rv refer to commerical

[zgary]

Has anyone replaced rv refrigerator with commercial type. I have a Norcold 1200 series with cooling leak, cost to fix over $2000.00. Im thinking about replacing with 16 cubic foot top freezer unit. My motorhome 2006 American Tradition with a 2500 watt inverter. I do not dry camp, and normally drive no more than 5 hrs per day. This unit will fit through door (25" w/o doors) installed. What other problem might I encounter? I will have a cabinet maker trim the unit in, once installed. Gas connection will be sealed and dc connection will be terminated. Can the vent sys remain without modification?

[GOLDWINGER2]

I installed a home type unit in my two previous MH's with the mods that you mentioned, everything worked fine.
J

[paz]

Hi zgary, welcome to iRV2.

Getting the new fridge in is the biggest problem. For the bigger ones, you sometimes have to remove a side window or the windshield. Since you found a model that fits through the door, your biggest problem will be rebuilding the cabinet to fit the new fridge.

The only problem I have heard with residential refrigerators is some of them don't like the modified sine wave put out by some inverters. If you just use your RV for shorter trips, you may be able to cool the fridge down ahead of time and just turn it off while you're on the road. If you want to run it while on the road, you may want to consider installing a separate pure sine wave inverter just to power the fridge. You may also want to install a couple of additional batteries.

[GOLDWINGER2]

I used a Coleman 400 watt inverter, bought it at Pep Boys.
J

[RV Wizard]

You will need to seal up the vent if you don't want drafts entering coach. You will also need to secure the unit and doors for traveling.

[Ernie Ekberg]

when my old refer decided to give off its last odor- I replaced it with a house type. Fit perfectly. Secured the unit to the floor from the outside vent cover. I use a bungee and have been very pleased for 6 years.

[az bound]

The first thing to check is wheather the inverter is PSW or MSW. If it is PSW any refer can be used. If its MSW the refer will have to be compatable. A quality residential refer should hold for at least 12hr. without any problem.

[movin-on]

Just use your generator every so often while driving...It needs the exercise...

[JoeT]

I have a friend who replaced his Norcold with a residential refrigerator. He kept the original 2,000 watt inverter and did not add any more batteries. He doesn't dry camp much. He has had no problems and likes it. The fridge stays cold enough while traveling he doesn't have to run the generator between hookups.

On edit: His refrigerator is not connected to his inverter.

[Techie]

We did...you can find the details on my BLOG (link in my signature).

[Ken M]

Has any body winterized the ice maker on a household fridge.

[RV Wizard]

See your thread.

[SSteve]

zgary,

What is the make/model of the fridge you found? I'm thinking of doing the same. If I take the door off, I can get that model in too.

I figure with a reasonable day's drive, the fridge will keep plenty cold without worrying about running it off the inverter and, as has already been pointed out, I can run the generator for those times I get concerned about it. Once cooled down in normal circumstances, a fridge probably only runs 10-15 mins per hour anyway, so I'm not concerned about providing it with full-time power.

As far as the vent issue, I would MOSTLY close them up, but since the fridge is moving heat from the inside of the box to the outside, I'd still want a little ventilation to get some of that heat outside the coach. I don't think much would be required since there will no longer be the need to vent burned propane fumes. Maybe use the fans from the Norcold on the vents to push the heat out and block off the rest of the openings.

Steve