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Old 01-21-2017, 09:57 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by Brockx View Post
Excuse my ignorance but are those wire sizes by distance reversed?
4-0 gauge is larger than 4 or 2 gauge. The numbers go down to 0 and then up as 1-0, 2-0. and up.

I guess the started the numbering in the wrong spot.
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Old 01-21-2017, 10:03 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
My understanding is that you need a larger gauge AWG wire for a longer run than for a shorter run to minimize any significant voltage drop.

With that said it makes sense that they are reversed.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Thanks for the info you sent earlier, I read your info after I sent the question back on gauge/distance. Your charts verify gauge increase with increased distance.

Edit; Post 57 came thru while I was typing the above. Glad I don't do much electrical, I would drink alot.
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Old 01-21-2017, 10:18 AM   #59
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OK, then proper numbering of wire sizes, smaller gauge to larger gauge, would be:

12
10
8
6
4
2
1/0
2/0
4/0
6/0

Etc.

I understand now. Thanks.

I just had some Florida Light & Power repairs done at my house service and they stated they use 1/0 aluminum service wire to my weather-proof house cable which is 1/0 copper. From there it goes to the meter block and into my 200 amp service panel.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 01-21-2017, 11:27 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brockx View Post

I have been of the understanding to avoid long runs of 12V wiring to an inverter and use the 110V output for longer runs. My problem is how long is too long for a 12V run, this never seems to be stated? It seems to me factory installed inverters are generally in the rear of coaches and batteries in the front. My choices are narrow for installing the inverter I am considering the refer area.
RV manufacturers don't always follow the Equipment Mnfrs guidelines. My batteries are at the rear, beside the engine and the ME 3100 inverter is mid coach, a good 20' + away. They used 3/0 cables. This exceeds Magnum's recommendations. Probably not a problem since I will seldom use it's full potential. I never run the microwave off the batteries.
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Old 01-21-2017, 04:16 PM   #61
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OK now that we have the wire gauge sizes straight, What you are really concerned with is voltage drop on your 12 Vdc side. The shorter the wire run to the inverter, the less voltage drop when you get there. The high voltage side has less voltage drop per foot. That is why solar panels that are more than 30 ft. from the batteries are run at 36-125 Vdc. That is also why our national power grid system runs on AC and not DC. You can run many, many miles @130,000 volts and only about 2 blocks @ 24 volts.
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Old 01-21-2017, 04:37 PM   #62
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OK now that we have the wire gauge sizes straight, What you are really concerned with is voltage drop on your 12 Vdc side. The shorter the wire run to the inverter, the less voltage drop when you get there. The high voltage side has less voltage drop per foot. That is why solar panels that are more than 30 ft. from the batteries are run at 36-125 Vdc. That is also why our national power grid system runs on AC and not DC. You can run many, many miles @130,000 volts and only about 2 blocks @ 24 volts.
The reason for the changing wire size vs distance chart is to maintain the same small voltage drop. Any of the wires listed will carry the current with no problem. That said shorter is definitely cheaper. Better is a different question with more variables than voltage drop and cost.
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