Community Forums

strongcity · 03-12-2018, 05:01 PM

You can check the pedestal with a volt meter and it will tell you if it wired correctly or not plus it can tell you if it is the correct voltage at the moment. Then after you plug in your RV and star applying a load that all can change. I'm talking a 50 amp system. In the case of a loose neutral it is very possible to go from 120 volts to 240 volts. That makes it possible to burn up everything that is powered up on that line in your RV. I had this happen with a TRC 34750 surge guard in place. TRC offered to sell me another one. I bought a Progressive unit. Progressive units work, plus a life time warranty and great customer support.

TLGPE · 03-12-2018, 05:19 PM

My question for those who have the Autoformer is: will it drop the voltage if it's too high?

Our Progressive unit protects us from bad or wrong power, but does not correct anything. The Hughes unit talks about boosting voltage, but we often find parks with 135V. The Progressive shuts it down and we cannot connect.

Anyone have any experience on this?

Tom

palehorse89 · 03-12-2018, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TLGPE

My question for those who have the Autoformer is: will it drop the voltage if it's too high?

Our Progressive unit protects us from bad or wrong power, but does not correct anything. The Hughes unit talks about boosting voltage, but we often find parks with 135V. The Progressive shuts it down and we cannot connect.

Anyone have any experience on this?

Tom

The autoformer's just boost low voltage.......something is way wrong if the park's voltage is at 135v !! The step down transformer on the pole is failing I would guess. Park needs to call the electric company with voltage's that high.....
http://www.science.smith.edu/~jcarde...ecPwr_HSW.html

lynnmor · 03-12-2018, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TLGPE

My question for those who have the Autoformer is: will it drop the voltage if it's too high?

Our Progressive unit protects us from bad or wrong power, but does not correct anything. The Hughes unit talks about boosting voltage, but we often find parks with 135V. The Progressive shuts it down and we cannot connect.

I you "often" find 135 volts, my guess is that the meter is incorrect. It takes a serious malfunction of the power supply leading to the campground to cause that much over voltage. I have never seen a voltage that was too high.

TLGPE · 03-12-2018, 09:12 PM

We were in the western states and found the high voltages. The progressive unit stopped the transfer switch from connecting sometimes and at other times it would "short cycle". The park manager at Winnamouma called the power company, but they just said it couldn't happen. My two other digital meters agreed that the voltage was high.

The voltage would surge (I think) when the AC's of some of the other residents would cycle off. Less load ment higher voltage, so the PI would trip off.

A true autotransformer can be dialed down as well as up. That's why I asked.

Tom

homeless · 03-13-2018, 11:20 AM

So back to a more simple question! All these surge protectors, weather cheep or expansive, do not manage current but stop your power if anything is a miss?

UFO Pilot · 03-13-2018, 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by homeless

So back to a more simple question! All these surge protectors, weather cheep or expansive, do not manage current but stop your power if anything is a miss?

None of them will "fix" the problem. They are only designed to stop the problem from damaging your RV.

saddlesore · 03-13-2018, 12:17 PM

Progressive Industries ems-hw50c has saved our bacon several times....

185EZ · 03-13-2018, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by saddlesore

Progressive Industries ems-hw50c has saved our bacon several times....

I believe that's the one I'm interested in, EMS-LCHW50
I can save $100 by purchasing the hardwire model vs the plug type.
Is anyone splicing it into the shore power cord?
Looks to be a project if I wire it inside the coach since my cord plugs into the side.
Like this,

shiggs68 · 03-13-2018, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 185EZ

I believe that's the one I'm interested in, EMS-LCHW50
I can save $100 by purchasing the hardwire model vs the plug type.
Is anyone splicing it into the shore power cord?
Looks to be a project if I wire it inside the coach since my cord plugs into the side.
Like this,

I have seen people put plugs/sockets on each side so it can be removed and used on the next rig.

Also get the remote display and mount it inside your RV. Handy to watch your power needs.

UFO Pilot · 03-13-2018, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shiggs68

I have seen people put plugs/sockets on each side so it can be removed and used on the next rig.

That is how I installed mine.

John Boy · 03-14-2018, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by homeless

Ok I'm not too cheep to buy this item. I assume you have one? If so can I plug it into the pedestal before I park my rig and test the power? Or is it the kind of thing that if power is not right it simply doesn't let you have power? Can I also use it for those cheep parks that only have 30 amp? I see similar items for $350 big different in prices?

I use my 50 amp model between the 30/50 dogbone and my 50 amp plug when appropriate.

Quote:

Originally Posted by shiggs68

Not sure you understand what you are asking.

What does “pedestal that has over wattage” mean? The outlets are rated 120vac/15 or 20amps, 120vac/30amps, and/or 120/240vac/50amps.

Power and voltage are different terms.

There are adapters to plug your RV shore cable into most any outlet available which may limit what you can run.

185EZ · 03-14-2018, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shiggs68

I have seen people put plugs/sockets on each side so it can be removed and used on the next rig.

Also get the remote display and mount it inside your RV. Handy to watch your power needs.

That's a good idea.
Do they cut the ends off a connector and use the existing wire?
Maybe that's a silly question but I want to get this protector so I don't mess things up. Electrical isn't my strong point.

Cable
I need 50 amp ends so I'm not sure how cost effective it will be vs buying the plug in model.
Thanks for the tip

shiggs68 · 03-14-2018, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 185EZ

That's a good idea.
Do they cut the ends off a connector and use the existing wire?
Maybe that's a silly question but I want to get this protector so I don't mess things up. Electrical isn't my strong point.

Cable
I need 50 amp ends so I'm not sure how cost effective it will be vs buying the plug in model.
Thanks for the tip

The potable model already has a plug the goes to the campground post and an outlet that your shore cable plugs into.

The hardwired model is designed to cut the main cable inside your RV and wire it permanently.
What I have seen is cut that cable install an outlet,
plug and short cable to the hardwired unit.
On the other side short cable from the unit to a outlet,
last a plug on the cable going to your RV.

If you decide to remove the hardwired unit just plug the original cable together.