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Old 09-11-2019, 04:30 PM   #1
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Removing a Dometic RM1350 4 door refrigerator from a slide for maintenance

We had to remove ours because the drain hose disintegrated , the fan expired and the drain leak damaged the wood like material of the slide.

It is easier than it looks. Remove two screws through the rear floor pan of the fridge. (black circles.) Shut off gas, electric and water to the fridge. Remove the gas feed (red) and the water feed (yellow). You might want to drain the water system first. Pull the plug (or plugs) making sure you know where they go back. Take a picture of the three wires going to the terminal in the rear then disconnect. Tape over everything to be safe.

There id putty or caulk holding the rear base down. Be careful of the black fabric while getting a thin putty knife under it to loosen it.
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Old 09-11-2019, 04:39 PM   #2
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Next go inside and look for the 4 screws inside. In the first photo you see the upper screw. Yes, National boogered up the paint putting it in. There is another at the bottom sort of inside the hinge bracket. Same on the other side. These are sheet rock screws. That is all that holds it in!

Now your strong armed helper will tip it back toward the inside while you work on that putty on the outside bottom. Be careful and nothing will get damaged. At the suggestion of the DW We piled timber on top of a creeper and slid it back onto it. I'd skip the creeper next time. Be careful that you do not damage the wood in the slide getting it in. Note the drain fitting below the drip tray on the right.
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Old 09-11-2019, 04:55 PM   #3
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The beast is out! Fig1
In the second picture we simply pulled off the remains of the old tube and slid on the new. A zip tie was added but it will need some caulk also. I pulled it away from the hot stack and zipped it to the frame I then bent it up slightly to form a slight P trap and then down again. I added a new end cap which is crucial for the best performance as it prevents warm air from being sucked up into the box. The end must be stuck out through the lower hatch. Lots of damage can happen otherwise from delamination to disintegrating flake board inside.

Here is some Dometic philosophy. The Dometic gas/electric fridge has just enough cooling power to do it's job on a hot day. One cracked drain, gap in the insulation, unstuck section of tape or installation goof up will make it not work well. Pay attention to yours while it is out. Mine had a lot of places where the silvery tape came off. Air was leaking in and out. Insulation was badly installed and shoved aside. All this needs attention if you want the Ice cream hard. Replace the silvery tape after an alcohol cleaning off. Get the shop manual and do the maintenance that is expected annually. Burners, stacks ect all need cleaning. You will be happier if you do. Yes some pics are sideways. There is no way to predict when this will happen.
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Old 09-11-2019, 05:05 PM   #4
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Here is the new fan assembly. You can see the original fan in the second photo. It quit. I need to test the wiring and see why it did but I will probably just wire these to the 12v power so they work whenever it is on. We tend to be in Death Valley in August when it hits 120f with no shade. These fans are a big help. I'll rubber mount them and we won't even hear them.

This is where I have to go for some materials and eat dinner so I will continue with this after I repair the slide out wood to cover the reinstall and the fan install. Please add anything you know about this process. Suggestions are appreciated.
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Old 09-11-2019, 09:29 PM   #5
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OEM Fan should have been TWO


Center-mid level is good place for fans as it PULLS air in via lower vent cover and up thru the absorber tubes then PUSHES air up and across Condenser Fins before going out top vent'


OEM Fan is controlled by that T-Stat attached to condenser fin.
12VDC Pos comes from the DC Terminal Block -----In-Line 3A/4A Fuse...then to Relay. From Relay 12VDC Pos goes to t-stat and then to fan (red wires)
OEM t-stat Closes at 140*F and Opens at 115*F






T-stat temps are TOO high.........other temp range t-stats are available
Airflow across Condenser Fins is CRITICAL to cooling the hot ammonia vapor into a cool liquid ammonia.....more ammonia vapor condensed the more heat absorption can take place....IE: Better cooling affect overall
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Old 09-12-2019, 08:31 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
OEM Fan should have been TWO


