Replacement for Shurflo 5.7 gpm Pump

[prsmith]

I have a leak in the seam between the motor and the head of my Shurflo Smart Sensor Extreme Series 5.7 gpm pump manufactured 05-02 model 5900-0201

Shurflo tells me that there are no repair parts available for this model pump build before early 2006 due to Honeywell no longer manufacturing the required parts

I see that there is a model 5900 - 0211 available

Is anyone using this later model and is it having leak problems?

Has anyone used another manufacturer's pump (other than Shurflo) that will give me the same capacity but be more serviceable?

Thanks,
Preston

[bdaball]

I just replaced my Aquatec 55-Aqua Jet ARV 5.3gpm with the same thing.
Try Aquatec Water Systems 942-225-2200 or google "Aquajet Rv Water Pump". In my case it was an exact fit replacement.

[lpasekof]

I replaced mine with the same model about 2 weeks ago. Froze in Albuquerque. Couldn't find parts to repair but I was able to find the same model number at an RV supply company. Expensive - $259, but VERY easy and fast to replace. For me, the pump performs well and I'll now try to find replacement parts for my old one. My old one is a 2003 so I'm concerned about your comment of no parts available.

[Gary CA]

PRSmith,
I thought my ShurFlow 5.7 was leaking inside causing the pump to run when all the faucets in the system were OFF. I bought a new 5.7 thru Amazon for $164. After replacing the pump the symptom was still present, a low hum in the water pump. After attaching a section of hose to simulate the OUT Line, from the pump, I crimped the test hose and the pump turned OFF. I did not need the new pump and still have the problem.

After calling Winnie Tech I was told to check-out the fill valve. Do a topic search on the Fill Valve and several have had the same problem. You may not need a new pump. Keep us posted and good luck.

[lpasekof]

Gary
Did the search as you mentioned on Fill Valve. Got 5 pages of hits. I have the same issue with low hum after replacing the pump last month. Also have the issue of lots of noise that I didn't have before replacing. Going to look at the line loops to try to resolve that. But, could you be more specific on the Fill Valve issue?

[Gary CA]

I am going to disassemble the water bay panel tomorrow and will provide feedback. I'm hoping for a quick fix. Will keep you posted.

[Dav5942]

Yup, same problem with the later model 5.7s. Purchased a new pump and have a replacement coming under warranty(hopefully).

Also did a search trying to find another manufacturer of a high gpm pump-no luck!

[lwasouth]

It is the Honeywell microprocesser that goes bad. Surflo told me that they no longer have the part and that they were defective to begin with. Called Honeywell and was told that they designed a new microprocesser and that it is very reliable, but sureflo would not buy them. Through a contact managed to get one - problem solved, works perfectly. The part is actually not available unless you buy about 3 dozen of them from honeywell

[SCVJeff]

Quote:

Originally Posted by lpasekof Gary Did the search as you mentioned on Fill Valve. Got 5 pages of hits. I have the same issue with low hum after replacing the pump last month. Also have the issue of lots of noise that I didn't have before replacing. Going to look at the line loops to try to resolve that. But, could you be more specific on the Fill Valve issue?

I just replaced mine in Quartzsite, and it was considerably noisier than the OEM. I bought a 25' 1/2" water hose on sale at CW and replaced the 2 I/O hoses with these at a min of 2', each side a full loop. I also covered them with 1/2" insulation and the seams that can be sealed to further damp vibration. Problem NOW is that I almost cannot even hear it run.

[Al, Michigan]

I re-placed my water pump with the new sure-frlo. It is the noisiest pump I ever heard. Went to a Sure-flo dealer in Apache Junction, Az. He listened and thought it was just fine. I called the Company a year or so ago, but they assured me it was ma quiet pump.

Al, Michigan.

