Norcold Refr (N621) not getting cold

[InPursuit]

I'm sure this has been covered a gazillion times and I apologize but...
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It was working just fine.
Been parked about 10 days on shore power but still using LP on refr.
Started not being cold last evening... in the dark.
hmmm I says. Come daylight we'll poke around.

LP tank is down to about 1/4 but the burner is doing its thing.
(as is stove and furnace and wtr heater)

Going out for supplies anyway so I get the LP tank filled.
(oddly though it only took 7gals to get above the 3/4 cutoff point)

Not long after the LP refill and while running around
I notice the "F" readout on the refr controls...
(what does that mean anyway?)

I decide to clean it all and mop up some defrosted water in the freezer and while doing that I feel the coldplate in the freezer getting nice and cold as it should...

I think I'm out of the woods...
so I get my groceries and head back to the CG.
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Back to Square One.
The coldplate at btm of frzr is cold,
the burner is going gangbusters,
the refr exchange tank is warm,
but neither the freezer or the refr inside gets cold.
at all.

I just switched "mode" to 120V.
All the control readouts seem fine.

que pasa?
Thanks
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I'm in S Texas right now (if that matters).
Thanks,

Bryan

[akadeadeye]

Bryan,

I am not familiar with the type of Norcold you have, but you might want to check out numerous threads about recent Norcold recalls. Go to "Search" up above and type in Norcold or other such keywords such as recall, etc. if you care to view what has been going on. Again, your refrig may not at all be one of the ones being recalled or talked about, but your symptoms are familiar sounding.

Don

[InPursuit]

Thanks Don. Perhaps I should have included the disclaimer:
This is a plain vanila Norcold unit (F over R) like in almost every other basic RV
in the world and it is NOT affected by the recalls.

My suspicion is thermostat related but I'm real reluctant to overstate.
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On 120V the readout has an "A" on it now.
The LP burner etc is all off.
The lights etc still work.
But it still isn't getting cold inside.

[RV Wizard]

"F" = no flame "A" no AC voltage present. Go to the "Files" button (near top of main forum page under the Panoramic view) and you can download the pdf file on the fault codes.

[InPursuit]

And thank you too Mike that's useful data.
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But what about my problem?
I do in fact have 120V at the Refr and the LP burner works just fine.

Why isn't it getting cold?
and more important what can I do about that?

thanks

[RV Wizard]

You will have to diagnose the problem and I am not sure of your skills at understanding how the controls work. Do you have a multimeter? How about an amp meter? Are you still getting the "A" fault code? If so, verify that there is voltage feeding the control board. Now verify that you have voltage feeding the heating element. If not, you have a problem with the control board. If so, measure the amperage of the heating element. What do you find?
Make sure the coach is level any time the ref. is in use.
__________________

[InPursuit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RV Wizard Do you have a multimeter? How about an amp meter?

VOM only on this trip

Quote:

Are you still getting the "A" fault code? If so, verify that there is voltage feeding the control board.

120V at the receptacle and at the end of the cord feeding the board.
But yes, still getting the A code.

Quote:

Now verify that you have voltage feeding the heating element.

which is located where?
I'll assume it's behind that same board..

Quote:

What do you find?

I find that there are control circuit fuses to look at.

First I've heard of them.

5amp AGC ... and no longer going to "A".

cross your fingers and see if it holds.

[InPursuit]

Update:
I'm a little better informed on the internals on Norcold controls...
I've replaced a 5amp fuse on the control board
(that was hiccuping the 120V heater functioning)

but I'm still at square one:
The refrigerator isn't getting cold.

There is no evidence of Ammonia Leak (yellow powder or smell)...
so assuming that the ammonia is still inside the refr coil/piping...
what's it gonna take to get it expanding and circulating...
and actually cooling?

Anyone?
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And I really hope everyone else is having more fun on Christmas Eve than I am.

[Gary - K7GLD]

At this point, it sounds like an internal obstruction in the cooling unit...

[Dr4Film]

You didn't say whether the 120 volt heaters were getting voltage to them and heating up the burner stack and subsequently heating the cooling unit tubes?

Also, if you try the LPG once again, does that heat up the burner stack and the cooling unit tubing?

If you have tried both unsuccessfully and the inside frig and freezer compartments still don't cool down, then my guess is that you have a toasted cooling unit.

The important item to remember is that it takes heat to make the inside of the frig cold. If your absorber tank and cooling tubes are cold when using 120 volt AC then the heaters need to be checked making sure they are heating the solution inside the cooling unit tubes. Same goes for the LPG, does the flame remain on and the tubes and absorber tank get hot?

Dr4Film ----- Richard.

[InPursuit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr4Film You didn't say whether the 120 volt heaters were getting voltage to them and heating up the burner stack and subsequently heating the cooling unit tubes?

I suppose I didn't.
but YES the tank and LOWER piping all heats up just fine on 120.

Quote:

Also, if you try the LPG once again, does that heat up the burner stack and the cooling unit tubing?

gonna give that one more try.
But as that was always just fine... well, I don't hold out much hope

Quote:

If you have tried both unsuccessfully and the inside frig and freezer compartments still don't cool down, then my guess is that you have a toasted cooling unit.

shhh! we trying to avoid actually saying that.

I've heard stories of removal and tossing the thing around to unblock and in a previous incident I had (last Oct) a couple of passes over some RR tracks seemed to do the trick too.

::sigh::

["007"]

If you can feel the cooling unit pipes heating up you have to allow sufficient time for fridge to cool down.
The first place to check is in the freezer, touch the metal plate and you will feel it get colder as fridge becomes colder.
The fridge is going to need 8-12 hours to fully cool its a slow process.
If your thermostat is OK it should request cooling from the burner or electric which ever your using.
You can force either LP Gas or electric by taking fridge off AUTO control and selecting the function you want.

[InPursuit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by "007" If your thermostat is OK it should request cooling from the burner or electric which ever your using.

:sigh:

I thought I had asked about this aspect already.
edit: Yeah, I did. Post #3 way back at the top.

Is there an objective test (ohms?) for what it should be doing?
A way to "hot wire"it maybe?

(This is Christmas weekend so not too many place to go fetch parts now)
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When I first started this mission that plate (at base of freezer) was cold but not cold enough to freeze anything and the refr portion has had no cooling at all no matter what has been going on.

We're now 4 hrs into that 8-12 hr process but the plate is not cold at all now... the LP burner is going gangbusters with the tank and lower pipes all nice and warm... BUT!
but the upper piping along the back of the refr itself is "room temp"
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I really don't mind the occasional Franklin being needed to keep a 10yo bargain RV going... but I really don't want to have to stack ten of them if I can help it.

["007"]

If you look at figure 11.12 its your thermistor.
Now look for this thermistor on a 1200 pg 19 section 3 which clips on cooling fin in the box of fridge.
This one can be removed and placed in a bucket of ice to test yours can't.
Your plugs into the display board on face of your fridge. You can only take voltage readings at board where it plugs in.
Not sure what would happen if you jumper across leads it would just stay on looking for more cooling because it would indicate its not satisfied.