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Old 07-12-2005, 08:03 AM   #1
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I know I have seen a post before, but cant find it about sliding the temp probe up or down on the cooling fins inside the frig. Can someone tell me,Up or Down to lower the temp (get colder)
Thanx in advance
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Old 07-12-2005, 08:03 AM   #2
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I know I have seen a post before, but cant find it about sliding the temp probe up or down on the cooling fins inside the frig. Can someone tell me,Up or Down to lower the temp (get colder)
Thanx in advance
criscriscola@aol.com

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Old 07-12-2005, 09:27 AM   #3
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Here's what I found using the Search feature:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">To all interested: I received this reply from Dometic customer support:

Subject: Dometic refrigerator


I have a RV with a Dometic model RM2652 refrigerator. The frig has no manual controls to regulate the temperature, the temperature inside seems to be higher than it should be (55-65 F) when the ambient temperature is above 80 F. Is there any way to adjust the temperature or add a manual adjustment to this model?

(Reply)

The only way to adjust temperature is to adjust the thermistor. The thermistor is a white clip on the inside of the refrigerator, on the cooling fins. I would move this clip all the way to the bottom of the fins and make sure the yellow sensor tip in the clip is tucked in the clip and sticking all the way out. You want to see a little yellow but not the whole thing. Let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks,

Dometic Customer Support </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Hope this helps.

Rusty
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Old 07-13-2005, 05:08 AM   #4
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By sliding the thermistor up and down makes 10-12 degree change in my refrigerator.

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Old 07-13-2005, 11:02 AM   #5
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Wizard
A little help please, I posted this on this forum and the IRV2 forum and got 2 totally different answers. If I want to lower the temp (Get Colder) do I slide the Thermistor or (what ever its called) up or down on the cooling fins inside the frig.
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Old 07-13-2005, 08:02 PM   #6
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I have been having problems with my Domantic too. When it gets to 115 degrees outside I can only use the refrigerator on AC not propane.

I took that thermister thing cliped it to the plastic and cliped that to the fins. I moved it so the thermister is as far down as it will go. Tomorrow I will observe the temperature inside the refrigerator.

To help with the heat exchange I have placed a "mister" on the refrigerator coils in back with a towel and set it on very low spray. Also I mounted a fan in the side vent cover that is aimed directly at the refrigerator coils. These measures have put me into the low 40's, even with the 115 degree ambient temp. I picked up a package of inline "drippers" that drip a half gallon/hour. One of these may take the place of the mister and lead to less water dripping down to the floor of the back of the refrigerator compartment.

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Old 07-14-2005, 07:17 PM   #7
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Zetron, Without hijacking this thread I will comment on your problem because criscriscola has already received the correct answer. Usually these refrigerators function better on LPG than 120VAC. Your fan will obtain better results mounted above the refrigerator to expel hot air through the roof vent; the entire air intake grill is then utilized more efficiently. Opening the frig door often will cause cooling problems in hot weather because these small units are not engineered the same as household refrigerators; the recovery time(cooling rate) is much longer. A small fan made to place inside the refrigerator helps a lot in hot weather, it circulates the air and assists the cooling fins to transmit cooler temperatures from the evaporator. We have stayed a week in Vegas during August without refrigerator cooling problems using these tips.
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Old 07-14-2005, 11:55 PM   #8
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Sliding the thermistor down should make the unit get colder before cycling off. Please concider the others suggestions of airflow up the back and a very small fan for the inside to help the cooling effect. Good luck and let us know how things turn out.
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Old 07-15-2005, 07:01 AM   #9
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Ray and RV Wizard: The temp is now down to 40.8 degrees inside the refrigerator. AS I said the small fan is pushing air at the refrigerator coils and on the coils is a piece of terry cloth towel with a spray mister at the op on very low setting. Also I am out of the 115 degree temperatures, am now at 20 degrees lower ambient temp.

I had two of those very small fans they sell for these refrigerators one at the bottom and one at the top of the refrigerator back compartment; they never seemed to do anything. The arrangement I have now works. All I need do now is regulate the water flow on the coils down to a low enough rate that it doesn't drip off the coils into the compartment too much.

One thing to consider about using evap cooling on these coils is that it will not work when the ambient relative humidity is high.

David/zetron

I also have two sets of CPU cooler fans (0.1 amp/set) inside the refrigerator blowing on the fins.
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Old 07-16-2005, 07:58 PM   #10
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Zetron, Hopefully this link has some help for your problem: rvmobile
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Old 07-17-2005, 05:50 AM   #11
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Thanks Ray,

With the arrangement I have now: fan and dripper, I feel the refrigerator is working within the temperature range I want.

I hope I will only have to use this arrangement during the very hot weather.

David/zetron
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Old 08-17-2005, 01:45 PM   #12
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For what its worth, and, I'm not saying that anyone is right or wrong but:

On my Dometic frig I tried the white clip both all the way up the fin and all the way down the fin while monitoring the temp with a thermometer. I left the frig for 24 hrs after each adjustment.

When the slide was all the way up on the fin the temp was 35 degrees in the frig. When it was all the way at the bottom of the fin the temp was 41 degrees in the frig.

I don't know why mine is different from what Dometic claims but it is. Just food for thought, if it was me I'd invest in a thermometer so you can decide for yourself which way makes it colder in your frig.

I did this test with the frig empty and the door was not opened for 24 hrs between checks and I did it more than once to make sure of the results I was getting. FYI!
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Old 08-20-2005, 06:48 PM   #13
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My refrigerator is now cooling enough. I cleaned the propane noozle and reasembled it but no propane coming through the noozle.

Next: no propane going anywhere; none at the range, none at the water heater.

I changed bottles, still no propane. I took the end off the outlet side of the propane regulator. OUT CAME OIL! I blew the oil out of the regulator put everything back together and the refrigerator now works well on propane again

Somewhere I was given a load of bad propane.

David/zetron
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Old 08-12-2006, 04:24 PM   #14
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I guess sooner or later everyone will know what a thermistor is. I haven't had a problem until recently, and after reading a bunch of opinions I moved the thermistor bracket up, then down, and then removed it.
All the while, the thermistor was dangling below the coils and wasn't even seated in the bracket.
I don't know why I haven't had any trouble until now, but all of a sudden my freezer freezes well and the refrigerator is at 60 degrees. It has been like that for several days.
The first thing I did was check the door seals, which I cleaned. That didn't help. I defrosted it last night and this morning I pulled it from the cabinet and cleaned the burner, the flue and then cleaned the dust from the coils of the cooling unit, all per the Dometic manual.
I have a Dometic RM3663 btw, with a Dinosaur P711 board and a new cooling unit. Both the board and the cooling unit were installed about a year ago and I have religiously kept it leveled since then.
Dometic doesn't mention the thermistor in the manual anywhere, but I just positioned it in the bracket and slid it onto one of the fins.
Hopefully that will solve the problem.
I sent an email to Dinosaur about the problem but won't get an answer for a couple of days. Does anyone have any other suggestions as to what I can do to solve this problem?

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