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Old 09-10-2018, 03:14 PM   #1
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Question Norcold N621

DETAILS:

Sat. Sept 1 - 2018 - My power cut out. Found my meter box (where I plug in my trailer) smoking and the 30v socket, and my plug, completely melted. I ripped it out of there as fast as I could and shut the breaker off. A friend came and spliced a longer 30v cord in so I could get my power from the empty lot next to me. Everything was back on track, up and running in less than an hour EXCEPT, apparently, my refrigerator.

By Monday I realized my refrigerator was getting warmer but the freezer was still cold so I put the perishables I could fit into the freezer. Wednesday morning came around and I needed to get a new bottle of CoffeeMate creamer from the freezer. Guess what? It was also warm. I guess the ice that had built up on the back wall was what kept it cold this long. The friend who hooked up the extension for me left around 3 am Wednesday morning (same morning I discovered freezer warm) for Arkansas and won't be back until this coming Wednesday.

WHAT I DID:

1) Checked my internal breaker box, all is well. Fuses for running fridge off propane are also good.

2) Checked computer board on back of fridge from outside access. Everything looked good, no burned spots....both fuses on board intact.

3) Long shot: picked up a new thermistor which arrived today and put that in my freshly sterilized fridge at noon today. It's 4:30 pm and it's not cold.

4) Dug up owners manual. Tried to reset by holding the on/off button for a second or two. Nothing. Yes, there IS power, it's just not cooling. Had a "d" code which stands for door.. I had it open while doing this and then got an "H" which means its in the actual control unit on the door but it also says "not serviceable by owner".

Now... the back wall of the freezer is cold but not nearly cold enough to keep butter from melting or milk going bad so it's pretty useless. The fridge is just warm, nothing about it is remotely chill.

Has anybody tried to service their own "non-serviceable-by- owner" control board? I haven't opened it up (yet) but wonder if it CAN be fixed by owner. If so... any idea's what to look for when I DO open it?

Also, any idea what kind of cost would be involved in getting it serviced here in the mobile/rv park in Florida? I don't have any tow vehicle so it's semi-permanently parked.

Any other ideas? Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-10-2018, 10:47 PM   #2
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IF you are able to turn fridge On/Off...have display---internal light works etc then DC is GOOD


"H' means that 'AC Relay is stuck CLOSED'......which allows AC Heater current when the AC heater should be OFF. Not serviceable.
Circuit board fault.
Replacement of board is needed.


Unless you are electronics handy....
On circuit board left side is where the AC Power Hot/Neutral leads connect
Above them is a 5A glass fuse......just above & to right is AC Relay (black box).
Take numbers/info from relay.check electronics store for new relay

Unsolder old......sold new in
Probably got fried when 30A power receptacle/plug melted


Pic of Norcold replacement bd...N621 (Old Norcold 621267001/replaced by Norcold 632168001)




Otherwise ...new board
Get a Dinosaur Electronics board for replacement....much better quality bds (N621 would use 6212XX)
6212XX page


Pic of Dino Bd



https://www.adventurerv.net/norcold-...d-p-28929.html
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Old 09-12-2018, 06:15 AM   #3
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Huh.... I thought I already posted a message but it's not showing up. Oh well, hope you don't mind reruns! ;-) Old Biscuit, you are a GOD. Thank you also for all the links as that will help me find the relay much faster so I can replace it. Soldering is no problem, I've been told I do a great job of it. I am working with the dino board you pictured.

To be clear, the box I have circled in yellow (ok, rectangled) is the relay?
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:38 PM   #4
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YES-----------
AC HOT comes in on L1 terminal
Then goes thru the Glass Fuse to the Relay and from Relay to the AC HT H1 & H2 terminals (heater element leads connections)


That Relay Opens/Closes based on 'cooling cycle'----thermostat
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Old 09-15-2018, 09:52 AM   #5
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Well it turns out that NOBODY in the state of Florida sells electrical parts for circuit boards anymore. I even took the board with me to be sure I would get the correct relay.

Since that didn't work a friend paid for a new board for me and I'll pay him back next month. We found a new one, still in the package, on eBay for $129.99 with free shipping. Ordered it yesterday should be hear sometime in the coming week.

Thanks for your help, Old Biscuit.
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Old 09-15-2018, 10:04 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Animalangel View Post
Well it turns out that NOBODY in the state of Florida sells electrical parts for circuit boards anymore. I even took the board with me to be sure I would get the correct relay.

Since that didn't work a friend paid for a new board for me and I'll pay him back next month. We found a new one, still in the package, on eBay for $129.99 with free shipping. Ordered it yesterday should be hear sometime in the coming week.

Thanks for your help, Old Biscuit.



It's an 'R&R' society....Remove/Replace
Nobody Fixes anything anymore.


That is usually 'labor' driven.....
Pull circuit board, diagnosis problem, locate new component, remove old one, install new component, test board then reinstall

OR pul
l old board install new board

R&R---Less labor costs therefore lower overall bill for NEW part.


