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Old 10-17-2016, 07:41 AM   #15
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Well this thread sure helped finish up a home project for me.
IRV2 sure is a great place to get the correct answers. Someone has been there.......done that, and willing to share.
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Old 10-17-2016, 08:17 AM   #16
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Well this thread sure helped finish up a home project for me I have an extension cord ran from my add on inverter to the reefer area but did not want to run the inverter when I had shore power nor did I want to pull the outter body panel off to switch the plug, this fits the bill for me.

My three way frig always operates great on AC not so much on propane when it's hot out.
If your planning on running a RV type fridge thru an inverter, keep in mind that they use about 3 times the power of residential fridges.

My residential fridge draws 10 amps@ 12 volts DC, at the inverter input, and the RV type, about the same size, draws 35 amps@ 12 volts DC.

Running down the road, should be fine, due to alternator output, but while parked, without power, the batteries will run down pretty quick.
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Old 10-17-2016, 08:26 AM   #17
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I did this conversion last winter. I documented it in a pretty lengthy thread over here: Converting to residential fridge - Truck Conversion & Toterhome Community

Hopefully some of it will be helpful to you.
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Old 10-17-2016, 08:27 AM   #18
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WAIT !!!!

Did someone say cooking in a crock pat in an outside bay while running down the road !?!?!

You've never been on the roads I drive or how much my coach bobs and weaves side to side

I can see the trail of stew on the road with hungry dogs running after you

but seriously, as we will NEVER have another rv absorption fridge from throwing too much food out when it got too warm...
fairly confident you will need batteries as all coaches get too hot for the fridge to stay cool without power!
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Old 10-17-2016, 08:39 AM   #19
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WAIT !!!!

Did someone say cooking in a crock pat in an outside bay while running down the road !?!?!

You've never been on the roads I drive or how much my coach bobs and weaves side to side

I can see the trail of stew on the road with hungry dogs running after you

but seriously, as we will NEVER have another rv absorption fridge from throwing too much food out when it got too warm...
fairly confident you will need batteries as all coaches get too hot for the fridge to stay cool without power!
Works great, been doing it for 4 years, 2 different MH's. The lower you go the less movement, the lid bungee corded and a cooking bag help also.

So far as refers check this No more Norcold or Dometic for 2017
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Old 10-17-2016, 08:48 AM   #20
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If your planning on running a RV type fridge thru an inverter, keep in mind that they use about 3 times the power of residential fridges.

My residential fridge draws 10 amps@ 12 volts DC, at the inverter input, and the RV type, about the same size, draws 35 amps@ 12 volts DC.

Running down the road, should be fine, due to alternator output, but while parked, without power, the batteries will run down pretty quick.
In recent years we seem to be on shore power more often than not as well as staying longer in one spot. The two house batteries have been more than adequate so far but in the back of my mind the first instance of them appearing to be inadequate I wll add two more 6 volts.

My reefer has no problem keeping the box in the 32-36 range (without continual door opening) set on three except on propane when the outside temps get into the high 90 or low 100 mark that said all last summer waiting for the interior box temps to raise so I could see what would happen switching to 120 it did not happen. I did not want to push my luck by running on propane as a test while shore power was available. 200-300 miles in a day would now seem line a very long day. Going from military base to base most times it's maybe up to 150 a day

My intent of having the ability to change over is just when I think it would help not all the time.

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IRV2 sure is a great place to get the correct answers. Someone has been there.......done that, and willing to share.
That's what drew me here when I bought my first and only RV of any type I had 0 experience using a RV so I did a lot of Internet searching about things after it was purchased and the vast majority of searches brought me to iRV2.

So here I am for the foreseeable future.
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Old 10-27-2016, 03:07 AM   #21
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Spent a few dollars yesterday getting started on the project. Bought the refrigerator and ice maker at Home Depot Whirlpool 10.7 cu. ft. Top Freezer Refrigerator in Monochromatic Stainless Steel-WRT111SFDM - The Home Depot these are on back-order right now so it will be Nov 17th before I get it.

Also, ordered the Xantrex transfer device from Amazon it will be here Friday.

I'm guessing the back-order is due to Fleetwood using these in some of their coaches.
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Old 10-27-2016, 07:51 AM   #22
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That's the unit I've been looking at as well. I wish I could see one before buying to see exactly how the doors are. I'm limited in the space I have available but I think this one would work.
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Old 10-27-2016, 08:49 AM   #23
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That's the unit I've been looking at as well. I wish I could see one before buying to see exactly how the doors are. I'm limited in the space I have available but I think this one would work.
If there is a Fleetwood dealer near by look at a new Flair, Storm, or Jamboree they use this unit in several floorplans. Not many appliance dealers stock them in my area, but Home Depot and Lowes sell them. If you look carefully at the link I posted earlier all the specs are listed as you scroll down. Doors are reversible and have gallon jug storage. I have used on my outside Lanai for several years with no problems.
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Old 10-29-2016, 11:41 AM   #24
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Brockx - We are currently replacing our 1210 refrigerator in our 2007 Bounder also. But we are running into a problem trying to get the old Norcold out of the motorhome. It's alittle deeper than we anticipated so we need to gain about 2 inches off the depth inorder to get it out the door. We are concerning with trying to get all the junk off the back of the frig so we have the clearance we need. Have you run into this problem yet or will you have enough clearance. Very concerned about leakage from the cooling system when trying to get the coils off the back.
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Old 10-29-2016, 11:57 AM   #25
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Brockx - We are currently replacing our 1210 refrigerator in our 2007 Bounder also. But we are running into a problem trying to get the old Norcold out of the motorhome. It's alittle deeper than we anticipated so we need to gain about 2 inches off the depth inorder to get it out the door. We are concerning with trying to get all the junk off the back of the frig so we have the clearance we need. Have you run into this problem yet or will you have enough clearance. Very concerned about leakage from the cooling system when trying to get the coils off the back.
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Quite often the old refrigerators is taken out of a coach, (and a new refrigerator is brought into the coach), through a window opening from which the window has been removed.
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Old 10-29-2016, 01:44 PM   #26
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Quite often the old refrigerators is taken out of a coach, (and a new refrigerator is brought into the coach), through a window opening from which the window has been removed.
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We got our problem solved and our refrigerator is now outside (through the door). Thanks anyway.
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Old 10-29-2016, 04:48 PM   #27
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Previous coach, I installed a Samsung residential, wish I had it in his coach. We never connected it to an inverter. We don't boondock, so it didn't matter.

If we were on the road, I would hit super cool button first thing in the morning before we left. We like to have lunch in the rig, so 20 minutes before lunch stop, I'd start the genny. 20 minutes down the road after lunch I would turn it off. Had a remote temp sensor in it and the master thermometer on the dash. I could watch temps in the fridge all day. I think I had to turn the genny on mid afternoon only a couple of times. Outside temps over .100.

If you do the math, genny uses less than 1 gallon fuel per hour. How many hours do you have to run the genny ( which needs running occasionally anyway) to pay for inverter, batteries, cables? For us it was a lot of years.
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Old 10-30-2016, 05:19 AM   #28
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We got our problem solved and our refrigerator is now outside (through the door). Thanks anyway.
Sorry I did not see this until this morning, glad you worked it out. I have not started my removal. My sons will be here for early Christmas in early Dec. and we will do the swap then. I have assumed removing the doors will give me enough room to get it out, will remove the rear cooling apparatus if needed. My door opening is 24.300 (24 5/16). Would appreciate anything you can share on your removal.

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