Rusted Anodyzing Plug on Hot Water Heater

[kcaravelli]

Hello,

I have 2007 Escalade I recently purchased and the large plug that screws into the bottom of the hot water heater to hold the anodyzing plug is so rusted I can't seem to undo it.

Does anyone know how to get rusted plug loose. I am concerned about breaking it and then having no hot water at all.

We are fulll timers in the Seattle area and need our hot water.

We are also having some buzzing or humming sounds coming from our hot water heater and I think it is the backflow valve that needs some attention. I am going to remove it.

This rig came from Nevada so I am sure this heater has been subjected to some really mineral heavy water. I used to live there.

Thanks for your replies.

[dpaul99]

Try hot sauce (tobasco or similar) on threads and let sit then try

[C-PHartley]

If it were mine, I would try some liquid wrench or similar product sprayed on several times and let it sit overnight. Then put pressure on the rod with a socket and try hitting the wrench with a hammer to help it (like an impact wrench). Tapping sometimes does a better job of loosening things as opposed to constant brute force. Just remember righty tighty, lefty loosy.

[She and I]

You could drill a hole in it and let it drain out, then tap threads for a pepcock, tape the threads and screw it in and you now have a drain
Richard

[paz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by She and I You could drill a hole in it and let it drain out, then tap threads for a pepcock, tape the threads and screw it in and you now have a drain Richard

Then where does the anode rod go?

[paz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kcaravelli Hello, I have 2007 Escalade I recently purchased and the large plug that screws into the bottom of the hot water heater to hold the anodyzing plug is so rusted I can't seem to undo it. Does anyone know how to get rusted plug loose. I am concerned about breaking it and then having no hot water at all. We are fulll timers in the Seattle area and need our hot water. We are also having some buzzing or humming sounds coming from our hot water heater and I think it is the backflow valve that needs some attention. I am going to remove it. This rig came from Nevada so I am sure this heater has been subjected to some really mineral heavy water. I used to live there. Thanks for your replies.

I drain our water heater about every 6 months, I use Teflon tape on the plug, and I still have to use a long breaker bar to break the threads loose. Try some penetrating oil, but be prepared - it takes a fair amount of effort.

Whatever you do to try to loosen the threads, if your water heater has an electric heater, make sure it is off before you drain the tank. The electric element will only last about 30 seconds with no water in the tank. Don't ask how I know this.

[She and I]

Quote:

Originally Posted by paz Then where does the anode rod go?

My bad .Thanks paz for pointing me straight,I was thinking of drain plug, senior moment

[Ray,IN]

Penetrating oil and some tapping on the plug end usually works. Sometimes tightening the plug just a smige will break loose rust/corrosion and make removal easier. You do not need to tighten the plug much, just enough to prevent leakage. When re-installing the plug use pipe tape to make a good seal and make removal later much easier.
If the plug threads that are inside the tank are severely corroded it will probably be very difficult to remove without damaging the tank.

[Mr_D]

Quote:

Originally Posted by She and I You could drill a hole in it and let it drain out, then tap threads for a pepcock, tape the threads and screw it in and you now have a drain Richard

Never heard of a "pepcock". A peptalk is what you give to the team. I won't give a definition of the last four letter of the word here. I'd bet you mean petcock though.

[kcaravelli]

Quote:

Originally Posted by paz I drain our water heater about every 6 months, I use Teflon tape on the plug, and I still have to use a long breaker bar to break the threads loose. Try some penetrating oil, but be prepared - it takes a fair amount of effort. Whatever you do to try to loosen the threads, if your water heater has an electric heater, make sure it is off before you drain the tank. The electric element will only last about 30 seconds with no water in the tank. Don't ask how I know this.

They put a darn 1" nute on it so I can't find a socket for it and I can't get a cresent wrench on it without taking part of heater apart.
I did buy a plumbers tool with a 1 1/32 manual socket used for shower head threads. I am trying that with some leverage and the lubricants and a hammer....what idiot design this game :(
Like we all don't have something better to do...

[kcaravelli]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray,IN Penetrating oil and some tapping on the plug end usually works. Sometimes tightening the plug just a smige will break loose rust/corrosion and make removal easier. You do not need to tighten the plug much, just enough to prevent leakage. When re-installing the plug use pipe tape to make a good seal and make removal later much easier. If the plug threads that are inside the tank are severely corroded it will probably be very difficult to remove without damaging the tank.

Good point on the damage to the tank. That has been my worry all along. I am wondering how long a tank can last as full timers with this problem if I can't get it out.
I am looking into an instant hot water heater as a backup....

[kcaravelli]

Quote:

Originally Posted by She and I You could drill a hole in it and let it drain out, then tap threads for a pepcock, tape the threads and screw it in and you now have a drain Richard

Here is a very good video with the pepcock built into the anode rode. Really is a good idea. Very good instructional video on how to do maintenance on an RV heater.

I'm not sure at this point that I'm going to push the point. I can afford to buy a new heater if this anode rod does not protect the heater. It will last a good while before corrosion sets in and I will likely see evidence of that corosion first but heck money down the drain because of "poop-for-brains" engineers who don't have to work on the crap they design.....

[LadyFitz...]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kcaravelli They put a darn 1" nute on it so I can't find a socket for it and I can't get a cresent wrench on it without taking part of heater apart. I did buy a plumbers tool with a 1 1/32 manual socket used for shower head threads. I am trying that with some leverage and the lubricants and a hammer....what idiot design this game :( Like we all don't have something better to do...

There is nothing wrong with the design; it's just your tools. Before you do anything else, GET THE CORRECT TOOLS! Trying to remove it with an adjustable wrench or an oversize socket will probably round off the corners of the head and then you will have the devil to pay to get it out. Any hardware store or home center will have 1" sockets for a reasonable price. I strongly suggest using a 1/2" drive, six point 1" socket.

The anode rod is an item that will have to be replaced from time to time so you may as well invest in the correct tools. They will be far cheaper than paying an RV tech $100/hr or more to get it out after you mess up the head.

[kcaravelli]

Quote:

Originally Posted by LadyFitz... There is nothing wrong with the design; it's just your tools. Before you do anything else, GET THE CORRECT TOOLS! Trying to remove it with an adjustable wrench or an oversize socket will probably round off the corners of the head and then you will have the devil to pay to get it out. Any hardware store or home center will have 1" sockets for a reasonable price. I strongly suggest using a 1/2" drive, six point 1" socket. The anode rod is an item that will have to be replaced from time to time so you may as well invest in the correct tools. They will be far cheaper than paying an RV tech $100/hr or more to get it out after you mess up the head.

Thanks, I will take your advice. I went to Ace Hardware and no 1" socket.
I went to Home Depot and no 1" socket.

I wil check around again, this thing is a bitch.