Refrigerator interior light stays on

[Ron1247]

Did a search without luck. Replaced bulb after 7+ yrs. now the new bulb stays on. Is it worth trying to remove part and cleaning contacts? Should I just plan on getting a new part? Anyone already solved this problem?

Thanks, hope all had a great Thanksgiving.

[RV Wizard]

Ron, not knowing the make and model of refrigerator you have I would have to say that you might as well replace the light switch. You might be able to remoce it take it apart and repair it or you might not. Good luck.

[Ron1247]

Dometic
Thanks for the quick response. The unit is a Dometic New Dimensions, will look into ordering a part. Any problem with removing part now, as long as I tape ends of wires and waiting for new part? Can't think of any way the new buld could cause the problem. Any reason to try another bulb before ordering part?

[RV Wizard]

The bulb is not the problem. Sounds like the points in the switch have welded themselves together. You can either remove the bulb or the switch and taping up the ends of the wires to prevent them from shorting out. Good luck.

[Ron1247]

Mike, I cleaned the contacts, with no luck. Got a new switch and bulb still stays on. Switch has two contacts to attach wires. Only one wire to attach, tried on both, bulb still stays on. What would be plan B?

[Paul Heuvelhorst]

Ron,
There is a second wire you haven't found. You noted there are 2 contacts on the switch, but only one wire. In order to make/break the electrical connection, you have to attach the second wire to the other terminal. It probably was a little loose to begin with and when you removed the switch, the wire fell inside the mounting hole. You need both wires in order to complete the circuit, so you'll need to do some "fishing" to find the missing wire.

You may be able to find it by inspecting the back side of the refrigerator. Good Luck!

[Ron1247]

Sounds right, but this is what I have.
Three wires out the side of fridge. One gray connected to farest to the rear. One black connected right behind switch and one red connected to switch (top). Bottom contact on switch appears to make contact with the contact that has the black wire connected to it. That leave two contact on the side of fridge between gray and black wires that are bare and appear they should remain bare. I would think that the bottom contact on the switch should work since it makes contact with the black wire that is connected to the contact on the side. I have not been able to find a diag. on the net and don't have a plan B, unless I call the Co. Tues. the chance of the new switch not being good should be almost nil.

[Ron1247]

The unit is NDR1062 (New Dimensions)
Product # 921 14 60 82
Light is on the front right side, not on the rear.

[RV Wizard]

Trust us there is another wire that will need to go to the switch. It sounds like the missing wire is coming from the socket of the light and is now touching either the needed ground in the wall or a hot wire connection. I will try to look up the schematic if I get time today and get back to you.

[Ron1247]

Don't see how a wire could have got out of sight into the wall of fridge. Red wire attached to switch, with other connector off of switch in contact with the connector with the black wire attached, instead of pushed on the switch but still contact is being made to both connections on switch.
Have not been able to find schematic on net, would have been great if someone with the New Dimension could have removed the lamp cover and listed the connections.
Just appears that by the contact on the back of the switch touching the connection with the black wire on the side of fridge they were able to not have another black wire that pushed on the back of switch.
Not sure the proper name for the bulb, 1 1/2" long, with contact points on both ends, about as wide as a "reg. pen" All I did was replace a bulb, now this, just don't see how another wire could have got pushed into hole on side of fridge. For that matter, don't understand why there are two unused contacts on the side between gray wire and switch.
Thanks!

[Ron1247]

OK, switch is now working, removed black wire and taped end.
Both contacts on rear of switch were hot. Red wire still attached to top contact on switch. Black wire from side of fridge that was connected behind switch and touched bottom contact of switch when switch was installed was hot but now disconnected. Gray wire is ground.

Gray and Red being used, Black taped off. 1. Don't understand why 2. Don't know if there is another problem I'm not aware of

Light switch is working, so enough unless someone brings a problem to my attention.
Thanks for your help!

[camper1b]

I had the same problem on mine. It turned out to be a "feature"! There are two switches on the outside of the refridgerator that are labeled "low ambient temp" and "high humidity conditions" or some such thing. When of those switches is on, the fridge light stays on. Something about keeping the inside of the fridge a little warmer or less humid. Whatever. Hoope this helps.

[Ron1247]

Rich, thanks that did it. I removed tape, all is working. Of the two exterior switches just above the freezer it is the one in front that caused the problem. For all I know, the old switch might have been good. No big deal, just glad to be done with it. Thanks all

[Ray,IN]

My old frig(1992 Dometic) had a high humidity setting and a normal setting. The high humidity setting powered a 12V heater around the door gasket to reduce/eliminate condensation. Hope this helps things.