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Old 02-08-2016, 10:53 AM   #15
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Given the surge is occurs when the compressor starts up, i would think you should only see a surge when the unit is turned on and starts. The compressor on the RF-18 runs continually and increases speed when additional cooling is required. My RF-197 draws a maximum of 3.9 amps ( approx. 470 watts) per the sticker in the fridge - likely when starting up - so your inverter should not have a problem handling that load. The 197 is Energy Star rated and I believe the RF-18 is not - likely because of the continuously running compressor and a higher total power consumption resulting. In any event, I wouldn't expect the peak current to be different from its predecessor. Your installation looks great!
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Old 02-08-2016, 12:40 PM   #16
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I have the ice maker shut off and it's not even hooked up. We don't like potable tank water to drink or in our ice cubes. I could not find any stickers with power usage on it. I figured when it's 80 degrees outside, it'll probably work a little harder. Only time will tell with the heat. I tried running the furnace today and left the fridge doors open to force it to run. No luck. 170 was all I could muster. BobMac. Thanks. I'm happy to have it completed and glad I didn't pay someone $600 for as easy as it was.
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Old 02-09-2016, 01:13 PM   #17
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Installed the RF18 6 months ago. It draws about 1 or 2 amps. We don`t use icemaker. Have written confirmation from Samsung that it will run on MSW inverter which we have. When traveling I connect it to the inverter circuit- then switch to the normal frig receptacle when at destination. Coach has only 2 batteries so rely on alternator for source of power. Very pleased with this unit!
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:32 PM   #18
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I read your post and was thinking about it some more. I went and checked the unit again. Right in front of my nose was the label on the inside. I have attached the picture so people can see for their install. It only uses 1.1 amps max, according to the sticker. I plan only using the inverter while rolling and turning it off once we arrive. My inverter has a bypass in it, so as long as the switch is off, it'll let the shore cord power flow through it.
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soneil422 View Post
I read your post and was thinking about it some more. I went and checked the unit again. Right in front of my nose was the label on the inside. I have attached the picture so people can see for their install. It only uses 1.1 amps max, according to the sticker. I plan only using the inverter while rolling and turning it off once we arrive. My inverter has a bypass in it, so as long as the switch is off, it'll let the shore cord power flow through it.

I believe that even with your inverter turned on, when on shore power the power is passed through the inverter and the inverter is in standby. I would worry with the inverter turned off if the shore power should fail and I was gone that the refrig would not run. But it should stay cold for several hours so unless it is an extended power outage it might not even be a problem. Of course if you have AGS all bets are off.
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:59 PM   #20
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Never thought of that. I guess I'll need to find me a DC amp probe somewhere. I don't think I have the auto start. Never found a panel anywhere for it. Thanks for giving more insight.
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Old 02-15-2016, 09:33 AM   #21
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What is the best way to start up the Samsung fridge when starting a trip when not on shore power? I just installed the RF-18 and put the motorhome in a new storage area which has 20 amps for each coach. Unfortunately, the outlets are all GFCI so the fridge trips the outlet. The owner of the facility won't allow changing the outlet to Non-GFCI so I have to leave the fridge unplugged.

Should I run the generator for awhile then let the inverter take over when we take off or just let the inverter start it?
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Old 02-15-2016, 09:52 AM   #22
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I just finished the install of the RF-18 in a friends 5er. and am posting so I can track this data on power consumption.
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Old 02-15-2016, 10:14 AM   #23
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WhenI replaced my Dometic unit with the Samsung RF-217, I had 2 outles for the original fridge to plug into, on ran off the inverter and the other was directly off the main circuit breaker panel. I found a small auto transfer switch that allows me to run the frig on shore power when we have hookups and when we travel or dry camp it runs off the inverter, this is much easier than having to switch plugs around. Here's a link to the one I used.

Xantrex 808-0915 Prowatt SW Auto Transfer Switch

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Old 02-15-2016, 10:36 AM   #24
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Mocauttx50 I start our RR straight off the inverter backed by an AGS system. As an alternative I run a dedicated extension cord to the RR plug to power only that appliance.

I'm interested in why you're tripping a 20 amp plug at your storage site. Recommend you test the storage site plug with a polarity and voltage tester. If all is OK then consider plugging in the RR only through an extension cord - and if that works well start looking for other things in the coach that are causing a high amperage draw. Let us know what you learn - thanks ...
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Old 02-15-2016, 12:06 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mocauttx50 View Post
What is the best way to start up the Samsung fridge when starting a trip when not on shore power? I just installed the RF-18 and put the motorhome in a new storage area which has 20 amps for each coach. Unfortunately, the outlets are all GFCI so the fridge trips the outlet. The owner of the facility won't allow changing the outlet to Non-GFCI so I have to leave the fridge unplugged.

Should I run the generator for awhile then let the inverter take over when we take off or just let the inverter start it?
Did the GFCI start tripping after the install and not before ?

If that's the case, there could be a crossed wire to the fridge outlet or a missing ground on the inverter connection.

I suppose there could also be a problem in the fridge wiring.

Have you tried plugging the fridge directly into the GFCI outlet.
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Old 02-16-2016, 08:02 AM   #26
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Thanks for the info. The fridge worked fine after I installed it and was plugged into 50 amp non-GFCI. At the storage facility I plugged the fridge straight into another (GFCI) outlet with the same result. Another MH owner at the facility had the exact same problem with his factory installed residential fridge so I'm pretty sure it is the facility. We are leaving this morning for a few weeks so I guess I'll find out if it works when we plug in later today at our first stop.
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Old 02-16-2016, 08:36 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mocauttx50 View Post
Thanks for the info. The fridge worked fine after I installed it and was plugged into 50 amp non-GFCI. At the storage facility I plugged the fridge straight into another (GFCI) outlet with the same result. Another MH owner at the facility had the exact same problem with his factory installed residential fridge so I'm pretty sure it is the facility. We are leaving this morning for a few weeks so I guess I'll find out if it works when we plug in later today at our first stop.
It could be the combination of the fridge, the battery charger, and anything else that's drawing power, tripping the GFCI breaker. On Magnum inverters, there's a SHORE setting where you can adjust the inverter/charger to whatever shore power you have available. If you set it on 15A, it will adjust the charge rate to keep from exceeding your shore power. My inverter/charger can pull up to 22A when it goes to BULK charge.
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Old 02-16-2016, 09:00 AM   #28
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GFCI recepticals are not load protection devices. That's the job of the circuit breaker, back at the panel.

GFCIs watch for a voltage imbalance between the hot and neutral. Any imbalance means the power is going somewhere else, like a human body, so it trips.

Can you plug the MH in with the fridge unplugged ?

If you can I would think it's the fridge wiring, not the wiring in the building.

Good luck.
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