Norcold Condensation

[JoeT]

I have a problem with condensation and frost in my Norcold 1210IM refrigerator. I have checked the door seals and they appear to be ok. I have noticed the flapper between the doors is cold to the touch. It used to be warm. I'm thinking this might be the problem. The door contacts make good contact, but there is no voltage on any of the contacts. Can anyone tell me if there should be?

[RV Wizard]

Yes there should be voltage on the contacts for the flapper heater to work. Without it you will get condensation developing on this cold surface.MAke sure you do not have a switch or control setting on your model that can turn this off if you are in a dry climate and it got turned off. THe next place to look would be the connections on the control board out back. Let us know what you find.

[JoeT]

I know of no switch to turn off the flapper heater and none is mentioned in the owner's or service manuals.
I didn't take the cover of of the control board, but the connections that can be seen with it on are ok. Should I remvove the cover?

[RV Wizard]

JOe, if you feel comfortable in working on electrical components you can remove the cover and check to be sure you have good connections for the flap heater. Even though a connection looks to be good it could have invisible corrosion and an electrical cleaner is good to use.

[Tom N]

The older Norcolds had a switch to turn off the door seal area heaters. There was one on the Norcold in my old 1994 Vectra.

The door seal area heater is no longer switchable.

-Tom

[JoeT]

Mike - I removed the screws from the circuit board cover this morning, but there is too much in the way to remove the cover completely. I was able to examine and jiggle the connections at the bottom of the board. Couldn't see any problems. I wouldn't think there would be any corrosion as this refrigerator is only three months old. It is a replacement for one that didn't cool properly.
I have another problem that I don't know if it's related or not. It gets too cold. I have it set on '1' and it get down to 32 degrees. I am in a cool climate. The outside temperature gets up to 70 in the day and down to 50 at night. Someone told me that is why it freezes the food, but I don't by it. If so, how could you use it in the winter?
Thanks for your help. Hope I didn't get too winded.

["007"]

Over to the right on fins in box area there is a clip on last one to sence the temperture. Mine is 2/3's from the top where is yours.

[RV Wizard]

007, brings up a very good point as to controlling the temperature. The thermistor (temperture sensor) is clipped to one of the evaporator fins and can alter the performance as to it location. Let us know where it is. One more question. Has this refrigerator performed like this since day one?

[JoeT]

The thermistor is located on the second fin from the right about 1 1/2 inches from the top. This is exactly where the service manual shows it should be.
History:
This is a replacement refrigerator that was installed on May 22 of this year by Tiffin in Red Bay, AL. It performed just fine on a setting of '5' or '6'. We traveled to San Antonio, TX, Monahans, TX, and back home to Weston, TX. The only problem we had was the door alarm kept going off. The door was raised on June 26 to fix the alarm problem. The coach then sat at home with the refrigerator operating ok on '5'. That's when I first noticed the heavy condensation. I wiped a lot out every other day.
We left for Cloudcroft, NM on August 1. Since we have been here, at 8,000 feet, we had had to deal with the 'too cold' issue.

[Ray,IN]

Two things are not compatable in my view. You said you have the temperature setting on 5, which a colder setting, it should operate on 3 fine. You also said it is too cold, have you tried the 3 setting or less?
Condensation is from moist air allowed in when the door is opened often or held open, also from fruits and vegetables not covered too. However, since the door was "re-adjusted" it may be not sealing properly. Use a strip of paper or dollar bill to test the seal all around the doors. If it is difficult to pull out the seal is good. another thought:
Your Norcold is under warranty, locate an authorized Norcold dealer and request it be repaired or replaced.

[RV Wizard]

Another thought. If indeed the flap heater is not working after the door adjustment, they may have it so the flap heat cotact pins are not making connections to the contact buttons on the jamb.

[JoeT]

Ray - Please read my third post. I have it set on '1'.
I have checked the door seals with a dollar bill. (Actually a 5 ) It is sealed. Opening the door a lot is not the issue because the condensation was bad when it was sitting at home. I will take it to a service center when I get home. I'm currently not anywhere near one.
Mike - the pins are making contact. But remember, I have no voltage on the contacts.

[JoeT]

Well, I've gone from condensation to freezing.
It looks like the altitude in Cloudcroft wasn't the issue. I've been down in Carlsbad the last couple of days and with the refrigerator set on '1' I have to turn it off at night to keep from freezing everything. And believe me, it's hot outside here.
I'm getting by ok this way. I'll be back home in about a week and I'll take it to a service center then.
Thanks for the input.

[JoeT]

I took the coach in for service last week. Here's an update.
Condensation - Norcold has a kit that will fix this. The kit has been ordered.
No voltage on the flapper pins - No voltage when the door is open is normal. The refrigerator senses when the door is open and removes the voltage.
Freezing when set on '1' - No trouble found. The technician removed the thermistor and tested it. It tested ok. After reinstalling it, the refrigerator has been on a setting of '9' for 3 days and is not below freezing. (I suggested they try it on '3'.)