refrigerator won't work

[rotto]

I have a norcold model N84X-IM and when i try to turn it on in AC or LP i get a code of "NO CO" the books say to check for level and i even check it in the refrigerator. it is level. then it says to check to be sure vent is clear and it is. then to have it check by a dealer.

[Fred and Bonnie]

It sounds like your unit has gone into the "Lock Out" mode. I have the owners manual for the 12XX series 4door model, however I am not sure your electronics are the same.

I am sure others will have info speciifcally for your unit.

If you like, email me and I will return the manual in pdf form.

Fred

[RV Wizard]

Rotto, welcome to iRV2.com. We are glad to have you join us here and we look forward to reading of your adventures and experiences. I am sure you will enjoy the website and forums.
If you private message me with an email address I can send you the service manual for your unit. You ARE going to have to use it to diagnose and repair the refrigerator but it is a large pdf file.
Good luck and keep us posted.

[Robs]

The causes of your error code of "NO CO"

1. Poor ventilation.
2. Off-level operation.
3. Dirty burner.
4. Low AC voltage.....Not less than 100 volts or more than 130 volts
5. Cooling fan inoperative.
6. Improper installation.

7. Incorrect orifice.

[owenspao]

We have a 1997 Monaco and a New deminsion fridge and we have turned it on for the first time. It is not level at the moment but wonder if anyone is aware of a manual or a problem we have not thought of?

Thanks

[GaryKD]

Hi owenspao,
Welcome to iRV2. If the coach is not level, turn off the fridge. Get the coach level and turn the fridge on. Leaving it out of level (especially when it is on an initial cool down) may ruin the fridge very quickly.

I'm not sure of the question you are asking about when you say "a problem we have not thought of". Can you ask the question another way?

[owenspao]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaryKD Hi owenspao, Welcome to iRV2. If the coach is not level, turn off the fridge. Get the coach level and turn the fridge on. Leaving it out of level (especially when it is on an initial cool down) may ruin the fridge very quickly. I'm not sure of the question you are asking about when you say "a problem we have not thought of". Can you ask the question another way?

I did find out leaving it on will damage it, so we turned it off. Time will tell if there is any damage. My husband is gone in the RV at present and I have not talked to him about it.

Stay tuned.

[rotto]

well i went out this weekend and tore into the frig. thanks to Fred and Mike for the manuals. the manual from Mike for my model didnot address the "NO CO" code but with themanual from Fred and a little reading between the lines my brother-in-law and i was able to get it going. the key was the open pin next to the white and vilot wire. it wasn't pin 15 on mine but what i called as pin 3.
thanks again for all the help.

Rich, Mary & Kelly (the lab)
2004 Winnebago Brave

[BubbaJePH]

I followed the instructions from the link,
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncoldnnewnseries.pdf

All I did was blow the 5 amp fuse when I grounded the open pin. Which for me was not pin 15. Guess I will try again when I buy more 5 amp fuses. I am getting the five flashes with the green power LED. I guess it is 5 since there is no error code blinking 6.

[BubbaJePH]

I've replaced the 5 amp fuse. Checked the AC slow blow fuse and it is good. I tried the reset, following the instructions. Could not get the system to reset. I do not have an open pin 15. The open one is 3rd from the right. I found out if I cut off the AC power to the n61 Norcold the propane comes on, lights and starts cooling. The interior light comes on too. When I flip the AC circuit breaker on, the gas cuts off. The light goes out inside the fridge and cooling stops. My fridge is in a 2007 Itasca Sunstar that I purchased 5/2009. I'm back to reading the trouble shooting manual. Any help?

[RV Wizard]

Disconnect the 120vac heating element(s) and retry operation in the electric mode. If the fuse does not blow you have a shorted heating element. If you have tried operation in gas mode or disconnected the shore power cord and it operates but does not when coach is plugged in, you may have dirty DC from the converter/charger. Try operatin the refrigerator on an extension cord and the coach not plugged into power. Let us know what you find.

[BubbaJePH]

Thanks for the quick reply to my Norcold problem. I'm checking the things you suggested. Will report later today. The internal fridge light is on. I have the AC power connected to a shore line. I'm waiting to check if it is cooling. Isolated from the RV AC power. I bought the RV new 5/2009. As I said it is a 2007 model and has sat on the lot of camping world in Churchville NY till my purchase. The tale of my Norcold has developed to the present problem.

[BubbaJePH]

My problems with the Norcold fridge started out in May with our first couple of trips. When I turned on the fridge on shore power and set to AUTO, there was a clicking sound at the back of the fridge. It sounded like an automotive turn signal clicking. I shut everything off. Isolated any power to the RV. No 110v AC or 12v DC. I removed all the connectors to the back of the fridge and cleaned all the spade clips. Saw some oxidation as expected with aluminum components. I reattached the wires and the fridge worked. The clicking stopped. I've had to do this procedure several times. Sometimes while RVing always at RV parks plugged in to shore power the clicking continued but the fridge still functioned. I keep my RV plugged in at the house all the time. Last week, I accidently disconnected the RV shore power. The fridge was on. I did not have the gas turned on. The next morning I noticed my error. I plugged in the RV and noticed the error code with 5 flashed on the green LED. Nothing removed it. I then did the trouble shooting method to reset the brain with the shorted cable. Followed the instruction to the letter. I never heard the click of reset. I found out that the propane will fire on in auto and gas mode IF the 110v breaker to the fridge is flipped off and no 110v AC power is going to the fridge. When I flip the breaker on, it shuts off the fridge on propane and stops cooling. I have the fridge plugged in to a separate shore line, through the side vent door of the fridge. The breaker is off inside the RV at the main panel. The fridge is cooling on 110v AC power from the separate shore power. Still connected to the separate 110v shore line and I flip the breaker to the fridge inside the RV the fridge cuts off. Now I've added another bag of worms.... Do I have a fried converter?

[RV Wizard]

It does sound like you have dirty DC effecting the electronics on the control board. Try this: Disconnect the 12 vdc circuit from the coach at the terminal block or control board of the refrigerator. Using a pair of 12 gage wire connect the refrigerator control board to a free standing 12 volt battery. Turn on the 120 vac feeding the refrigerator and the refrigerator itself. Does it cool? If so you probably have a converter/charger malfunction. Sometimes, you can read dirty DC with a multimeter on the AC volt scale and check the battery voltage. Let us know what you find out.