Besides...few 'techs' can do anything more then R&R and struggle with that


Hopefully you will have fridge back to COOLING soon
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Old 09-15-2018, 10:16 AM   #7
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I have had good luck googling the part numbers on the relay and buying them online.

I have given up buying parts locally. I find myself wasting a lot of time driving and not finding what I want.

Paul
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Old 09-16-2018, 05:50 AM   #8
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OLD BISCUIT:

You're right. Even the guy at Grainger, where you can buy a host of electronic parts, didn't even know how to read the relay let alone remove and install a new one on the old board. I have some (very little, very, very old) electrical training (most of which I've forgotten) AND I did work in a factory at one point doing soldering (Coleco) so I wasn't afraid to tackle the relay issue. In any case, that same circuit board (replacements for it, that is) run from (ebay: $160 - $168) to the low to mid $300 range. SAME FREAKING BOARD!!! It was an absolute fluke that we found it for $129.99. The seller has very high marks in all categories and the comments were all about his/her very fast shipping. So... I expect the part this week even though the projected delivery is Sept. 22. Thanks thanks for all you're help.

************************************************** **

PAUL:

I hear ya. I might look for the part online just to see how much it costs. Thanks for the input!
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Old 09-16-2018, 07:59 PM   #9
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Take a better picture of the relay so we can see the writing on it.

I have brought my old Xantrex Freedom 458 back to life with a relay change.

More recently I replaced a relay on one of the control board on our 2005 Monaco Signature as the dock lights were not working right.

Paul
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Old 09-17-2018, 06:15 AM   #10
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Hi Paul. I took several shots of the board and this one is the clearest. Where online do you find the electronic parts? Is there any particular "store" you like the most?

It's the relay on the left, just up and right of the glass tube fuse with the letter "D" on it.

I'm probably going to need a new resistor too because the large blue/gray one left of the relay appears burnt. I might still play with it since I already have a new one coming. Haven't decided yet.

You can see it much more clearly if you click on the picture, enlarge it in that screen and, if needed, use your magnifier to get it to take up the entire computer screen. Hahahaha!
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Old 09-17-2018, 08:38 PM   #11
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Norcold N621

Part number is T7CS5D-12 manufactured by Potter & Brumfield.

My regular parts places (Mouser and Digikey) both show it as obsolete.

eBay has a number of seller of the product from as low as $3.95 shipped from China.

I would likely buy a couple from a US seller just to get them quicker, but the original is also made in China, so likely the same thing from any source.

The resistor does show some heat has been present, but nothing too bad. Note that it is much larger than the other components on the board, so they were expecting it to see some heat.

Iíd be happy to replace the relay, but by the time you ship it to me and back to you, it would only make sense if you just wanted to know. PM me if you are curious.

I donít have any appliances to test it on (aqua hot and residential fridge).

Paul
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Old 09-18-2018, 02:11 PM   #12
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Thanks for the offer, Paul, but no. I'll just put in the new one when it gets here on Thursday and be done with it. I considered "playing with it" myself but I've got better things to do with my time as well so once the new board arrives and is installed, hopefully everything will be up and running and I can just recycle the old one or toss it. Thanks again, though, for the generous offer.
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Old 09-20-2018, 01:18 PM   #13
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Angry

Just to update ya'll:

The new replacement board arrived today. I installed it and the fridge is up and running. What it's NOT doing is cooling.

I'm guessing that because the new board is a replacement for an obsolete board, I must need a new eyebrow to go with it. Since I can't afford to order THAT new board (which I need to research for the replacement number) until October 3rd, looks like I'm going to need to go and buy another bag of ice.
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Old 09-20-2018, 05:54 PM   #14
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Whooa.....


Hold up there one minute


"Fridge up and running"----Not cooling
HOW long have you had it running?
Takes many hours to properly cool down ----freezer HAS to get COLD first before food compartment can cool down!!


Upper eyebrow display panel.
Fridge up and running ----I take that as upper panel works.
You have display Lights?
No error codes?
Can turn fridge ON/OFF?
Can select modes....Auto, AC/LP GAS?
Can change Temp settings 1-9?


YES.then upper display board is working


New lower board Dino 6212XX IS the correct replacement board.
DID YOU PUT THE JUMPER IN POSITION #67???
http://dinosaurelectronics.com/Instr...stallation.pdf




Now IF tomorrow fridge is Still not cold....
Unplug the 120V AC Heater Element Leads from lower circuit board
Plug the leads directly into a 120V AC Power source (outlet fridge plugs into)
Turn fridge ON set temp to 9
Let fridge run with element directly wired for 12 Hrs
Freezer should get 10*F/lower and food compartment 38*F/Lower cause element will be on the whole 12 hrs ---continuously cooling


BUT......answer the questions above first!



Service Manual
https://www.liveworkdream.com/wp-con...coldmanual.pdf
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