Go Back   iRV2 Forums > RV SYSTEMS AND TECHNOLOGIES FORUMS > RV Systems & Appliances
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-26-2010, 12:20 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Pahrump, NV
Posts: 329
Residential Fridge Upgrade/Home-made latches

We recently upgraded our Norcold 1200 refrigerator with a residential unit.

The 1200 had a cooling unit failure – ammonia leak. It was not on the recall list and when contacted, Norcold was not willing to do anything other than selling us a replacement cooling unit.

What we decide to do instead was to upgrade to a residential unit – as large as we could go. We found a Samsung 21.5 cu ft fridge that would fit the width, was only slightly deeper and for which we had space (with some cabinet changes) to fit the height.

The Samsung is model number RB217ABRS. Bottom freezer with an ice-maker.

OMCC did all of the work for us – including an inverter upgrade (Xantrex 2000 MSW to a Magnum 2800 PSW), added 2 extra (and replaced the existing 2) 8D AGM batteries, re-wiring, etc. This brought us to 1,000 Amp Hours which is more than enough to get us by a full day without hook-ups or generator use.

One of the challenges was the latch to keep the doors closed while in motion. We initially started with some adhesive based fridge child locks. We didn’t want to modify the fridge so that the warranty would not be voided. These worked for about 1,000 miles of travel…at which point the door opened while underway.

What happened was two-fold – first, the adhesive gave way which was probably due to a combination of the heating coils in the doors/cabinets (auto-defrost) and vibration. Second was that the plastic catch on the latch was wearing down due to vibrations.

Rather than replacing regularly and waiting for the next failure, I fabricated my own latches. These are made from 1/8” steel, some ¾” #1/4x20 hex nuts, steel pins and 3M 5952 adhesive tape.

The latches are held onto the door & fridge side with the 3M tape on a 3” long piece of ¾” wide 1/8” steel. We selected the tape as it will tolerate the temperature fluctuations from the heating coils and has a shear strength of approximately 90 lb/cu in. Theoretically, this means that it would take 202.5 lb of force to cause the tape to fail.

Welded to the vertical is a horizontal strip. On the door side it is 1” long and on the cabinet side it is approximately 2 ½” long. The cabinet side has 2 of the hex nuts welded to it. One for storage of the pin when not latched and the other for the latch. On the door side is a single hex nut. The important thing is that the pin on the door and cabinet are aligned when this is installed. The pin is just a steel retaining pin.

Finally, I sprayed the latches (except where the adhesive tape would go) with a couple of coats for Plastic-Coat.

While the latches are not pretty, they look fine from normal viewing (in-use) distances and certainly someone who is a better welder could do a much better job. More importantly, they work.

OMCC also extended the pedestal so that we retained the drawers below the fridge. In addition they sealed the exterior side wall vent so that dust wouldn’t be drawn in. The roof vent was retained and there is still clearance around the sides and top for air flow to meet the fridge’s requirements.





__________________

Techie is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 06-30-2010, 07:26 AM   #2
Community Moderator
 
"007"'s Avatar


 
Nor'easters Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 28,132
Good job Techie, your new fridge should work well for you.
__________________

__________________
98KSCA, 99MACA, 03 KSCA-3740- 8.1 Chev-- ALLISON Trans, now in good hands
VISIT the NEWMAR QUICK TIPS & EASYMODS 1 & 2
QUICK TIPS # 3
RV SYSTEMS & APPLIANCES & RECALLS --- TECH INFORMATION
"007" is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2011, 09:01 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Entegra Owners Club
Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 161
Techie:
I am in the process of installing a Samsung RF197ACBP which is a smaller version of only 18 cu ft. Did they remove the wheels from your unit? I am not sure how I am going to secure this unit. How is your unit secured so it does not move around?
rorr1821 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2011, 09:34 PM   #4
KIX
Senior Member
 
KIX's Avatar


 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: St. Augustine, FL
Posts: 3,580
Quote:
Originally Posted by rorr1821 View Post
Techie:
I am in the process of installing a Samsung RF197ACBP which is a smaller version of only 18 cu ft. Did they remove the wheels from your unit? I am not sure how I am going to secure this unit. How is your unit secured so it does not move around?
I'm not Techie but I did just complete the install of the Samsung RF197 and can tell you how I did it.
First there are spacers on the rear wall to define the depth the reefer will roll into the cabinet.
On the bottom the rollers are still in place. The bracket that has the leveling "foot" was removed and another bracket was fastened behind it. I fabricated the new brackets . The new bracket extends to each side of the reefer and engages the cabinet the reefer is "mounted" in. Those brackets prevent movement of the bottom of the reefer.
Across the top (over the plastic that runs between the hinges) I used an oak 1 x 4 laid flat and fastened to each side of the motorhome cabinet. That prevents any bouncing of the reefer. In the mentioned plastic piece you will see two depressions approx. 3/4" deep x 1" square. These depressions are in the plastic piece on the reefer. I glued and screwed two blocks of wood to the underside of the 1 x 4 The small blocks engage the holes in the plastic. And that prevents the top of the reefer from moving in any direction. It is very solid.
Unfortunately I can't supply any pictures that would detail my above explanation. I hope all this is of help to you.
__________________
KIX
'02 Ultimate Advantage 40J Spartan MM - Cummins ISC
2013 Jeep Rubicon JK Unlimited
KIX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2011, 06:58 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Entegra Owners Club
Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 161
Kix:
Thanks for the reply. I am trying to picture what you did on the bottom and top. Did you t attach any part of the unit to the floor? How much space do you have between the back and side walls? Did you seal off the roof vent and side vent? If I leave the roof vent open I was considering installing two computer type 120mm box fans to draw the air out.
Since we are talking about the same refrigerator I am interested in the performance and energy requirements. Do you dry camp and if so how often do you run your generator? How large is your battery bank? Do you have a modified or pure sine waver inverter?
Sorry for all the questions but appreciate what you can offer.
Thanks.

