Community Forums

anewtoi · 04-09-2013, 07:13 PM

I'm sure some of you have tried some of these portable units on the market. Which ones are of your liking and why. I have 50amp and 2 roof units and am about to be full timing off of a neighbors power meter. I'm thinking/hoping a portable unit will be more economical than my 2 units. What main concerns/features should I look for if I do go with the portables

bartlettj · 04-09-2013, 10:58 PM

Portable units are the least efficient. I would expect the roof units would be better. Check the nameplate for amps drawn versus BTU/hr capacity. The ones with the least amps for the most btu/h win.

Ed-Sommers · 04-10-2013, 08:52 AM

When you say "portables" I assume you are talking the ones you have inside, and have a hose going to a window for intake and exhaust.

While they work to some degree, they also put some heat back into the air because of their design.

On the other hand, if you are talking "window" air conditioners, they work great. With experimentation, I've successfully managed cool my 35 foot metal skinned RV using only a 9000 BTU window unit aided by the judicious placement of small, high speed, fans.

As the fans (24 Volt) are of high efficiency, they do produce some noticeable noise, but as I Boondock exclusively, it's worth the trade-off IMHO.

However, the Prudes of the RV community would never, ever, utilize such a "Hillbilly" method as this, But they they probably wouldn't be Boondocking either.

Ed
Navy Retired

anewtoi · 04-10-2013, 10:31 AM

Hmm. Hadn't really thought about the window units. How did you manage the install? My windows slide side to side. The only one that is vertical Is the small window in the kitchen which is at most 16 inches. I doubt I'd be able to get one that small.

Murf2u · 04-13-2013, 06:57 AM

I've got a friend who uses a 9k BTU 'window shaker' in his Class C so he can get by with a small Honda ultra-quiet genny. In his case he mounted it in the storage space under the rear bed then made up ducting to blow the cold air out through the bed base.

His only goal is to keep the unit cool during the day, at night he opens the windows so having the unit right under the bed isn't a concern. Not losing valuable real estate in an already small C was.

bruceisla · 04-13-2013, 07:14 AM

There are window units for casement windows ... depends on dimensions of your windows.
LG Electronics 9,500 BTU Casement Window Air Conditioner with Remote-LW1011CR at The Home Depot

However, most window units require external support.

ralphie · 04-13-2013, 08:24 AM

I had a portable Penguin with the intake/exhaust hoses that I used in a sunroom for a while. It worked very well. But, I doubt it is as efficient as your rooftop unit(s). I would check out the amp/btu rating of each to determine which is best before putting your money down on a portable.

Ed-Sommers · 04-13-2013, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anewtoi

Hmm. Hadn't really thought about the window units. How did you manage the install? My windows slide side to side. The only one that is vertical Is the small window in the kitchen which is at most 16 inches. I doubt I'd be able to get one that small.

My windows are side to side slide also, as in converted MCI Bus.

I placed a piece of plywood, cut to size, in a rear window, then cut the proper hole in the plywood.

Done properly, it takes just minutes to place, or withdraw, the AC unit, and then the plywood, for periods of travel.

I started experiments with a 2500 BTU window unit, and found that it will freeze me out of the rear one third of the RV (about 10 feet) when blocking off the bedroom.

The 9000 BTU unit cools the entire 35 feet to 80 degrees in 100 degree days, which I try to avoid!

Ed