Not getting water through HW heater

[tom2step]

I have just bought a 05 Coachman Cascade 26' TT, I have been going over all the systems and have found a strange issue. This is the first time I have had a TT with HW bypass, I have found that the water pumps fine through all spickets if bypass is set to bypess, if it is set to use the HW heater I get no flow. I have pressure/water at the safety pop off valve, Im guessing that some kind of check valve is stuck, of a inline filter clog, any help.

I am embarrassed that I dont know the make and model of the heater, (I am a repair tech in another field and know better then ask ?'s without info) It is the OEM HW heater from Coachman and has both gas and electric built in, not the add on kit.

[IC2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom2step I have just bought a 05 Coachman Cascade 26' TT, I have been going over all the systems and have found a strange issue. This is the first time I have had a TT with HW bypass, I have found that the water pumps fine through all spickets if bypass is set to bypess, if it is set to use the HW heater I get no flow. I have pressure/water at the safety pop off valve, Im guessing that some kind of check valve is stuck, of a inline filter clog, any help. I am embarrassed that I dont know the make and model of the heater, (I am a repair tech in another field and know better then ask ?'s without info) It is the OEM HW heater from Coachman and has both gas and electric built in, not the add on kit.

It's probably an Atwood - most are. There is a check valve and bypass for winterizing particularly if there is a single valve. And yes, it can stick one direction or the other. Now, that bypass - some have a double valve set up and usually don't have a check valve. I would suggest that you remove the check - it's a pretty heavy duty brass device on the back side of the HW heater. Some can be disassembled and cleaned, others....... Mine too stuck so I just made up a double valve version, using easily obtained ball valves and a SS reinforced hose from Home Depot. Cost, if I recall was about $20. The purpose of that bypass is to reduce the amount of RV antifreeze needed to winterize

[John Hilley]

I just finished fixing the same problem. Mine has two check valves, one at the hot water outlet at the top of the water heater and one in the cold water inlet at the bottom of the water heater. Mine were 1/2" mpt to 1/2" mpt. I could only find 1/2" mpt to 1/2" fpt. I bought mine at Dyers RV online. Camco Back Flow Preventer. I used a 1" deep socket to remove the check valve. I had to also use a 1/2" hex close nipple to use the male to female check valve. I used a Flair-It tool to remove the plastic fittings. You can check to see whether it is the hot water out or the cold water in check valve by applying air to the shore water in connection. If it is the hot water out check valve, the hot water tank will fill with air, if it is the cold water check valve, it won't.

[tom2step]

Thank you, I have the single bypass valve, As for finding the correct check valve, does it prove any thing that I have water/pressure at the pop off valve. Also, what is my need for winterize if I drain every thing and live in the deep south, Charleston, SC

[John Hilley]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom2step Thank you, I have the single bypass valve, As for finding the correct check valve, does it prove any thing that I have water/pressure at the pop off valve. Also, what is my need for winterize if I drain every thing and live in the deep south, Charleston, SC

That pretty much means it is the check valve in the hot water out at the top of the tank.

[tom2step]

Quote:

Originally Posted by john hilley that pretty much means it is the check valve in the hot water out at the top of the tank.

ok thank you

[tom2step]

Update, removed top check valve and got unstuck, working fine now