Just a couple of items to add IF they haven't been looked at as I just rebuilt my refer cabinet and found some issues from the factory.
How much distance is there between the back of the bottom coils of the refer and the inside wall of the cabinet? If it is more than 1 inch is there an air baffle down low at the top of the bottom vent door to block that wide area down to an inch or less? If not (mine didn't have the baffle but it did have 3+ inches space) then all your coil cooling air is bypassing the coils and can't do its job.
How much insulation is there is the walls of the cabinet surrounding the sides and top of the refer? Mine only had 1/2 the depth of the refer on 2 sides (you may need to slide the refer out some to check this. I insulated to the full depth of the sides and top with 3 inches of insulation. The better you can insulate the sides and top the better chance the refer has in keeping the cold inside. You can't do much about the door and you have to have the coils clear and open so the sides and top are where you need to look.
Check down inside the upper vent hole to see if you have a wooden baffle from the ceiling of the cabinet down to about 1/4 inch from the top of the refer (the full width of the cabinet) to keep most of the hot air off of the top of the refer. This is sometimes missing.
Does your refer have a drain line out the lower back vent door for condensation? Check to see if it is broken or disconnected. If it is it can raise the refer box temp sometimes 10 degrees. It must also have a bend in the line (much like a sink trap under the sink) so that condensate water will stay in the trap blocking air coming back in the line into the box. The trap and the open end must be lower than the outlet on the refer so when condensate flows it overfills the "trap" and flows out the lower end.
These are just a few of the things I would check before I spent a whole bunch of money on a new refer.
I wish you the best in solving your problem.
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