Replacing electric element in water heater

[USMCRET]

Hi Folks,

I am going to be replacing the electric element in my Suburban 10 gal water heater. The burner orifice tube is in the way of being able to place a socket on the element. I can see two nuts that could be loosened to remove the orifice tube: one on the gas solenoid valve (cannot be seen in the below pic), and the other where the gas tube connects to the burner orifice. Which should I loosen, or does it matter? I have never messed with gas fittings before and don't want to screw something up.

["007"]

I do not see your electric element on face of your water heater. I do see your Anod rod below gas tube.
This PFD is for water heater, removing tube is not a problem the igniter and air adjustments should not be changed just remove the mounting screws for assembly.
Some water heaters have element in rear of water heater.

[mahon1993]

I think you are at the wrong end of the heater. The electric element should be on the back side inside the coach. You will see two 120 volt wires going to it. To remove it be sure to use the right size socket wrench and not a end wrench.
Greg

[USMCRET]

The black cover at 10 o'clock to the anode is where the element is located. I took this pic before the rubber cover was removed.

Thanks for the feedback, guys!

[DennisZ]

I had to replace the element on my old 5er, just remove the gas line from the flame tube, unbolt the flame tube and pull it out of the way, o big deal, just replace all the parts like they came out. You can get the proper socket to remove the element and even get a new element from either Home Depot sor Lowes, and most hardware stores, much cheaper than a RV supply house.

Good luck

Dennis

[bigskymt]

USMCRET: I just replaced mine on a 04 KSDP. Make sure you remove the anode rod and drain the water or when you remove the heater element it will leak inside the coach. After you remove the black cover over the element you can remove the wires then the element. Depot sells both the element and special tool. Your anode rod may be also due for replacement. Removing the gas line will allow more access.

[Rvgirl2669]

If you go to the suburban mfg web sit go to service and look up specific water heater model and will tell you exactly how to replace and also tell you the correct spacing on gap for the burner tube assy.

[paz]

Make sure the power to the electric heating element is OFF before you attach the wires to the new one. The element will only last about 30 sec with no water in the tank, and you'll end up replacing it again.

[smiller]

Quote:

Originally Posted by paz Make sure the power to the electric heating element is OFF before you attach the wires to the new one. The element will only last about 30 sec with no water in the tank, and you'll end up replacing it again.

If he doesn't make sure that power to the electric heating element is off before he attaches the wires I'd worry more about his own life than the element's...

[SUMDALUS]

FYI:

Suburban electric elements are located on the "front" of the water heater (outside the RV, behind the w/h cover door).

Atwood electric elements are located on the "rear" of the water heater (inside the RV, between the tank's inlet and outlet lines).

The OEM electric elements for both water heaters have a 1440 Watt and 12 Amp rating. [The typical hardware store screw-in electric element has a 1500 Watt and 12.5 Amp rating. (The 2000 Watt element draws 16.6 Amps)]

Both OEM electric elements require a 1 1/2" tool for removal. Usually a 3/4" drive socket or a specific element removal tool from local hardware store. A socket will be too large to access the Suburban element - the pan metal will be in the way. Both water heaters will present leverage access problems.

p.s. Only the Suburban water heater requires an Anode Rod - the Atwood does not.

Hope this helps.

[USMCRET]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SUMDALUS The OEM electric elements for both water heaters have a 1440 Watt and 12 Amp rating. [The typical hardware store screw-in electric element has a 1500 Watt and 12.5 Amp rating.

Thanks for mentioning that. I noted that the other day when I was in Home Depot. Will the wattage and amp rating differentials be an issue?

[Ray,IN]

I installed a 2,000W heater element. On a 50A RV it makes little difference, except when we on 30A service where we usually use propane anyway, and heats the water much faster. We only heat water when its needed, not continually. The threads are all the same, and the flimsy-looking "special wrench" really does work ($6).