Community Forums

Jobee · 05-10-2019, 04:16 PM

Hello All, I often read but seldom post. However, I have an issue that has me baffled and concerned. I bought an ‘04 Southwind 37C last July, and didn’t realize until after I purchased it that it only has 30 amp service. I never even thought to check because it seems to me a no brainer that this coach would have 50 amp. It is fairly well appointed: 2 rooftop AC units, washer/dryer combo, microwave/convection oven combo, 4 door fridge/freezer with ice maker, etc. I can’t, for the life of me, figure out why it wouldn’t be 50 amp. At any rate, it has what I guess you would call a manual load management system with two toggle switches that control the power to the washer/dryer, microwave/convection oven, and the water heater. You can either have power to the laundry and hot water, or to the micro/conv oven. There is no way to have power to all three at once. I thought that to be unusual, and somewhat of an inconvenience, but something I could deal with. However, it gets worse. We did not use it until September so didn’t add the AC units to the mix until we started full timing at the end of February. We are currently in our second month in the Keys, and I am continually in power management mode. I now can’t run the water heater or the microwave without at least one AC going into SHED mode, which apparently is an automatic load management system that shuts down the compressor when their is too much current draw. Additionally, even with all this ‘management’ , I have blown the main circuit breaker once, and that breaker is pretty warm all the time. There is no ventilation in the cabinet where the electrical panel is, so I have taken off the cover, and am blowing a fan on it to keep it from overheating. Frankly, this is ridiculous. Has anyone else experienced problems like this? Is this the result of an extremely poor electrical system design, or is there something going on that I am missing. I am pretty electrically competent, and am trying to figure out if I can change it out to 50 amp. I know I would need to change the wiring from the post to the panel, and divide up the loads, but I wouldn’t have to change any of the rest of the wiring would I? Unfortunately, without doing some major tear down, I would not be able to get around the manual system with the switches because I assume there is only one breaker tied to those switches. Is this as unusual as I think it is? Any and all comments or feedback welcome. Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

MSHappyCampers · 05-10-2019, 04:38 PM

Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

Congrats on the new rig! Wish I could help with the power problem but totally unfamiliar with your rig. Have fun and keep her between the ditches!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!

Persistent · 05-10-2019, 04:51 PM

Is there a built-in generator and/or inverter? Other than the wall switches, is there a transfer switch (possibly an automatic one) on the incoming line?

F4Gary · 05-10-2019, 05:06 PM

That's the way it is supposed to work.
I don't have a w/d so I only have one of those selector switches. Mine is up for water heater and down for microwave.
They are high draw items so you can only run one at a time.
I think you can still heat your water with propane with the switch in another position.
The A/C system is an automatic load shedding system if you put it in Auto.
That's also the way it is supposed to work. Read the manual on the Intelitec system.
You just have to learn to manage your amperage draw.

Jobee · 05-10-2019, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Persistent

Is there a built-in generator and/or inverter? Other than the wall switches, is there a transfer switch (possibly an automatic one) on the incoming line?

I have an Onan 5500 gen. There was no inverter, but I installed one as a totally separate system. I plug my shore power cord into an outlet I wired from my inverter, so when I am on actual shore power, the inverter is completely out of the system. There is an automatic transfer switch.

Jobee · 05-10-2019, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers

Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

Congrats on the new rig! Wish I could help with the power problem but totally unfamiliar with your rig. Have fun and keep her between the ditches!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!

Thank you! Glad to be here!

Jobee · 05-10-2019, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F4Gary

That's the way it is supposed to work.
I don't have a w/d so I only have one of those selector switches. Mine is up for water heater and down for microwave.
They are high draw items so you can only run one at a time.
I think you can still heat your water with propane with the switch in another position.
The A/C system is an automatic load shedding system if you put it in Auto.
That's also the way it is supposed to work. Read the manual on the Intelitec system.
You just have to learn to manage your amperage draw.

Thanks much for the input. I guess I realize that is how it is supposed to work, but I am baffled by the choice to make it 30 amp instead of 50 amp with so many high draw appliances. I am also concerned that even with all this management in place, the circuit breaker is getting hot. I am really considering converting to 50 amp if I can figure it out.

I did forget to mention.. We absolutely love this rig! It has a great floor plan, 3 slides, very well made, and it’s in great shape. The electrical issues are really the only ‘gripe’ I have. I hope you enjoy yours as much as we do!

iamblum · 05-11-2019, 06:10 AM

It could be changed to a 50 amp. Could get pricey unless you do it yourself. #6 or #4 wire, new 120/240 panel, bypass the double pole double throw switches, a few more breakers and...

Persistent · 05-11-2019, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamblum

It could be changed to a 50 amp. Could get pricey unless you do it yourself. #6 or #4 wire, new 120/240 panel, bypass the double pole double throw switches, a few more breakers and...

A new transfer switch with built in inverter!

**Lt Dan** · 05-11-2019, 09:01 AM

A lot will depend on how your coach is set up now. I converted our '06 Itasca from 30 amp to 50 amp but was lucky in one respect. It already had a 50 amp transfer switch so I didn't have to change that. Do a Google search for "converting rv to 50 amp" and you'll find several videos and information on how to do it. If you are comfortable with electrical work, it's not a difficult job and well worth making the change. The hardest part was running a new 6ga wire from the transfer switch to the main breaker panel.

ByeTheWay · 05-16-2019, 04:39 PM

Wish I could help, but the Intelitec system on my Bounder kept me from buying a Fleetwood product a second time.

Jobee · 04-06-2020, 10:11 AM

Old thread, but if anyone has interest in what I did to remedy this, see this thread:
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/inli...ml#post5214503

Waiter21 · 04-07-2020, 03:40 PM

My 1999 Southwind is similar.

I made a minor modification to the generator circuit. I added a plug and receptacle to the generators Air Conditioner output. ( When on generator power, this circuit supplies power to the rear AC unit.)

When I'm on shore power, I unplug the rear AC unit from the newly installed generator receptacle, and using an extension cord, plug it into the 20 amp receptacle on the shore power pedestal.

When I do this, the rear A/C unit thinks its getting its power from the generator, so it doesn't draw any current through the regular 30 shore power. I did a short article with diagrams and photos on my web site:

Rear A/C unit can be run on separate 20 amp shore power circuit – 1999 Southwind 35S

..