Center-mid level is good place for fans as it PULLS air in via lower vent cover and up thru the absorber tubes then PUSHES air up and across Condenser Fins before going out top vent'


OEM Fan is controlled by that T-Stat attached to condenser fin.
12VDC Pos comes from the DC Terminal Block -----In-Line 3A/4A Fuse...then to Relay. From Relay 12VDC Pos goes to t-stat and then to fan (red wires)
OEM t-stat Closes at 140*F and Opens at 115*F






T-stat temps are TOO high.........other temp range t-stats are available
Airflow across Condenser Fins is CRITICAL to cooling the hot ammonia vapor into a cool liquid ammonia.....more ammonia vapor condensed the more heat absorption can take place....IE: Better cooling affect overall
Thanks for that. I have that service manual that you sent the link to and it is a help.

Are you saying that they should be in the same general location as the original one or can I have them a little higher where I can reach them if needed.

How about this one
https://www.amazon.com/Emerson-3F05-...0&sr=8-1-fkmr3


Would it hurt performance to simply let them run when the fridge is on? I have lots of battery power.
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Old 09-13-2019, 08:01 AM   #7
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There is a nice dent in the boiler tube. Pretty sure it does not affect performance so nothing to do there. I checked for continuity on the Thermofuse on the boiler below the heating element. It was good. I checked the resistance on the heater element which was correct. I removed the baffle from the flue and cleaned the flue. I did not buy the tool but instead used a shotgun barrel cleaner with a "3M red Scrubbie" attached. The baffle was partially melted so I ordered a new one.

The manual describes taling the places on the fridge where air could get in and I found that a number of seams had gaps where the ambient air could get in. They had not been taped. I cleaned with alcohol and taped with silver tape.
According to the manual there should be a curved baffle installed above the coils to direct the heat outward. The baffle is present and nicely made but, since the upper vent door is slightly lower than the fridge to the baffle curved downward from the fridge top. I hope that the extra fans will make enough flow.
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Old 09-18-2019, 04:58 PM   #8
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I added a 2" rigid sheet of fiberglass in the space above the fridge. I installed the new fans onto the back of the fridge and connected them to the thermostat. I have ordered a lower temp thermostat and will install it later. Installing the fridge was the exact opposite if removal. The new computer fans are much quieter than the original. I do not know the correct way to adjust the flame but since I put in the new flue baffle and cleaned the flue it is now blue with no yellow patches. I will still remove and soak the orifice in alcohol an instructed. After installing it I see that there was a one inch gap between the top of the fridge and the sheet metal piece meant to direst the hot air outside. This seems to be letting the heat up above the freezer and partly defeating the insulation. I will stuff some foam up into this gap.


I left it on last night but left the A/C off. This morning with overnight temps of 85f I had 36f on the display and I measured the freezer temp at 0f on the floor and .8f in the center. That will keep Ben & Jerrie's hard if left on the floor of the freezer. By 2:00 and still without A/C with the outside temp at 90f and inside over 100f the fridge compartment was up to 40 and the freezer bottom was still around 1f and the center 6f. I think that is about the best I have ever seen a Dometic work. I believe that once the hot air from behind the fridge is kept from getting into the space above It should be great. When in actual use the RV will be cooled inside but door openings will take their toll. I think it should be fine.
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Old 09-18-2019, 09:12 PM   #9
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Good overall job!


That 'dent'........just a dent in the sheet metal that surrounds the perk tube.
Cosmetic only.


Shotgun is the perfect 'tool' for swabbing that flue tube
And YES that baffle was SHOT.


That top baffle WILL direct the hot air out....especially once that GAP is closed up


Good Job!
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Old Yesterday, 07:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Good overall job!


That 'dent'........just a dent in the sheet metal that surrounds the perk tube.
Cosmetic only.


Shotgun is the perfect 'tool' for swabbing that flue tube
And YES that baffle was SHOT.


That top baffle WILL direct the hot air out....especially once that GAP is closed up


Good Job!
Thank you!
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