take it one staep at a time. Check battery, reset, check burner, then flue.
Joe

[HD4Mark]

I just went through this ritual with our 1200. Stick your nose in the compartments to see if you smell ammonia. If so don't bother with the noco reset because the cooling unit may be leaking and will need to be replaced.

I did the reset before discovering it was leaking and although it was an interesting lesson on how to do it, it was not necessary.

[Purplefans & Harvey]

We had this problem also, with the MH we bought in March. My manual instructions said that it needed to be reset by the facility, so I took it back to the dealership I bought it, and they reset it for me, no charge.

I just wasnt' ready to start taking things apart since I had just bought it.

[blindhanger]

Thanks for the replies. I'll let you know if they solve my problem.

[Gary RVRoamer]

The reset procedure varies by model of fridge. And on the Norcold 1200, there are two different circuit boards in use (different years), and those two have different procedures too.

[RV Trax]

Alot of NoCo codes are caused by the cooling unit not coolig down properly in the 12 hour cycle. Always verify there is not an ammonia smell from inside the refrigerator or outside the fridge. Also inspect for a yellow green residue at the rear of the refrigerator, especially around the lower sheet metal. If these inital tests fail, turn the refrigerator off immediately. If after a hard reset, the failure occurs again, the thermister is sometimes at fault. If the refrigerator seems to be cooling properly and after the above inspection and performing another hard reset, disconnect the thermister connector,(the pair of white wires from a black plastic bulb on the fins at the rear inside the fridge), at the light 4 wire connector, to place the refrigerator in a duty cycle test mode. By setting the fridge to max cool after the reset procedure the refrigerator inside temperature should be about a freezing temperature within 24 hours. If it is ok, test the thermister. I have also had a few board failures, as well.

[blindhanger]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll try to resolve the problem after my mechanic resolves the knock sensor problem in my 2005 Bounder Workhorse 8.1L.

[RVwheels]

I just went through this "mess". Had the same problem with not cooling on gas. An "alleged" Norcold trained tect told me that couldn't happen (cool better on AC than gas) when there was the correct blue flame. After he did nothing for me I went through the reset a couple of times then just decided to replace the thermister. (By the way, I had also cleaned the exhaust tube, blew everything out with air, etc.) Ever since the frig has worked worked perfectly if not better than before!

[blindhanger]

Thanks for all the advice! I'll report back to the forum when I get the MH back from the mechanic.

[Fuddy63]

What sites have test procedure for norcold 1200?

[blindhanger]

Thanks for all the help on this forum. I did the reset procedure and the fridge is operating now. I also drilled a 3/8" hole at the jumper location for future instances, as suggested.