Norcold will not run on AC

[03HRVacationer]

Any sugestions, Norcold 1200 LRIM

I have power at the outlet but the panel is saying no AC, the unit is cooling fine on gas.

Thanks in advance.

[Bob O]

I would check the plug with drop light or anything electrical to verify first you have 110 volts. If you don;t haver the volts it might be a GFI tripped on that circuit? If you do have 110 volts, it might be a fuse on the motherboard or like me the motherboard was bad? Just some guesses Good luck
Bob O

[WindsorDave]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 03HRVacationer Any sugestions, Norcold 1200 LRIM I have power at the outlet but the panel is saying no AC, the unit is cooling fine on gas. Thanks in advance.

We have the same make and model refer and had the same symptoms as yours just two weeks ago. However, as Bob suggested, it was our GFI getting tripped by the 110 VAC outlet. Dirt, etc., had collected in the outlet housing and was leaking current causing the GFI to trip.

That said it appears as though you have an open AC connection in the wiring in the refer. Fortunately, most of it is accessible from the exterior panel.

Good luck and please let us know what you find.

Best,

["007"]

The 110 v is for the heating elements of refridge all other operations are 12v for control boards and gas operation. If you have a ice maker and its working ok that half of outlet is ok, try other cord for refridge in that part of outlet.
As someone said could be dirt or corrosion in that part of outlet and just needs to be cleaned with contact spray.

[03HRVacationer]

Thanks for the replies, I pulled the power cord off the board, tested the end for power when pluged in and have 120 at the end. Pluged it back in and the 5amp fuse above the plug has 120 volts passing through it. So that rules out the easy stuff. I guess it's going to take some real service.

Thanks again.

["007"]

Here is a wiring diagram of items off the circuit board. The pins for heating elements may be of interest to check.
If you reconnect the wire connections to board may clean spade clip connections to elements, can also use contact cleaner with wires removed. Dampness and corrosion can cause problems since we had some warm days.
The fuse holder could be cleaned also.

http://www.gasrefrigeration.net/nor_...00_621823d.pdf

[RV Wizard]

Al, if after you have cleaned everything up and the display still says there is no AC, when in fact you do have AC in, then the control board will need replacing.

[03HRVacationer]

Good news, After Roger's post I dug back in and found that the 5 amp 120 fuse was indeed blown. Checking a fuse for continity while installed doesn't work well duuuhhhh.

I'll replace it today and see if it was blown for any bad reasons. I have had the fridge on all summer.

Thanks for all the replies. Roger thanks for getting me back in there with the meter.

["007"]

Good job Al, we have found that fuses will test ok but it will turn out to be the thing its plugged into that is the problem, pulling the fuse and reinserting it will clear a problem also.
I think you will have no problem, happy camping.

[RV Wizard]

In the future you can check fuses with a volt meter across it while in the holder and power on. If you find voltage the fuse is open; no voltage the fuse is good if in fact you have voltage at it.

[03HRVacationer]

Thanks again you all,

New fuse and she's happy as a clam. The rig is 6 years old now and I've had it for 2 years. I use it year round, in the winter it's my snowmobileing camp. I guess you can expect some things like this to be creeping up. The best part is being able to come here and resolve most any issue I've come up with.

I'd be in deep doo doo with out IRV2 and alot lighter in the pocket.

Thanks Again!!