Community Forums

mxbmx930 · 11-26-2008, 02:01 PM

slowly but surely i am solving my new rv issues. The one i found recently on my first actually trip was the batteries. Now I have 2 brand new 12 volt batteries hooked up, nothing special,just 2 deep cycle marine/rv batteries from advanced auto.

Well these thing go from close to full charge to dead enough where the generator won't start and the lights will barely turn on in basically one day or less, every time i come back or wake up from sleeping i have to start the car to turn the generator on. And I am not running hardly anything, in fact during the day i am outside with aboslutely nothing on but maybe my water pump and heater(gas).

Any ideas? thanks.

mxbmx930 · 11-26-2008, 02:01 PM

slowly but surely i am solving my new rv issues. The one i found recently on my first actually trip was the batteries. Now I have 2 brand new 12 volt batteries hooked up, nothing special,just 2 deep cycle marine/rv batteries from advanced auto.

Well these thing go from close to full charge to dead enough where the generator won't start and the lights will barely turn on in basically one day or less, every time i come back or wake up from sleeping i have to start the car to turn the generator on. And I am not running hardly anything, in fact during the day i am outside with aboslutely nothing on but maybe my water pump and heater(gas).

Any ideas? thanks.

GaryKD · 11-26-2008, 02:24 PM

Hi mxbmx930,
Can you provide some additional information?
1. Are the batteries wet (need to check the water) or sealed style.
2. How are you measuring the state of the batteries?
3. Do you have a meter that will measure DC volts and DC AMPS (current draw).
4. The RV gas furnace fan will draw batteries down rather quickly. How much does the furnace run over a one day period?
5. Do you have an inverter? If so what size is it (the output in watts)?
6. Can you tell us the make model and year of the RV?
7. Do you have a propane gas detector?
thanks

FLYTYER · 11-26-2008, 02:51 PM

We are happy to read that you are solving problems with your RV.

House battery problems seems to plague many of us from time to time, but can be solved.

We really need some extra info to help as GaryKD suggested.

In the meantime I suggest you check out the info posted at the top of this forums starting page. Click HERE

Also further down the posts on this forum you will find several topics related to your troubles that may help. Check them out, but do not hesitate to comeback and ask questions.

Hurry back !!

mxbmx930 · 11-27-2008, 06:43 PM

thanks guys. this website has been a lifesaver. I will answer the best I can right now.

1) I am not exactly sure. this is the batteries i have. click here

2) I am just looking at the panel monitor, it shows 10, 11, and 12 volt increments.

3)I dont have a meter

4)The furnace would run during the night on and off for about 8 hours.

5) I do not think i have an inverter, I have not installed one and i don't think it came with one.

6)I have a 2007 four winds fun mover

7)As far as i know i do not have a propane gas detector.

I am still learning about this motorhome, i had a class A gas rv for a long time and this one is kind of new.

GaryKD · 11-28-2008, 09:53 AM

Hi mxbmx930,
If the coach is under warranty, take it back to the dealer.

If the coach is not under warranty you'll need to purchase some tools and do some diagnostics or pay to have someone do it for you.
The following is not necessarily in a logical sequence. It is in a sequence that provides the easy fix first.

1a. Wear eye protection for this step. Look at the tops of your batteries. Are their caps one can take off? If so, take off the caps and see if you can see water. Fill with distilled water so the level is at the bottom of the cap extension (down inside the battery).

1b. If there are no caps to take off, proceed with step 2.

2. Ensure the batteries are fully charged.

3. Mark the wires as to the battery post they go on. Drawing a diagram might be helpful. When removing the positive cables, wrap the cable end with electrical tape. Take the fully charged battereis to the auto parts store of your choice and have the batteries tested, under load. The store should have a machine that will do this.

If the batteries test bad, you know what comes next. My recommendation is to consider purchasing AGM technology batteries. They are more expensive, but maintenance free and should last a long time.

If the batteries test good, proceed with the next step.

4. Purchase a meter (Lowes or Home Depost or an auto parts store) that will measure 12V DC, 110V AC and current draw (AMPS).

5. With the batteries out of the coach and fully charged, take a meter reading accross the +/- terminals. The reading should be 12.6VDC or higher.

6. Let the batteries sit for 5 days (sitting on wood or plastic). Take another reading. The reading should be 12.5 VDC or higher. If the reading is lower than 12.5VDC take the batteries to another store and have them checked again. There is something wrong inside the batteries.

7. With the batteries reinstalled in the coach, make sure they are fully charged.

8. Disconnect the coach from shore power. With a meter, determine the voltage accross the + and - terminals.

9. If there is a coach disconnect (store) switch, turn it off.

10. Turn off the propane and the propane detector. You should have one on an 07 coach.

11. Turn off the inverter, if you have one. The Four Winds web site shows the inverter as optional.

11b. Take a current (AMPS) reading on the coach batteries. It should be 0. If you get a current draw, the draw must be found.

12. If you get a current reading, pull one 12 VDC fuse at a time until the reading lowers or goes to 0. That circuit is the one with the battery draining draw on it. The rest of the diagnostics is coach specific. The circuit should be labeled and you will need to determine what the offending appliance is.

