Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > RV SYSTEMS AND TECHNOLOGIES FORUMS > RV Systems & Appliances
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-13-2016, 02:51 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
bowpulpit's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Georgia
Posts: 454
Norcold to Residential

Our 14 year old Norcold (1200LRIM) gave up the ghost last week. Could not get it to turn on and when I removed the outside cover I could smell ammonia and also found yellow residue on the pipe close to the propane burner. Cant say I'm too sad as we've fought with this fridge on and off over the last 4 years. So I'm going to convert to a residential. Like others here I'm installing a Samsung RF18 SS. I"ve already removed the Norcold which was surprisingly quite easy (I've been photo documenting this process to submit to this site when done). Now I'm in the process of rerouting the drain, hot & cold lines around the front of the propane heater so I can lower a new base floor to give me the height I need.

My question to those that have done this before me is, did you seal off completely the sidewall vent as well as the roof vent? And how did you do so?

Thanks in advance for your assistance.
__________________
Steve & Debbie + Bentley-Std Poodle
2016 Newmar Ventana LE 4037

bowpulpit is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 12-13-2016, 03:01 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
bokobird's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: The Constitution State
Posts: 4,561
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowpulpit View Post
Our 14 year old Norcold (1200LRIM) gave up the ghost last week. Could not get it to turn on and when I removed the outside cover I could smell ammonia and also found yellow residue on the pipe close to the propane burner. Cant say I'm too sad as we've fought with this fridge on and off over the last 4 years. So I'm going to convert to a residential. Like others here I'm installing a Samsung RF18 SS. I"ve already removed the Norcold which was surprisingly quite easy (I've been photo documenting this process to submit to this site when done). Now I'm in the process of rerouting the drain, hot & cold lines around the front of the propane heater so I can lower a new base floor to give me the height I need.

My question to those that have done this before me is, did you seal off completely the sidewall vent as well as the roof vent? And how did you do so?

Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Similar story to yours, just happened last month. What my plan is for the sidewall vent is to lay pieces of plastic (Lexan or similar type plastic) across each slot and silicon caulk the heck out of it to hold it together/prevent air/water from coming in. Haven't tackled the top area yet but I'm thinking I might just block that off as well, no need to vent anything there. It'd be easy enough to lay a piece of plastic across the opening, seal it up with silicon and put the cover back on so it looks nice. My installation tolerances were such that the new fridge has plenty of ventilation along the sides and across the top per their install manual.
__________________
Carl
'07 Newmar KSDP3916 w/Hydralift/'06 FLHX, '15 Equinox, Blue Ox Alpha, RVibrake2, FMCA F476758
With Mac (28 yrs) and Boko (25 yrs) the birds...
bokobird is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2016, 03:15 PM   #3
paz
Senior Member
 
paz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Full-timers - Home is where we park it.
Posts: 4,722
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowpulpit View Post
...My question to those that have done this before me is, did you seal off completely the sidewall vent as well as the roof vent? And how did you do so?

Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Yes, when I installed a Samsung in the motorhome we used to have, I sealed off the vents in the removable sidewall panel and the roof vent. The Norcold is sealed off from the outside, but the Samsung isn't so hot outside air in the summer or cold air in the winter (and also critters) will get into the rig if you don't seal the vents.

I bought a sheet of 3/4 or 1" aluminum-clad foam insulation and a roll of high quality aluminum duct tape (don't use the cloth kind - the adhesive gets gummy and fails in a short time) at Home Depot. I cut pieces of the foam to fit around the vents in the old outside access panel and sealed them in place with the aluminum tape. You can also buy a non-vented panel to replace the vented one, but we had full body paint so I wanted to keep the old cover.

I sealed the roof vent by removing the cover and putting a piece of flashing under it.
paz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2016, 05:19 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
LookAtUSNow's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Stone Mountain, Ga
Posts: 282
I bought a sticky sided roll of foam insulation, I believe it is hvac pipe wrap and covered the wall vent with it. This still gives me access to the water valve and back of fridge in a pinch. As for the ceiling vent, I took a piece of luan and covered the hole from the inside, I then put a plastic bag in the hole from topside and filed it with spray foam to expand and fill the hole. It's worked fine foe two years of fulltime. I didn't want to make it to permanent in the event they come up with a reliable rv fridge or if someone down the road wanted to go back to an rv fridge.
__________________
Anthony & DW
2001 Ultimate Freedom
Cummins 350 ISC, Spartan MM GT Chasis
LookAtUSNow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2016, 05:30 PM   #5
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: indio california
Posts: 963
Quote:
(and also critters) will get into the rig if you don't seal the vents.
why would they now and not before? makes no sense to me?
plus not sure how big your current fridge vent holes are but mine are tiny tiny ones

I left my vent as is because the compressor is right there and it allows the compressor condenser fan system to draw cooler air for cooling
select55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2016, 05:54 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
LookAtUSNow's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Stone Mountain, Ga
Posts: 282
Mine side vent holes are big eneough for a mouse, provided they could climb the side of the Rv, bugs could get in without a doubt. The Rv fridge was sealed or should have been in the inside of the coach making the area behind it an uncditioned area such as a garage or attic. Once you remove the Rv fridge for a residential, your need to close off the outside vents would be a personal one I suppose. Leaving it open will allow traffic fumes, campfire smoke and anything else to include bugs access to the inside of coach.
__________________
Anthony & DW
2001 Ultimate Freedom
Cummins 350 ISC, Spartan MM GT Chasis
LookAtUSNow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2016, 07:07 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
jleamo1's Avatar
 
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 596
I sealed off my roof and side wall with screen and spray foam (the roof already had a heavy screen from the factory). I originally left them open figuring the heat would exit through the roof. Then came a cold morning and the unit shut down as the oil in the compressor was too cold for it to operate. So I opened up the inside bottom and sealed off the roof and side wall. Worked fine ever since.
__________________
2002 Holiday Rambler Imperial 40PKD
with Residential refrigerator conversion
2014 Jeep Wrangler in tow, M&G brake system
jleamo1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2016, 07:22 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Selah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,328
A friend had a tech install a residential fridge. The tech made sliding door to cover the exterior opening. The door slide up to provide access to the back of the fridge and was quite simple to build.
Edit: the door was on the inside and slid up behind the fridge.

