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Old 08-02-2018, 03:31 PM   #1
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Norcold fridge gas burner problem

I've got a 99 Gulfstream Scenic Cruiser with a Norcold 1200LRIM fridge. I noticed it wasn't cooling very well in propane mode and the burner sounded terrible. I took the burner out and cleaned it and soaked the oriface in alcohol and cleaned that real well. Vaccumed out the outside fridge compartment. Everything was plenty dirty with rust etc. Got everything cleaned up real well and the burner seems to be burning much better but I still hear an intermittent "poofing" sound. I kinda think I shouldn't have that? I had the burner on for a couple hours and the freezer was getting cold already and that cooling tank thing was warm, on the verge of being hot enough that you couldn't hold your hand on it. Is there anything else I can try or should I just leave well enough alone??
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Old 08-02-2018, 03:42 PM   #2
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Until someone with more knowledge than I chimes in it shouldn't be poofing.
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Old 08-03-2018, 09:59 AM   #3
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It needs several hours to cool down.
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Old 08-03-2018, 10:19 AM   #4
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Good morning DandyDon; To me, the poofing sound you would hear would be the burner reigniting. I see you cleaned everything. I clean everything at the beginning of each season to get rust and etc. out. How about the spark ignitor? Is it possible that the connections to the board need cleaning because they are not making a good connection. Is the gap between the burner and the igniter probe the correct distance. I think it is supposed to be about 1/8 to 3/16 away from the burner. Not sure. Need to check your owners manual. The igniter might not be sending the proper signal back to the control box in turn the control box shuts down the gas valve and everything starts another cycle all over again. You might have to set up camp and watch the burner for a while to see if this is what is taking place. Just my thoughts. I get rust from the flue on the igniter now and then, but it does not affect the performance of my Norcold. I just make sure to clean it of when I switch over to A/C. Hope this info helps! Also did you check the connection from the gas line to the burner after reassembly to make sure you don't have any leaks at the fitting. Checked mine with some soapy water to make sure there were no leaks!
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Old 08-03-2018, 12:36 PM   #5
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Does your flame look like this?
(Should be BLUE strong/steady and just reach up inside center of flue opening)







How did you "...soaked the oriface in alcohol and cleaned that real well."?
Soaking GOOD
Blowing thru it using air compressor........NOT GOOD can easily damage the orifice
Poking thru it..........NOT GOOD can easily damage the orifice


Orifice is a metered opening that allows proper amount of propane flow to mix with available air so that fuel/air mixture results in a strong HOT BLUE flame



If you hear that 'poofing' when flame is lighting off....OK
If you hear that 'poofing' WHILE flame is lit......that indicates issue with orifice (fuel/air ratio changing)
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Old 08-03-2018, 11:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Does your flame look like this?
(Should be BLUE strong/steady and just reach up inside center of flue opening)







How did you "...soaked the oriface in alcohol and cleaned that real well."?
Soaking GOOD
Blowing thru it using air compressor........NOT GOOD can easily damage the orifice
Poking thru it..........NOT GOOD can easily damage the orifice


Orifice is a metered opening that allows proper amount of propane flow to mix with available air so that fuel/air mixture results in a strong HOT BLUE flame



If you hear that 'poofing' when flame is lighting off....OK
If you hear that 'poofing' WHILE flame is lit......that indicates issue with orifice (fuel/air ratio changing)

I did not poke at the orifice with anything! I'll do some further investigation. May end up replacing the orifice. They're not very expensive.
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Old 08-04-2018, 12:05 PM   #7
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Does your flame look like one in pic?


If NOT......
Propane System Pressure...Low ----adjust reg (or new one)
S/B 11" WC measured using manometer


Orifice damaged or burner slots clogged/worn out
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Old 08-04-2018, 10:46 PM   #8
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I ordered a new burner/orifice today. $60 from Amazon. If it cures the problem it's a cheap fix. If not I may have to have the gas pressure checked. The gas stove works fine though??
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Old 08-04-2018, 11:04 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DandyDon View Post
I ordered a new burner/orifice today. $60 from Amazon. If it cures the problem it's a cheap fix. If not I may have to have the gas pressure checked. The gas stove works fine though??

