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Old 11-09-2011, 12:02 AM   #29
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I have two 48 Watt Siemen's panels that were given to me that I set up next to my MH with a pointed rod that pivots outward. I've been to several "Solar" forums with mixed feelings about whether I need a controller for only 96 watts. On a good day, I can get ~6 amps out of them and connect them directly to my batteries.
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Old 11-12-2011, 12:52 PM   #30
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Just got my Amp Meter. It has blobs of solder between links for the range and a lot of blank resistor and capacitor holes. I'll just use it as is. The instructions are in typical Chinglish, but adequate.
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Old 11-12-2011, 07:40 PM   #31
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They configure those meters for dozens of different uses. They just do not want to advertize all the various capabilities so they can keep the slaes up. Did they want you to put the shunt on the negative battery lead?

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Old 11-12-2011, 08:25 PM   #32
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The drawings don't even show the shunt. They way they draw it, the meter is in series in the circuit. They show how to power it off of the same source or a separate source, but both drawing show the meter in series. Good way to release the factory installed smoke. The word shunt is not anywhere in the instructions.
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:30 PM   #33
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I would contact the seller. His ad specifically said:
Quote:
FAQ :
Q : Can it be powered from the same source being measured? How to wiring?
A : Yes, it can does this! You can find 'how to wiring' in wiring diagram.
and it was sold with a shunt. He is not providing what he said he was going to.

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Old 11-12-2011, 09:44 PM   #34
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How bout I tell him I wired it like his drawing and it caught fire. Maybe I can get a free one if I say I will give him a negative rating. They hate that.

I did plan on sending him a message about the drawing being wrong. It does work off of the same source. I'll try it with a 9V to see if it reads the same. It does agree with my month old Fluke DVM ampmeter. I have to wire the input the opposite of the drawing so it shows amp drain as a –.
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:52 PM   #35
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With a 9V, it reads the same with the input either way. 1.5 or –1.5.
With the same source, it reads 1.7 and -1.2.
Explain the ground loop thing to me. I think that is what is happening.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:02 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunner View Post
My guess is that most of the sellers have no idea of what an electron is.

Thanks for the refresher course.
The other day I went into Radio Shack, I needed a new positive lead for a Micronta Digital Multimeter, that was given to me about 10 years ago. Anyway the kid that was in there behind the counter didn't even know what I was looking for or where to find it in the store.

I also wanted to buy a 12vdc. pancake computer fan to install next to my Pro-Sine 2.0 inverter for better cooling in the compartment. I also wanted a digital Thermostat 12vdc. He didn't know his $#%& (you fill it in) from a hole in the ground.

I install the fan so when the 12v system is operating it runs. Now I need to get the thermostat. China Mart aka Wally World has them.


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Old 11-12-2011, 10:07 PM   #37
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If it wasn't for the electronic cash register, they wouldn't even know how to make change.

You want to really confuse them? Say the product is $5.40 and you give them $10.40, it totally blows their mind. Sad.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:27 PM   #38
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Quote:
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If it wasn't for the electronic cash register, they wouldn't even know how to make change.

You want to really confuse them? Say the product is $5.40 and you give them $10.40, it totally blows their mind. Sad.
Isn't that the truth, you get all of these urban legion e-mails about kids working at MickyD's not being able to make change sad to say it's true.

Off topic: My wife works for a local elementary school district, she brought home a McGraw-Hill Mathematics California Edition, they are no longer allowed to teach from the book


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Old 11-12-2011, 10:37 PM   #39
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I believe the situation is as follows:
The power lead has a + and - lead. The input has a + and - lead. Both - leads are connected together (common ground). When you place the shunt on the B+ side, the input side ground is not at actual B-.

↓--Meter Pwr+ _____Meter Pwr - ---↓
B+ -----+Shunt+-------+Load+-----B-
Input+--↑ _____↑---Input-

Essentially, the meter shorts out the load because the Input - and Meter - terminals are connected together

↓--Meter Pwr+ ______Meter Pwr - ---↓
B+ -----+Load+-------+Shunt+-----B-
____________Input+--↑_____ ↑---Input-

Both "-" at same common ground with shunt on return.

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Old 11-13-2011, 12:42 AM   #40
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This is my MSPaint version of the way their drawing is.
I added the shunt. When I reverse 3 & 4 on the shunt,
the reading changes from 1.8 to -1.2. With a 9V I can
calibrate it with the pot on the meter to 1.7 and it shows
1.7 with 3 & 4 either way. This agrees with my Fluke.
With it wired as shown below, the pot will not let me calibrate
it correctly. I can get 1.7 one way, but reversed, it reads -1.2.
I can change it to 2.0 one way, but the other way, it stays close
to -1.2. With no input, it reads 0.0 and the pot does not change that.

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Old 11-13-2011, 01:12 AM   #41
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I tried it this way and the meter display started to go weird
either way I had 3 & 4. Quickly disconnected it.
Why would that happen?

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Old 11-13-2011, 09:03 AM   #42
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Quote:
I tried it this way and the meter display started to go weird
either way I had 3 & 4. Quickly disconnected it.
Why would that happen?
As I said in my last post, they are using a common ground. From your first drawing I can see that the seller wants you to place the shunt on the negative side of the battery so that both "-" leads are at the same potential (common ground).

If I understand your comments correctly, with it wired like your first figure, you get 1.8 on the meter and if you use your Fluke you get 1.7. I assume you mean 1.7 amps when you remove the shunt and insert the Fluke in the circuit. I suspect that is nothing more than resolution accuracy between the 2 devices. The meter is measuring the voltage drop across the 50A 75mV shunt. That means it is in a +-200mV measurement range. 1.2 amps is at 2-4% of the measurement range. The Fluke however is most likely limited to 10 amps max due to the size of the internal shunt. That places a 1.2 at approximately 25% of the measurement range. Resolution in a 0-10amp range (Fluke) is much better than a 0-50amp range.
You cannot swap the leads 3 and 4 in the first drawing because you impact the common ground design. The only way you can check forward/reverse accuracy with this common ground setup is by setting up a external charger source with the charging B+ connection at pin 4 of the meter. That way, the shunt sees either discharge or charge current direction. You have to reverse the direction of current flow thorugh the shunt while maintaining the common ground setup.

Have you tried using 1 9V battery for the meter power (pins 1 & 2) and using a seperate 9V battery for your circuit? In that approach, you may be able to place the shunt on the B+ side of the load so the "+" and "-" indications represent the values you want them to read.

This all maps back to the pdf I sent you before: http://www.cd4power.com/data/meters/dms-an6.pdf

Dave
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