The owner is going to seal off the louvered exterior cover by mounting 1/4 inch plywood, painted black, to the inside of the panel. From the outside it will appear stock but everything will be sealed.
__________________
Paul, Kathy, and Tux the Mini Schnauzer
2014 Tiffin Phaeton 42 LH, 2013 Honda CRV
"When the time comes to look back, make sure you'll like what you see"
Selah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2016, 12:48 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
HD4Mark's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Coastal Campers
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Marathon, Florida
Posts: 2,909
Our Samsung ended up so close to the back wall I thought it would be better to have an opening the same size as the back of the fridge where the fan is. I used some plywood, bubble insulation and window screen. Cut the hole to about the same size and the opening in the back of the fridge. I'm not sure it was necessary but doesn't seem to hurt anything. Do have to be careful not to spray water in there when washing the rid though.
__________________
Mark & Nancy
2004 Winnebago Vectra 40KD
Shep dog, R.I.P. Kenzie dog Toad 2015 Jeep Wrangler Willys Wheeler
HD4Mark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2016, 01:04 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
mriderLeon's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Prince William, VA
Posts: 157
My vents are also permanently sealed. I have about 6 inches of space on top of the fridge. I mounted both outlets up there so I can use them. Haven't found anything else to mount up there yet, but I'll keep watching this list. Someone will find a use for the other power source.
__________________
Leon and Karen
Was - '02 Monaco Dynasty Chancellor
Burned and destroyed Dec 15, 2017
mriderLeon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2016, 02:59 PM   #11
paz
Senior Member
 
paz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Full-timers - Home is where we park it.
Posts: 4,722
Quote:
Originally Posted by select55 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by paz View Post
...(and also critters) will get into the rig if you don't seal the vents...
why would they now and not before? makes no sense to me?
RV refrigerators are open to the outside because they need air for combustion. They are sealed around the perimeter to keep inside air in and outside air (and critters) out. Residential refrigerators are not sealed around the perimeter so outside air can get in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by select55 View Post
plus not sure how big your current fridge vent holes are but mine are tiny tiny ones
Most of the louvered vents have mesh covering the openings, but the ones on the motorhome we used to have and most of the ones I have seen have 1/4" mesh over the openings. That is small enough to keep mice out, but not bugs.

The 5th wheel we have now came from the factory with a residential refrigerator. It has a solid access panel outside - it has no vents and there is no roof vent.


Quote:
Originally Posted by select55 View Post
I left my vent as is because the compressor is right there and it allows the compressor condenser fan system to draw cooler air for cooling
Leaving the vent open means you are heating and cooling the outside air. The refrigerator fan can draw air from the inside of the RV to cool the condenser just like the fridge you have at home draws air from the room. Most residential refrigerator manufacturers recommend a minimum spacing at the sides and/or at the top to allow air circulation for cooling.
paz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2016, 03:10 PM   #12
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: indio california
Posts: 963
to each their own;; on my MH the chance of bugs or mice? (not sure how they scale the side of a MH )? getting in are no different than when I had a Rv fridge ;; I left mine as is because its allows much better condenser cooling and that's important to longevity of the compressor
I suppose if your actually living in it 24/7/365 and in cold climates one would close it for the cold months
select55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2016, 03:19 PM   #13
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: indio california
Posts: 963
[QUOTEWhat my plan is for the sidewall vent is to lay pieces of plastic (Lexan or similar type plastic) across each slot and silicon caulk the heck out of it to hold it together/prevent air/water from coming in.][/QUOTE]

iam extremely curious as to how you stopped all this when you had a LPG fridge ? why is it such a concern now? makes no sense o me?

your LPG Fridge install was far far from air tight, let me clear on that one
and how could water be such a big concern now but not before?
select55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2016, 06:20 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
markmiiler's Avatar
 
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North Florida
Posts: 371
the Samsung has built in stops to keep back of fridge out far enough to allow sufficient air to escape up the back to operate correctly as design. I also had to relocate drain, fresh water and propane for our upgrade. The back of the cabinet fridge is in has a fake back that has to be takin out also. I had to relocate vacuum port also. Piece of cake I did make a dolly to put Samsung on to move around in coach the exact finished height to install new unit in as it was in the hall way I had to remove freezer door and the right door to get in hole. The Samsung does need to have doors off to enter coach.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	0624161551a.jpg
Views:	101
Size:	91.2 KB
ID:	146737  
__________________
Mark & Shana Miller
2016 tiffin Pheaton
Go Gators
markmiiler is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
norcold



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
replacing Norcold 683 with residential fridge Papa_Jim Monaco Owner's Forum 5 09-24-2012 02:36 PM
Journey fridge swap, Norcold to residential smlranger Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 46 09-11-2012 06:20 PM
Replacing Norcold with residential ??????? Romer1 RV Systems & Appliances 3 08-10-2012 07:40 AM
refrigerator, replacing norcold with residential Stretch Monaco Owner's Forum 8 10-07-2010 12:36 PM
Replace Norcold with Residential Fridge.?? smlranger RV Systems & Appliances 7 02-22-2010 09:40 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:03 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.