Go Back   iRV2 Forums > RV SYSTEMS AND TECHNOLOGIES FORUMS > RV Systems & Appliances
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-02-2017, 02:48 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 9
Exclamation RV Slide Opened Itself While Driving!

The immediate issue is over, but could use some help figuring it out. As the title says, I had the main slideout open itself while driving down the interstate at 65 mph. Luckily, I was able to address the situation safely.

But, I'm in the process of debugging and could use some outside assistance to help me fill in some gaps here.

Over the weekend, we experienced some cold weather. I mean, Floridian cold weather, so go figure. But, it did get into the mid-30's. Only mention it because it is one thing which was different that could have affected the slide out control module. I don't know.

When leaving campground, the slide wouldn't move. I ran the engine for a few minutes then re-tried and was able to get it in.

Next stop, experienced strange issue where the switch for the rear slideout would move the FRONT slideout. After some head scratching, I uplugged the control board and re-plugged it and was able to extend the rear slide. Then, when leaving, it all worked OK.

Then, on the way home on the interstate, the main slide motor engaged and extended the slide while traveling. Made for some real drama. Also observed was that the house battery was bulged and hot and smoking a bit. NOT GOOD.

So, unplugged it immediately. Used another battery to suck the slide in on the side of the road then drove back with everything unplugged.

This morning, I replaced the defective battery.

I've also just ordered a new slide out control board. It is located right in the battery compartment and looks to be a simple swap out job. Will do that once I get it in the mail.

But, there's some knowledge gaps I can't figure out here...

(1) How did the slide extend despite the built in ignition safety? There's not supposed to be power to the motors when the main engine is running. Yet, it happened. If the circuitry for that is on the control board, then I guess it'll get replaced. But, that seems like a fragile safety system! One little relay or something goes bad and the slide could just extend like that while traveling?! That makes me nervous because it was so unpredictable.

(2) Could any of this fry my battery? It seems unrelated, but wow, that's some interesting timing.

In terms of info, this is all electric slide (no hydraulics). It is a 2002 Holiday Rambler Vacationer. 2 slides. W22 chassis, for what it's worth.
__________________

__________________
drisley is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 01-02-2017, 03:06 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
RCCFleetwood's Avatar
 
Nor'easters Club
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Vermont
Posts: 230
I don't have an electric slide, or the same model as you, but it almost sounds to me like some kind of electrical short. That might explain the battery getting fried. You might want to try to find out if that's the case before you fry the new one.
__________________

__________________
Ray & Julie
'97 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 34', and lovin' it!
Vermont, USA
RCCFleetwood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2017, 03:14 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
RVThere's Avatar
 
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Florida Keys
Posts: 2,161
Interesting dilemma. I've had awnings pop out when driving but never the slide!

Regarding your #1, on my coach, the safety switch is tied into the transmission being in gear, NOT the engine running. If fact, many times I have to start the engine to ensure I have the amps to pull in the slide out.

To theorize about what would need to fail, at the same time, if it were NOT the control board:
- extend/retract switch pressed on extend
- trans/engine safety switch reading Park

So it's unlikely that those two inputs failed - more likely the control board shorted in such a way to open the slide AND suck a ton of amps from your battery. Before you connect the new control board, you should test the inputs with a multimeter to make sure there is not a short.

Good luck!
__________________
Tom and Katharine
'07 Winnebago Tour 40TD, 400hp Cummins
'17 Winnebago View 24V, '02 R-Vision B+
RVing for 19 years & 150,000+ miles
RVThere is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2017, 03:21 PM   #4
Just south of Twin Cities
 
Cooperhawk's Avatar


 
Winnebago Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: 5 miles south of Lakeville, Mn
Posts: 1,527
Could get pretty scary. Last March we were crossing the Cumberland Gap on I70 in a blizzard when we came up on a coach with both slides out. He was running on the shoulder but stuck out into traffic, and only going about 30 mph. Traffic was moving a lot faster and the vis was not good at all. I wonder if they came out while on the road?

I wonder if he made it over the mountain?
__________________
Retired FAA ATC,
VFW AL, VVA, NRA
2002 Journey DL 36, 3126 Cat 330hp
2015 Ford Explorer Blue Ox tow bar, AF1
Cooperhawk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2017, 03:30 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
f14av8r's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tampa Area (sometimes!)
Posts: 388
I think Mr. RVTHERE pretty much nailed this one. I'd like to add this about running your slides. Out of spec voltage is the enemy of most electronics. Running your electric slides on the battery alone is an unwise practice. You'll almost always be providing your electronics and motors with lower than optimal voltage. I try to always have the chassis alternator online when moving my slides. And, at least on my coach, there is a significant delay after engine start before the alternator comes online. After start, I wait until the voltmeter jump from 12.X volts to 13.X and then I know the alternator is online providing plenty of amps and rock solid voltage for my slides. Then and only then do I move those big heavy suckers around!
__________________
Randy and Tina & pups: Cinnamon, Cookie & Coco
2010 Winnebago Journey 34Y
Freightliner / Cummins 340hp ISB
f14av8r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2017, 04:01 PM   #6
Junior Member
 
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by RVThere View Post
So it's unlikely that those two inputs failed - more likely the control board shorted in such a way to open the slide AND suck a ton of amps from your battery. Before you connect the new control board, you should test the inputs with a multimeter to make sure there is not a short.
OK, I'm a little ignorant on this kind of thing, and currently working on getting a crash course. But...