13. The bottom line is if the batteries hold a charge outside the coach, but not when connected to the coach, there is a drain on the batteries that must be found.

Consider purchasing a meter. When owning a coach, it will come in handy. If your batteries have caps to add water, consider purchasing a hydrometer. You can check each cell without taking the batteries out of the coach.

lawdude · 11-28-2008, 10:35 AM

GaaryKD

re: #4. I would not recommend (Lowes or Home Depot or RadShk or any general purpose place for a 'good' meter. Especially one to read current. Such meters are not cheap if you expect accuracy and repeatability. I recommend a Sears "Clamp-On" VOlt-Ohm-Ammeter available for under $100 as the minimum acceptable tester. It will pay for itself over time.

And, BTW, moden coaches will always show some small current draw due to the various electronics, clockradio, entertainment center, engine computers, TV memories, refrig, etc. Total in my coach of nearly 1/2 amp. on the coach and ~same on engine batt.

GaryKD · 11-28-2008, 11:28 AM

lawdude,
We have difference experiences. I got my meter at Lowes. It has been checked against a licensed electrictians' meter on several different occasions. My meter matched VDC and AMPS draw to the elcetricians' meter each and every time it was compared. This is over several years. I am sorry you have not had good experiences purchasing meter's from these stores.

When my coach store switch is in the off position, there is no (0) drain on my coach batteries. Every coach I have ever worked on is the same. Not every coach has a store switch. Those that do, for me, have always read 0 draw, when in the store position.

lawdude · 11-28-2008, 11:44 AM

Hi Gary,

I misunderstood. Yes, in the "Store" position,, the coach battery should show "0" draw, but the engine batt will still have a slight draw. If you got your meter there it must have been a good one. Most I have seen at these type of stores are the $9.95 indicator types and my experience is they are marginal, at best.

In fact, I would recomment anyone check any meter, whether digital or analog with a known quality unit to verify.

I was in charge of the "Calibration Lab" for major medical implant manufacturer and we had to verify every piece of test equipment on a regular basis.

Gary RVRoamer · 11-29-2008, 04:53 AM

mxb's problem occurs when using the RV, not while storing it. He said his battery bank runs down in a day of USE. So the question is, what is he using that consumes a fairly large amount of amp-hours. The battery he bought is a Group 27 with decent specs (175 minute Reserve Capacity), but a day and/or night of using the furnace will suck them down pretty well. The furnace heat may be gas, but the furnace fan is power hungry!

We also need to know more about his charging system. . If the batteries don't start out at 100% charge, they are going to die quickly. And I suspect that he is recharging via the generator most days and most people don't leave the genset on long enough to get anywhere near full charge. Or even 80%. You can charge to 80% in several hours (depends on charger), but it takes a long time to get to 100%. If he stops the genset when his gauge lights show 12v, I'll bet the battery bank is around 50% charged. That's not enough for another day & night of use.

mbx: You definitely have a propane detector. RVIA standards require it and Four Winds coaches all carry the RVIA seal. Look down near the floor in or near the galley area.

JWatkins · 11-29-2008, 09:30 AM

Just for waht it is worth, I had the same issue and traced it to one of my storage bay lights being on even when the door was securly closed. Drove me nuts until I saw a little light one night. Turned them off with teh master switch and no more issue. It can be as simple as that.
Joe

mxbmx930 · 11-30-2008, 07:45 AM

This is a lot of great info. Where I was staying I had no hook up monday thru saturday and that's when the problem began. I did start trying to leave the generator on longer during the day and that seemed to help. Another thing that was weird was the last day when i went to leave i had enough battery to close the slides but then the thing wouldn't start, so i used the emergency start button and it started up, and then was fine and started no problem after that.

I think I will check the lights in the compartments like jwatkins said. Any thing else I can do? Should I look at some better batteries or adding a third one if i have room?

As far as a charger/inverter goes I was looking around, what should i look for as far as watts, brands, other features? thanks guys.

RV Wizard · 11-30-2008, 11:38 PM

You have to first make a decision on how much boondocking you will do and how much power you will use on an average day; in the winter it will be higher to run the furnace. Once you have this, you need to find out how many and what size battery bank you can have. Then you can decide on the size charger and cable needed to support it. Here are some links that may help. Good luck and keep us posted.
http://www.usbattery.com/care.htm
http://www.dcbattery.com/faq.html#1
http://www.windsun.com/Batteri...m#Battery%20Charging
http://www.rvsolarelectric.com/sources.htm
http://www.batteryfaq.org

mxbmx930 · 12-02-2008, 06:32 AM

Okay, I am thinking I don't need anything to crazy, just will run the tv and dvd, wall sockets for charging computers and stuff. Maybe a microwave but that's not a big deal I just need to stay under 500 bucks. I was looking at these options.

Xantrex Freedom HF 1000, or the freedom hf 1800 model.

I also found a used heart interface freedom 10 1000 and a 2500 for a good price.

Are these good and enough power or would you have any other suggestions? thanks.