rorr1821
PS. I tried to send another version of this same message earlier and it disappeared. So if you see duplication you know why.
rorr1821 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2011, 08:14 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Tincup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Full Timers - Where ever we're parked.
Posts: 539
Techie,

Would something like this work?

http://www.mypreciouskid.com/refrigerator-lock.html

There are a lot of other catches, latches, locks for child safety in the home that might work as well.

I presume you don't do much boondocking, that reefer draws 10A at 120V which, if I did the math correct, works out to 100A at 12V. Keep an eye on the charge state of those new batteries

Nice refrigerator and installation
__________________
Paul - WA1IWH

Margaret - She who must be obeyed.
Tincup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2011, 08:58 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
wa8yxm's Avatar
 
Damon Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,022
We used to have a problem with one of the doors on our home fridge (I think the freezer door) not holding closed properly.

I got an RV door latch that screwed on at a local RV store, worked great

This is not "child proof" it is a simple snap lock and if you pull hard on the door it springs back and opens.. I don't know if it would do the job for you or not, but it was not all that expensive. And it was easy to install. Hey, found it in ONE try using Google.
RV Designer Collection H593 Refrigerator Travel Locks - Latch Style
__________________
Home is where I park it!
wa8yxm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2011, 09:48 AM   #8
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Socorro, NM (until ?)
Posts: 1,552
Our RV :: Refrigerator door lock picture by lornaschinske - Photobucket




Our RV :: Fridge door pinned shut picture by lornaschinske - Photobucket



Info at links on how it was done.
Lorna is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2011, 09:49 AM   #9
KIX
Senior Member
 
KIX's Avatar


 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: St. Augustine, FL
Posts: 3,580
Quote:
Originally Posted by rorr1821 View Post
Kix:
Thanks for the reply. I am trying to picture what you did on the bottom and top. Did you t attach any part of the unit to the floor? NO
How much space do you have between the back and side walls? Sides about 2" and back about 3". On this and other issues we talked with Samsung and they siad the limited side and rear space should not be a problem.
Did you seal off the roof vent and side vent? If I leave the roof vent open I was considering installing two computer type 120mm box fans to draw the air out.

I sealed off the bottom vent from the inside. I can still remove the access panel if needed to access plug. Roof vent left open and no fans. You should not need any mechanical air movement devices (like fans)
Since we are talking about the same refrigerator I am interested in the performance and energy requirements. Do you dry camp and if so how often do you run your generator? How large is your battery bank? Do you have a modified or pure sine waver inverter?

I used an inline amp meter and found that under normal operation it uses less than one amp. With the reefer compressor the amps rise to a little less than 2. You can turn the defrost circuit off for efficiency. WE seldom dry camp and therefore have only about 175 amp battery pack. We have a modified sine wave intverter that Samsung, again, advised was no problem. WE, so far, do not run the reefer through the inverter. My thoughts are that before bed we'll press the power cool and freeze buttons and drop the interior temps and not repoen until the AM. So far,(it's winter) it stays cold enough over night without power. I am thin king it will stay cold enough when turned off to last at least 8 hours. So generrator could be limited to maybe a couple of times a day without opening it. WE don't have kids so we can probably manage without increasing battery pack and rewiring through inverter.
Sorry for all the questions but appreciate what you can offer.

Thanks.

rorr1821
PS. I tried to send another version of this same message earlier and it disappeared. So if you see duplication you know why.
Ask any questions you want...........hope it's of help.
Added info......... The molding where the cabinet meets the sides of the reefer is actually attacked to the reefer (contact cement) rather than to the cabinet. This way the molding sill come out with the reefer should it need to be rolled out.
On the mountings....bottom.......make a bracket for each side that can bolt to the existing bolts at the bottom, front of the reefer. The bracket should engage the moho cabinet on each side so as to prevent side to side movement........also the bracket should clip behind the front of the moho cabinet to keep the reefer from rolling out of the cabinet. The blocks fastened to the moho wall BEHIND the reefer act as spacers to prevent the reefer from getting any closer to the back wall
__________________

__________________
KIX
'02 Ultimate Advantage 40J Spartan MM - Cummins ISC
2013 Jeep Rubicon JK Unlimited
KIX is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Fridge not cooling on LP Geno_86ed RV Systems & Appliances 17 12-02-2010 06:18 PM
Norcold Fridge sk8salomon RV Systems & Appliances 5 06-09-2010 05:50 AM
Fridge not working correctly tickranch RV Systems & Appliances 4 04-29-2010 07:55 AM
Norcold Fridge Not Cooling in 05 Winnie Voyage JC2 RV Systems & Appliances 8 05-03-2007 05:30 AM
OOPS! We just made a $140 mistake! Lorna Vintage RV's 3 06-04-2006 06:58 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:15 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.