[SCVJeff]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCVJeff I just replaced mine in Quartzsite, and it was considerably noisier than the OEM. I bought a 25' 1/2" water hose on sale at CW and replaced the 2 I/O hoses with these at a min of 2', each side a full loop. I also covered them with 1/2" insulation and the seams that can be sealed to further damp vibration. Problem NOW is that I almost cannot even hear it run.

That wasn't clear.. Rather than buying the SureFlo hoses, I bought the 25' and cut it to the pieces I needed. Ahhhhh.... quietness

[WeThePeople]

Quote:

Originally Posted by lwasouth It is the Honeywell microprocesser that goes bad.

Could you share the full Honeywell
part number with all of us please ?

Thanks,
Paul

[lwasouth]

The pump is a pre 06. The micro-processer that I was able to replace is not in the potted board. It comes out of the housing with the removal of 2 screws. It is about 1/2" square. The part as I received it, has no part number. From what I was told, one was never assigned

[WeThePeople]

Quote:

Originally Posted by lwasouth The pump is a pre 06. It comes out of the housing with the removal of 2 screws.

TY for your response,
my date code is 11/07,
so I still have the adjustable sensor,
but a fully potted board instead...

I wonder if they discontinued use of that
honeywell IC in this vintage (5900-0201 OEM).





To others with the slow growl/chatter/hum issue.

I experienced the same problem after a few days of slow-run.

Here is what I have come to know on this unit.



By the time you see water leaking from it,
you've filled most of your motor up, heheh.

This causes excessive current in the motor at the rear
due to the open rotor brush frame design it uses inside.

The current limiting aspect of the electronics then tapers off the width of the pulses sent to the motor, as this is a PWM (Pulse-Width Modulated) servo controller by design.

So first you will notice it start to go slower over a short period of time,
then it will appear to not want to shut off due to the water from
the backside of the diaphram swash-plate modulating the sensor.

I determined this by removing the shutoff adjusting screw,
and utilized a long thin jeweler's screwdriver through that hole
to assist the diaphram to not "Modulate" so harshly.



The sensor contains two aspects,
a snap-action switch with firm cutoff,
and a variable pressure transducer for microprocessor feedback.

Those that are used to this pump can hear it spin up to almost full pressure, turn off a moment, then turn on at successively reducing speeds until the "Click" of the high limit switch can be heard.

The breached diaphram prevents the snap-action switch from auctating properly.

So when the microprocessor gets the the slowest speed to "top-off" the pressure for the hard limit switch, it is such a narrow pulse width that the water gets most of it, and the motor doesn't spin...

The leaking modulated pressure from the backside of the swash-plate messes with this due to a very small flow-limiting hole feeding this sensor to slow down the sudden-off syndrome when using this pump on a very small water circuit without expansion room to turn off gracefully, but it is just the right size to cause resonance at almost full pressure when combined with the back pressure squirting back through the breached diaphram from the swash-plate area.



Took me darn near five minutes to figure that one out...



Eventually, it just won't turn back on at all due to the excessive current required for startup, combined with the water shorting it out too.

Take one of the screws out that holds on the base and electronics,
make it the one farthest from the pump at the motor's end.

Tip it up at the pump end making the motor lower,
and whack the motor end into your palm.

The motor will start right up and spew a ton of water fast,
I had it in a full deep pan and still got soaked.

Don't wear your favorite suit...



Once that end is drained, put that screw back in,
and remove the other one near the pump end.

Then keep the motor end higher than the pump,
and of course in a sizable pan until you replace/repair it.

The leak will be small, as there is a shaft seal it must traverse first,
but at least you can take a shower, flush, and wash dishes meantime.

The water will breach into the motor through the shaft seal, leak out the bolt hole, but run just fine.

I chose to just x-acto the offending diaphram out,
and seal the in/out to that one chamber with silicone sealant.

It runs just fine on the remaining four chambers for me,
but I admit, it is a bit of a hack-job for the moment...



With a brand new pump running just over $150,
and the two repair parts about $112 ($47 + $65),
I can't justify repair at this point though.

I hope this helps others,
Paul