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07-07-2011, 06:20 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 157
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my cook top will not light like it is out of gas. if i switch the refrigerator over to propane from a/c for about 30 seconds the stove will light. it must be a control valve problem but where. 
thanks you
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07-07-2011, 06:56 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 248
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Will the stove still keep working if you switch the Refrigerator back to AC?
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07-07-2011, 07:28 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Bradenton, Fl.
Posts: 210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beaverfever
my cook top will not light like it is out of gas. if i switch the refrigerator over to propane from a/c for about 30 seconds the stove will light. it must be a control valve problem but where. 
thanks you
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Is your RV a Beaver. They're pretty high-end with lots of complicated crap. We RV techs don't like 'em. As for your problem, the first thought that comes to mind is maybe your coach has an "on demand" electric valve on the propane vapor withdrawal line. IOW, you must turn on something with 12v power that needs propane as well to open the valve. This is pretty far-fetched but I've seen worse.
If it's a Beaver, you probably have a propane on/off switch which controls a valve on or near your ASME tank. Are you turning it on? Maybe you aren't but the fridge knows to do it if required.
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07-07-2011, 11:07 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airtool
Will the stove still keep working if you switch the Refrigerator back to AC?
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yes the stoves keeps working just fine
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07-07-2011, 11:10 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgreen45
Is your RV a Beaver. They're pretty high-end with lots of complicated crap. We RV techs don't like 'em. As for your problem, the first thought that comes to mind is maybe your coach has an "on demand" electric valve on the propane vapor withdrawal line. IOW, you must turn on something with 12v power that needs propane as well to open the valve. This is pretty far-fetched but I've seen worse.
If it's a Beaver, you probably have a propane on/off switch which controls a valve on or near your ASME tank. Are you turning it on? Maybe you aren't but the fridge knows to do it if required.
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yes it is a beaver.
i'm not turning any thing other than the knob on the stove.
i have not had this problem before just turn knob and it would fire up
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07-08-2011, 05:37 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Bradenton, Fl.
Posts: 210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beaverfever
yes it is a beaver.
i'm not turning any thing other than the knob on the stove.
i have not had this problem before just turn knob and it would fire up
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On this info as well as your answer to airtool, I want to suspect a sticking pressure regulator. The demand of the stove isn't high enough to let it kick open but with the added demand of the fridge, it releases. Just pondering...
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07-08-2011, 05:43 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgreen45
On this info as well as your answer to airtool, I want to suspect a sticking pressure regulator. The demand of the stove isn't high enough to let it kick open but with the added demand of the fridge, it releases. Just pondering...
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thanks for your time and expertise. is this something i can replace or do you recommend having a pro do it 
again thank you
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07-09-2011, 05:43 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Bradenton, Fl.
Posts: 210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beaverfever
thanks for your time and expertise. is this something i can replace or do you recommend having a pro do it 
again thank you
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In talking to the other guys in the shop, a sticking regulator doesn't make sense. There's a 2-stage regulator on or near your ASME tank. The stove/oven also has an additional regulator. If you don't mind, I'd like to ask several questions.
Can you recall any recent events or maintenance just prior to the start of this problem?
LP tank has plenty of supply?
Water heater .... running on LP or 120v?
How long to create the problem ... IOW, use stove today and problem again tomorrow?
Most Beavers have an electrical LP shut-off and ALL ASME tanks have a manual shut-off. Are you using either/both when parking?
Has the coach been stored recently or are you live-ins?
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07-09-2011, 10:43 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgreen45
In talking to the other guys in the shop, a sticking regulator doesn't make sense. There's a 2-stage regulator on or near your ASME tank. The stove/oven also has an additional regulator. If you don't mind, I'd like to ask several questions.
Can you recall any recent events or maintenance just prior to the start of this problem?  none
LP tank has plenty of supply?  full
Water heater .... running on LP or 120v?  aqua hot no lp involved
How long to create the problem ... IOW, use stove today and problem again tomorrow?  had not used stove for about 3 weeks
Most Beavers have an electrical LP shut-off and ALL ASME tanks have a manual shut-off. Are you using either/both when parking?  not using either
Has the coach been stored recently or are you live-ins?  just got back from 6 weeks on the road then sat for 3weeks
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thanks
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07-09-2011, 11:19 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Bradenton, Fl.
Posts: 210
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Since no propane is in use under normal circumstances, I suspect leak down is the primary issue. When firing up an LP appliance after an extended shutdown, it can take several minutes to refill the lines with LP. Just to be on the safe side, I would strongly suggest you take your coach to any RV dealer and have a time-pressure drop test done. It can be done in .5 hours or less so the charge will be minimal. The manometer to perform this test costs about $85 so you may choose to purchase the gauge and do it yourself.
I'm curious that now you have the LP system functional, things may work correctly. Try to light the stove every day and see what gives.
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07-09-2011, 12:48 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgreen45
Since no propane is in use under normal circumstances, I suspect leak down is the primary issue. When firing up an LP appliance after an extended shutdown, it can take several minutes to refill the lines with LP. Just to be on the safe side, I would strongly suggest you take your coach to any RV dealer and have a time-pressure drop test done. It can be done in .5 hours or less so the charge will be minimal. The manometer to perform this test costs about $85 so you may choose to purchase the gauge and do it yourself.
I'm curious that now you have the LP system functional, things may work correctly. Try to light the stove every day and see what gives.
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thanks but we had to go through turning the refer on to lp each time we used it last week(ALMOST EVERY DAY)
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07-09-2011, 05:18 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Bradenton, Fl.
Posts: 210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beaverfever
thanks but we had to go through turning the refer on to lp each time we used it last week(ALMOST EVERY DAY) 
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Ok. Are you lighting it with the ignitor or a fire stick? Just curious.
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07-09-2011, 06:56 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgreen45
Ok. Are you lighting it with the ignitor or a fire stick? Just curious.
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ignitor. it throws a nice arc visible on the brightest day
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07-11-2011, 05:54 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Bradenton, Fl.
Posts: 210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beaverfever
ignitor. it throws a nice arc visible on the brightest day
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The next time you get ready to light it after a day or two of no use, use a grill lighter. Light it first, then put it by the burner. Turn the gas on and see if you notice the output of LP blowing the flame.
This is a really strange problem. It's stuff like this why we're so fond of Beavers
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