Community Forums

Dalr · 09-17-2019, 10:39 AM

I hav a Dometic NewDmension model NDR 1062. The unit is still working but is not getting as cold as it once did. The freezer part is still freezing but not as fast. I only have run it on electric setting.
I assume that because it is still working that the funtion of the unit is ok and that there is something restricting something somewhere. could there be an air flow problem in the cooling coils and if so how would I get to them.
Thanks for your help.

Old-Biscuit · 09-17-2019, 11:25 AM

Is this fridge in a SLIDEOUT?
If YES......should be a external fan that is controlled by a t-stat attached to condenser fin (top of firdge via upper sidewall vent)
Bad t-stat/Bad Fan.....lack of adequate airflow

Thermistor....
Temp probe on cooling fin in food compartment
Fridge Thermostat uses it to control cooling cycles

Unplug the thermistor leads and let fridge run for 12 hrs
W/O thermistor sensing fin temp in food compartment the fridge thermostat will run 'heat' source continually. If cooling unit/controls function the freezer and food compartment will get very cold (0*F/freezer---34*F/food compartment OR Colder)
Thermistor leads plug into lower circuit board at the P2 connection (left side 2 pin connector)

MSHappyCampers · 09-17-2019, 06:33 PM

Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

Old Biscuit gives good information! Have fun and keep her between the ditches!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!

jzaldivar · 09-17-2019, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Is this fridge in a SLIDEOUT?
If YES......should be a external fan that is controlled by a t-stat attached to condenser fin (top of firdge via upper sidewall vent)
Bad t-stat/Bad Fan.....lack of adequate airflow

Thermistor....
Temp probe on cooling fin in food compartment
Fridge Thermostat uses it to control cooling cycles

Unplug the thermistor leads and let fridge run for 12 hrs
W/O thermistor sensing fin temp in food compartment the fridge thermostat will run 'heat' source continually. If cooling unit/controls function the freezer and food compartment will get very cold (0*F/freezer---34*F/food compartment OR Colder)
Thermistor leads plug into lower circuit board at the P2 connection (left side 2 pin connector)

x3.

Dalr · 09-21-2019, 07:08 AM

Thank you for the help. I know nothing about refrig units in RVs. The cooling fins are iced over so I will have to defrost the unit first. I dont know why they are I thought this was a frost free unit, maybe part of the problem.
The unit is not in a slide. I have no idea where I would find a circuit board.
Are there any diagrams available for this unit? Exploded pics?
Kind of lost here.

Old-Biscuit · 09-21-2019, 10:24 AM

NO your frdige is NOT frost free....nor does it defrost on it's own

Ice of FINS in food compartment....needs to be defrosted
Have to turn fridge off
ICE is an insulator so it can interfere with the temp probe being able to sense the temp of the fin it is attached to by a plastic clip.

Temp probe (THERMISTOR) senses the temp of the fin and the fridge thermostat uses that to control the cooling cycles (heat source on/off)

SO turn fridge off and get the ice melted.....water should drip into drain tray and then flow out via drain hose to backside of fridge and then out lower vent/access cover

Inside that vent/access cover is where you will find the burner area, electric element, DC terminal block, Lower circuit board (power module) etc

See pg 3 for components/location
https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/...or_Dometic.pdf

Once you get the ICE melted and the FINS clear....turn fridge back on
It probably will work w/o having to do anything else.
ICE build up is most likely causing fridge thermostat to short cycle cooling and therefore food compartment was not getting as cold as it should.

IF still having problems.........
Then unplugging thermistor leads from that lower circuit board might be needed to test ability to cool.

Dalr · 09-27-2019, 01:26 PM

Defrosted and had the same issue, unpluged P2 and ran for 12 hours and works great.
What is the next step? Do I order a new board or is there another route. I could not find manuals for this unit at the link.
Any idea of where to order a new board if thts what I need?

How long can I run the unit without pluging in the P2 connection?

Thank you again for all the help.

Dalr · 09-27-2019, 01:39 PM

opps
Found the manual

Old-Biscuit · 09-27-2019, 03:13 PM

Thermistor unplugged and cools properly..bad thermistor

OEM thermistor leads run from inside food compartment to outside/backside of firdge to circuit board.
Replacing with OEM is PITA cause of having to run the leads

Snip-The-Tip replacement is the cure.
Cut old/bad thermistor leads and wire to the New Replacement Rheostat that you install on wall in food compartment
Better then OEM

https://www.snip-the-tip.com/cgi-bin/articca.cgi