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10-26-2011, 05:22 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Moncton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 178
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Had anybody done an upgrade of their RV thermostat. The original units are not accurate and you are either cold or hot. The cold would not be a problem but my arm-strong heater doesn't work like it used to. LOL
Anyway what thermostat have you used? Was it a difficult upgrade? Any advice or instructions would be a big help. I have purchased a Honeywell electronic unit that is for heat and AC. I hope I didn't make a mistake. It can be returned if necessary.
This Forum Is Awesome!!!!!
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10-26-2011, 08:12 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Akibase
Had anybody done an upgrade of their RV thermostat. The original units are not accurate and you are either cold or hot. The cold would not be a problem but my arm-strong heater doesn't work like it used to. LOL
Anyway what thermostat have you used? Was it a difficult upgrade? Any advice or instructions would be a big help. I have purchased a Honeywell electronic unit that is for heat and AC. I hope I didn't make a mistake. It can be returned if necessary.
This Forum Is Awesome!!!!!
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I just replaced my analog thermostats with a digital. I have three analog thermostats, bedroom, bathroom and salon. The bedroom and salon units control both heat and AC. The bathroom only controls heat. The ACs and thermostats are Duo Therm (Dometic), my heating system is AquaHot. The thermostats I bought are Dometic Single Zone LCD. I bought 2 kits to replace the dual function units. Each contains a control kit and a SZLCD cool/furnace tstat. The control kit replaces the existing one in the AC. Everything you need comes with the kit except how to hook it up. The kit part number is 3313189.000 so you can get installation instructions from the Dometic web site. This particular model will work for a gas furnace or AquaHot and AC series 540, 4579, 4595 and 640. If you have something different, then contact Dometic.
I did not buy my kits from Dometic, don't know if they will sell directly to an end user or not, give it a try. My kits, from a dealer, cost $87 each plus shipping. One last comment, If the tstats you bought are five wire, they probably will not work, it takes six wires. Good luck.
Jim E
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10-26-2011, 08:28 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Johnstown, Colorado
Posts: 11
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I just replaced the analog t-stat that had a 10 to 12 degree tempature swing. Now have a Hunter auto changeover digital t-stat. Make sure you mark or make notes of which wirs is on what terminal before removing old stat. I origonally hooked both of the fan wires (low and high) to the new fan terminal, but have plans to install a switch in the high fan wire so I can run the fan on low when I want.
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10-27-2011, 06:29 AM
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#4
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Member
Coastal Campers Florida Cooters Club
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Tampa, Fl.
Posts: 94
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Here is a good write up about replacing your Tstat. I followed it and the guy is right on.
Hunter 4299B Digital Thermostat RV Installation
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2010 Ford F-250 Super Duty Diesel 4 x 4
2010 Montana Mountaineer 324RLQ
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10-27-2011, 11:42 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Napa, California
Posts: 34
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i replaced the cheap Dometic one with a Honeywell. only thing i didn't do, was install a toggle switch for the fan speed.
i just hooked up the fan speed to low. i rarely ever need high. you can hook it to high if you prefer that or install a toggle switch to be able to use both.
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10-29-2011, 07:55 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Columbus, MS
Posts: 1,902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nosticks
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This is the one to go with. Mine keeps my temp within 1 degree of the set temp!
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Joe & Annette
2002 Monaco Windsor 40PST
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11-08-2011, 09:23 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Skagit Valley Washington
Posts: 10
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I just replaced mine with a honeywell from walmart. Easy upgrade none of the wires were labeled but there were only two wires. One for power the other to the furnace. It is super easy and a good upgrade. I dont have ac either.
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11-10-2011, 06:35 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 28
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I replaced the cheesy Coleman Mach thermostat with a White Rodgers model. I was able to get the AC to work and not the furnace. The wires and connections were easy for the AC portion, but I just cannot figure this out. There is a connection on the thermostat for a G wire. No idea if that is Grey or Green. Just frustrating and cold here  Any ideas? I looked for the wiring connections for my 1f87r875. But this comes up as 1f87-875, also. And I don't see the exact info for that G wire................
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11-10-2011, 06:51 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 78
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I replaced my Coleman Mach with the Hunter several years ago. Works like a champ.
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Same on used in motorhome
11-12-2011, 02:28 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wackymac
I replaced my Coleman Mach with the Hunter several years ago. Works like a champ.
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I want to use my same thermostat that was used in my motorhome. I used a Honeywell that I took out of my house when it sold and that worked perfectly fine in my MH. When I got my 5th wheel, I got this White Rodgers unit that worked fine for the summertime when AC was needed, but I just cannot figure out the heating portion. Since this was $85.00, I plan to use it. Don't see a need to buy another just yet. This has six wires to it.
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11-12-2011, 10:12 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,075
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Ace_Clark,
Home thermostats are set up to share one source voltage (i.e. B+ in a RV). An RV system is typically designed such that the AC and the Furnace have their own seperate B+ source. Not sure if your White Rodgers thermostat has the same connections as shown on this pdf http://acrepairshop.com/doc_download...iguration.html however, the
Heat/cool, 5-wire, two-transformer systems version is the one for you. Only differenece is you do not use the Common post.
Jumper from RH to RC is removed
B+ from furnace connects to RH
Lead back to furnace is from W
B+ from AC connects to RC
G is for AC blower motor relay (single speed blower motor)
Y is for AC Compressor relay.
Dave
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Dave in Virginia
1978 Winnebago Chieftain
Dodge M400 - 440-3
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11-13-2011, 08:14 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 4,537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jminyard
This is the one to go with. Mine keeps my temp within 1 degree of the set temp! 
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If it is cycling too often, you can change the threshold on the Hunter and maybe some other brands by pressing the up and down buttons at the same time. 1, 2, 3, and maybe 4 °s
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2004 32' F53 National Sea Breeze 1311 - Segway X2 - Sadie, Co-Pilot & Best Friend 1800 lb, 400 HP, Corvette LS1 Powered Mid-Engine Sandrail 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD - 1994 Dodge Ram Stepside 1500
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