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Old 09-19-2013, 10:10 AM   #1
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Norcold Installation Issue

We were in a warm place last weekend and one of our group members was having big problems keeping their Norcold 1201 cold. When they complained about it I took a look at it and their refer temp was 50F! With the refer on the shady side of the coach.

I performed the Muddypaws Mod on their refer and checked on it the next morning and found it to be 41F. Still not good enough.

One of the things I noticed is that their refer appears to have at least 4 inches of dead air space between the cooling unit and the wall of the RV. There are also no baffles on the sides and I assume nothing at the top either.

I solved their problem (temporarily) by using a rather large fan to force more air into the coils.

Looking at the installation instructions it says there should be no more than 1 inch of air space between the coils and the wall, no space on the sides, and a baffle/guide at the top to smooth the flow of hot air out the roof vent.

For comparison: Our 1201 has 1/2 inch space, proper guides at the top and is mounted in a slide. It runs at 34F in the refer and -18F in the freezers on setting 3 most of the time. It was on the afternoon sun side and only got up to 40F when we were opening it every few minutes when cooking dinner. (I recently added 4 thermostatically controlled 120mm computer fans to the upper vent as an experiment and the major change I've seen is to it's recoverey time. It cools down much faster.)

OK, with all of that background here's the questions. Finally. Would the amount of dead space behind the coils make that much difference? Is it something that my friend should get the manufacturer to fix?

A residential refer is out of the question. As is an Amish coil at this point. My friends travel a lot and are on a fairly strict budget.
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Old 09-19-2013, 10:38 AM   #2
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I did the 4 fan at the top you have a good question my class a has a 2 door model 663 my artic fox has the 4 door not sure on back side space my 2 door has 4 to 6 inches this one almost freezes every thing on the highest setting I have a computer fan inside and the coffe cup trick ill look at the 4 door today it's only soo soo on cooling
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:39 PM   #3
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There shouldn't be any dead space like that. It allows possible air flow to bypass coils/fins.
The air should be forced to travel over coils/fins, and NOT allowed to pool and trap above the refr.
Are there two side vents or one side one top?
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Old 09-19-2013, 08:00 PM   #4
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The dead space lets air bypass the condenser coil. It needs to be a pretty tight fit. My Sister in law bought a nice expensive Road Trek class B with a small NOCold and the first trip, the baffle slipped and it would not cool. I temporarily tape it back into place. When they got back to Colorado, they put it in the shop and had it repaired. It was not acting right and after another attempted repair, the whole frig was finally replaced and at their insistence, the dealer added and external fan to hep the unit....now it works.

How is it that Norcold made decent units in the past and now they make junk.

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Old 09-20-2013, 03:07 AM   #5
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thanks for the reply
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Old 09-20-2013, 05:01 PM   #6
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From an expert

I've been offline for a couple of days.

We're on a trip with someone who owns an RV shop and he's given me an awful lot of information.

The ducting makes a huge amount of difference and it should be taken out and installed properly. He said he'll do it for a couple of hundred but that seemed pretty low to me.

He's not impressed with the Amish coils and says there is a 20% failure rate in the first few months! The manufacturer is good about replacing them, but re-installation costs are not covered in the warrantee.
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Old 09-20-2013, 05:24 PM   #7
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If you look at any installation spec by Norcold they covered pretty well the baffling required for their fridge both up wall behind and at top to deflect the hot air out the roof vent.
If this is a used coach someone may have removed the baffles for some reason if it was MFG installation they really messed up.
Fridge has to be removed and proper installation done.
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Old 09-20-2013, 05:35 PM   #8
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Hi:

I bought a second rig to live in, 2006 Keystone Montana 37', and has Dometic RM2862 which has worked fine till I had power outage. I think it is shot???It won't work on electricty and when gas light is on it is not cooling. Any suggestions? Thinking maybe a apartment size refrigator rather than expensive repalcement, thoughts.

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Old 09-20-2013, 06:15 PM   #9
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Control board

Before you do anything you should check the recall box if your refer has one. It wouldn't be the first time a power glitch has tripped one. If the red light is on it's tripped. If you search this forum you'll find the method for resetting it.

Next would be the control board. Check the fuses. If they test OK there is a chance the board is fried. Personally, I would replace it with a dinosaur board if they make one for your refer.

Keep in mind that it takes up to 24 hours for these things to cool down. You just about can't tell if it's working in a couple of hours unless you have an IR thermometer.

Good Luck!
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Old 09-22-2013, 06:38 PM   #10
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Did you insurance on your unit? If you had a power failure and it damaged your refrigerator it seems it would be covered. First, I'd turn it in on your insurance and go from there.
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