Stove/oven have a separate regulator set for 10"WC so the LP System could be down to 10"WC and stove/oven WOULD still be good.


11"WC is 0.4 psi
10"WC is .36 psi
10% difference which will cause burner issues

SO does FLAME look like one in pic or not?
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Old 08-05-2018, 01:44 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Stove/oven have a separate regulator set for 10"WC so the LP System could be down to 10"WC and stove/oven WOULD still be good.


11"WC is 0.4 psi
10"WC is .36 psi
10% difference which will cause burner issues

SO does FLAME look like one in pic or not?
To be honest I can't see it well enough to really tell. I think it does but can't be 100% sure. I do know it should not be "poofing". Another question, if the stove( I don't have an oven) has a separate regulator, why do they recommend you test your gas pressure on one of your stove burners?
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Old 08-05-2018, 04:31 PM   #11
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From The RV Doctor:

In years past, it was quite convenient for RV service technicians to tap into the propane system at the cooktop. Stove burners used to be easiest place to connect the manometer.


However, many of today’s newer, more efficient propane appliances actually require less pressure and fuel to operate at their optimum. In these appliances, an additional regulator is often at work internally to the appliance (here’s one on the fuel inlet fitting to an RV range/oven). These individual appliance regulators further reduce the incoming 11.0 inches of water column pressure in the system to even less pressure, typically less than 10.0 water column inches





Impossible to adjust RV LP System pressure connected to stove top burner with separate regulator that is set to maintain 10"WC


Fridge, water heater, furnace gas valves typically have a 'test' port which IS used to adjust RV LP System pressure.


Now a days folks throw parts vs testing and just replace 'suspect' parts.
That includes RV Techs/Repair Shops ----- cheaper because of 'shop labor rates'






AS for flame.......you have to remove burner shield to really see how flame is burning
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Old 08-06-2018, 12:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
From The RV Doctor:

In years past, it was quite convenient for RV service technicians to tap into the propane system at the cooktop. Stove burners used to be easiest place to connect the manometer.


However, many of today’s newer, more efficient propane appliances actually require less pressure and fuel to operate at their optimum. In these appliances, an additional regulator is often at work internally to the appliance (here’s one on the fuel inlet fitting to an RV range/oven). These individual appliance regulators further reduce the incoming 11.0 inches of water column pressure in the system to even less pressure, typically less than 10.0 water column inches





Impossible to adjust RV LP System pressure connected to stove top burner with separate regulator that is set to maintain 10"WC


Fridge, water heater, furnace gas valves typically have a 'test' port which IS used to adjust RV LP System pressure.


Now a days folks throw parts vs testing and just replace 'suspect' parts.
That includes RV Techs/Repair Shops ----- cheaper because of 'shop labor rates'






AS for flame.......you have to remove burner shield to really see how flame is burning

I had it removed and have removed it again. I'll check it again this afternoon when I put in the new burner/orifice. Don't think this is going to solve my problem but one can hope. Old burner/orifice looked fine after I cleaned it. I've done a fair amount of work on propane stuff as we had a hunting camp for 40 years that had gas lights, stove, fridge, heater, etc. I installed and maintained everything, not that there's much maintenance to be done. The fridges are basically the same as we have in our RV's.
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Old 08-06-2018, 12:29 PM   #13
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So you know that correct system pressure is essential to proper burner performance


New burner/orifice will not solve problem IF system pressure is not correct.




BUT...........other then that 'poofing' noise fridge was cooling down \
Did you ever leave it on overnight and find out if temps got cold enough?
Did you figure out if 'poofing' noise was just from flame lighting off?


Do you 'really' have a problem?
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Old 08-07-2018, 06:55 AM   #14
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Installed the new burner/orifice yesterday and the problem seems to be solved. Burner is burning with a blue steady flame and no "poofing". It improved when I cleaned the old burner and improved even more when I installed the new one. This fridge has been surprisingly efficient for as old as it is. We've had to turn it down a couple times to keep stuff in the fridge part from freezing.
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