Norcold Help

[PeterFTH]

Having owned a Norcold 1200 4 door refrigerator for 5 years now, I have a suggestion to boost the performance. The Norcold electric/propane absorption system relies on two fans that are impossible to get to without removing the refrigerator. These fans are not redundant, it requires both of them to perform. If a fan dies, your freezer pops up 15 degrees to as high as 28-30, and you can't remedy it without removing the fridge. So, what I did was buy a bunch of 12vdc muffin fans on Ebay and installed 6 of them on an angle bracket and put it under the roof vent on top. These fans must be powered by the thermistor that turns the factory fans on - there are portions of the cycle that the fans being on would hinder. Whenever the fridge is out find the thermistor, run a wire from that down to the base that you can access from the side panel and run a pair to the top of the fridge that you can retrieve from the roof when the fridge is back in it's cavity. I put some chicken wire over the fans to keep your larger critters out and it has worked flawlessly ever since. Obviously you need a ground wire so run a pair to the roof.

[Old-Biscuit]

OEM fan thermostat attaches to condenser fin......turns fans ON when FIN Temp reaches 135*F and OFF when FIN Temp drops to 115*F


Why Fin Temp vs ambient air.......cause condenser is where the hot ammonia vapor condenses into cool liquid ammonia. The more hot vapor that is condensed into cool liquid the more absorption of heat can be removed from freezer/food compartment
Condenser temps can be hot even when ambient air temps are not.


Roof Top Vent provides for a natural draft and fans enhance the airflow.


Course if RV MFGs would take the time and install RV Absorption Fridges to 'specs' that Norcold/Dometic provide majority of 'cooling issues' would be rare..