How do I test the inputs with the multimeter?

At the control board, there is a big wad of wires attached to a plug, and that plug goes into the receptacle on the control board. The wires are wrapped up in a plastic hose, and I don't know what color wire in there does what.

So, how would I test for a short?
__________________
drisley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2017, 04:05 PM   #7
Junior Member
 
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by f14av8r View Post
I think Mr. RVTHERE pretty much nailed this one. I'd like to add this about running your slides. Out of spec voltage is the enemy of most electronics. Running your electric slides on the battery alone is an unwise practice. You'll almost always be providing your electronics and motors with lower than optimal voltage. I try to always have the chassis alternator online when moving my slides. And, at least on my coach, there is a significant delay after engine start before the alternator comes online. After start, I wait until the voltmeter jump from 12.X volts to 13.X and then I know the alternator is online providing plenty of amps and rock solid voltage for my slides. Then and only then do I move those big heavy suckers around!
I can't do that because of the ignition relay switch. My rig is designed so that the slides can't move if the engine is running.

Hence my confusion because that' exactly what the heck happened.
__________________
drisley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2017, 04:22 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
RVThere's Avatar
 
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Florida Keys
Posts: 2,161
Quote:
Originally Posted by drisley View Post
OK, I'm a little ignorant on this kind of thing, and currently working on getting a crash course. But...

How do I test the inputs with the multimeter?

At the control board, there is a big wad of wires attached to a plug, and that plug goes into the receptacle on the control board. The wires are wrapped up in a plastic hose, and I don't know what color wire in there does what.

So, how would I test for a short?
Sometimes (like on my Norcold refrig circuit board) there are letters on the board like '12v' or 'GND' which you can associate with a wire/connection on the harness to test for a short.

Other times, I've been blessed with a wiring diagram which provides a hint as to what should be hot or not. You'll usually find a diagram label on the access cover if it's there. My basement AC unit had one like that.

Strange that you have the engine safety switch and not a transmission safety switch. Have you tried running the generator when moving the slides to make sure you have the amps you need?
__________________
Tom and Katharine
'07 Winnebago Tour 40TD, 400hp Cummins
'17 Winnebago View 24V, '02 R-Vision B+
RVing for 19 years & 150,000+ miles
RVThere is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2017, 04:29 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
RVThere's Avatar
 
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Florida Keys
Posts: 2,161
Here's a video that may help show you what to look for:

https://youtu.be/WJrAvBf2DS8
__________________
Tom and Katharine
'07 Winnebago Tour 40TD, 400hp Cummins
'17 Winnebago View 24V, '02 R-Vision B+
RVing for 19 years & 150,000+ miles
RVThere is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2017, 06:10 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
wa8yxm's Avatar
 
Damon Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 22,628
There are multiple types of slide outs
Hydraulic. Normally the valves are CLOSED when the slide is not supposed to move.

Gear driven, Sweintek or rack and pinion Power Gear.. An electric brake on the motor can fail, or you might have manually released it

Cable cars (Accu-Slide)

On mine there is a lock bar that makes SURE it does not extend without permission.
__________________
Home is where I park it!
wa8yxm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2017, 07:14 PM   #11
Junior Member
 
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 9
It isn't a power issue. With all the wonkiness, it's pretty clearly defective circuity and/or a short.
__________________
David, from Tampa Bay, FL
2002 Holiday Rambler Vacationer 36', W22 Chassis
2012 CR-V
drisley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2017, 02:00 PM   #12
Junior Member
 
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 9
To follow up on this, I replaced the slide-out control board today and everything seems to work just fine now. Also replaced the house battery, which was clearly messed up and in the same compartment. But, everything back to normal except for the slideout trim piece that got ripped off by the driver seat. :/ So, will need to re-attach.

Still not comforting that an electrical issue caused the slide out to bypass the ignition safety like that and open while driving.
__________________

__________________
David, from Tampa Bay, FL
2002 Holiday Rambler Vacationer 36', W22 Chassis
2012 CR-V
drisley is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
slide



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Is this just our RV? No sound on TV while running Generator while driving? vanbuskirk Technology: Internet, TV, Satellite, Cell Phones, etc. 5 09-06-2016 02:52 PM
Bounder: 2001 Bounder 31W Living Room Slide Opened during driving Mxg286 Fleetwood Products Owner's Forum 2 08-24-2016 04:29 AM
Opened awning while driving I-75 RVnewbe Class A Motorhome Discussions 106 09-17-2014 12:30 AM
Opened Up a Can of NASA Worms! DriVer Just Conversation 15 07-30-2007 06:32 PM
And the heavens opened ... King Salami Toy Haulers Discussion 24 05-15-2005 04:39 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:29 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.