Replacing Refrigerator

[Wink507]

We have a 1997 Rialta and the refrigerator doesn't work on Ac, DC or propane. Has anyone ever replaced with just arefrigerator with one not designed for RV that only runs on AC? any problems? suggestiosn?

[Wink507]

We have a 1997 Rialta and the refrigerator doesn't work on Ac, DC or propane. Has anyone ever replaced with just arefrigerator with one not designed for RV that only runs on AC? any problems? suggestiosn?

[GaryKD]

Hi Wink507,
Welcome to iRV2. You may have already thought of these items, but here are my cocerns:
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> Power - If the new unit needs 110V where will it come from?
<LI>Size - Is there a model you like and will fit.
<LI>Wear & Tear - Can it take the movement when traveling?[/list]

[TXiceman]

Have you tried to run the unit on "bypass" or wire the 110volt heater element directy to an outlet. You will have to leave it fro 24 hours and check the temp. If it cools the problem is probably the control board.

If you are not comfortable with hooking up the 110 volt power...better ask a friend to help.

Ken

[Wink507]

TXiceman, explain a little more.

[TXiceman]

There is a large vertical vessel in the back of the frig. This vessel is normally hot and is called the reboiler. There should be some wires running to the electric heater rod in the vessel. The wires should come out and connect to a control board.

Disconnect these from the control board. You can use a volt ohm meter (VOM) to check that the terminals have 120 volts to them when are plugged in and set for electric operation. If you have power there, it may bea heater problem.

Check the heater for continuity or for ground on either lead to the heater skid or just a ground in the frig compartment.

If the heater checks OK, not grounded and has some resistance between the two legs you need to hook it up direct to 120 volt cord (not plugged in yet. Once you have the heater connected to the 120 volt cord, plug it in and let it run like this for at least 12 hours. The frig and freezer should cool.

What you are doing is forcing it to operate 100% and no thermostat. This is taking the controls completely out of the loop.

If it will not run her ...you have a proble....burned our heater or a bad unit. If it operates and cools, the problem is probably the control board. If it is the board, get a replacment bord from Dinosuar...not the OEM borad.

If you have not much experience with electricity, better get some help and not hurt yourself or the RV.

Good luck, Ken

[Wink507]

Thank you for the info. By passed and went direct. Heater got warm and fins got cold but after 2 hours heater still warm but fins seem to have quit cooling. This is the same way it was operating before. Is it possible that the RV is not level enough?

[Lorna]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Wink507:
...Has anyone ever replaced with just a refrigerator with one not designed for RV that only runs on AC? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

We run an AC household (3.2 CF dorm size) refrigerator AND an AC household undercounter (4 cf) freezer. We have had no problems with traveling with them. You do need to allow "breathing space" on the sides of the units as that is where they now run the tubing. We know this because we pop-riveted loose-pin hinges to the sides (top & bottom) to secure the units to the cabinetry. We hit the refrigerant tubing on one of the units (meant we replaced it with another unit). We allowed a couple of inches of space around the units and we have the vented access cover and the roof vent for the old RV refrigerator. Many of the home bus conversions will have a household type refrigerator in them. Ours are wired to run off our generator while underway. I haven't heard of anyone having a problem with a household refrigerator in an RV... except for maybe size and power usage when boondocking unless they get a DC powered unit instead of an AC powered unit. Contrary to popular belief... most refrigerators can take the minor bouncing that occurs in RVs. And my old crate bounces pretty good!

[TXiceman]

Wink, the refrigerators made for some time now are not a sensitive to being level as the old ones. Generally if it is level enough for you to be comfortable, it will work. If it has been operated severely out of level for a period, you can damage the unit. Some times you can "burp it". take it out to where you can lay it one one side, them the top and finally back up right. Leave in each position for several hours and then up right for several hours and try it again.

DO you see any joints where there is a yellow like residue. Do you get any whiffs on ammonia?

Ken

Ken